No, you can do it. There are devices to make the job easier.
For example, instead of direct connections to the heater, you can use
sooper-strong, steel-braided hoses. This greatly minimizes the effort
required to get the heater connected. Same with the gas line.
All in all, there are two water connections, one gas connection, and one
With the money you save on installation labor, you can get a better quality
product, buy a couple of wrenches you might need, the aforementioned hoses,
and still have enough left for a two-week vacation in Monaco.
I'd check the code in your area first - assuming you care about being
My grandmother had a stove replaced in her apartment in Massachusetts
and had to pay extra to have it "hard-piped" because the flex pipes
were no longer code. It may have been an local apartment-code thing, I
I will say that I have never seen a water heater installed with flex
hoses (for the gas *or* water) but my experience doesn't mean it's not
Good point. I'm in Houston. We don't even have zoning, let alone code
requirements for anything done within (or attached to) the four walls. For
example, a couple of years ago, my son and I replaced the 200-Amp
service/breaker box. That worked so well - hardly any smoke - that we
repeated the project at his house.
I did check with the city - no permits or inspections required.
Anyway, you're right. If one lives under a pokenose local government, it's
best to check with the factotums first. Else one could end up in the Gulag.
On Wed, 19 Nov 2008 06:10:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
One thing that IS required now in KW area is a temperature control
valve - mixes hot and cold to prevent outlet temp from the heater
exceding 49C (120 F) - which by the time it reaches the far end of the
house is just over luke-warm.
Another reason to DIY - the licenced plumber is not allowed to do the
install without that cranky valve.
I've seen people giving good reports of A O Smith units. I understand
that Sears/Kenmore water heaters are made by A O Smith, so any reason to
avoid Kenmore if the price is right? -- and install it myself.
home depot has better prices than sears, kenmore is just a marketing
name. sears says we want a hot water tank, stove fridge with these
features, and the manufacturer says heres the price.
sears sold the craftsman name, they are now just a licensee, kenmore
name is on the auction block, sears sold off everything non retail,
and is starved for cash because of the economic dump. they may not
A couple of years ago, we had to replace our 66-gal. electric, and the
cheapest source was Sears., $380, or at least $50 cheaper than Lowe's
and Home Depot, neither which had the product in stock.
I wonder what a real plumbing supply would have charged.
I sent this before, but I don't see it:
On 11/18/08 11:43 pm I wrote:
I've been reading various installation/operation manuals online and see
that the pipe from the T&P valve should go to a floor drain. We don't
have a floor drain in the basement utility room where the water heater
and HVAC is located; the present overflow pipe has a bucket under it.
The sump (with pump) is two rooms away. There is a wimpy little pump
that pumps the a/c condensate to the sump via a skinny plastic tube that
runs up and above the suspended ceiling.
That's true. There's also a limit to the number of bends in that
line. Mine are dumping on the floor for that reason as well, although
I have thought about just ignoring the code and piping them into the
deep sink. (I could do it easily; just not without having too many
bends.) I have a small catch container under each one; if I see any
moisture in one I will replace T&P valve immediately.
Hmm. Both of mine (I have a duplex) go up and over, then back down inside
the brick veneer. There is an exhaust pipe about 1' above the ground (with
an elbow pointing down).
Your observation does, however, make sense in that any water trapped in the
pipe may linger around the valve causing corrosion.
As an electrician when I see an electrical problem or hazard at a customer's
house I will point it out due to concerns for their safety. It doesn't
matter to me if I correct the problem or if they have someone else do it.
Two professionals gave you their opinion and you think that they just need
the business. You could wait until the water heater fails and then you will
be dealing with potential flooding, no hot water and no time to shop around
for a good price. I would start getting some quotes now and get it done.
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