An anode is a metal road that extends into the water from the top of the tank. It can keep the inside of the tank from rusting. On some tanks they are easy for a homeowner to replace. It probably needs a good electrical bond to the tank. I don't know if that precludes using teflon tape to prevent leaks.
If I contemplated replacing an anode, I'd want to know if it was likely to be needed for people on my water system, how difficult the job would be with my tank, and what was the best way to seal the joint.
When I replaced a water heater on a wood floor, I put it in a plastic tub two inches deep. That way I was able to notice leaks before the floor got wet. It also keeps the floor dry during maintenance and repair procedures. I don't know if putting your tank into a shallow tub would be too much trouble.
An anode is a sacrificial metal element, usually a rod or chain that is made of a metal that is electrochemically more active than the water heater tank (aluminum or magnesium alloys). The anode corrodes instead of the water heater tank. The rod must connect electrically to the tank so Teflon tape is not a good idea.
Most often the initial failure is a slow leak, not a violent rupture so placing the water heater in a shallow pan, even if it isn't connected to a drain is adequate if you also put a leak detector which is connected to an alarm in the pan.
Rod anodes are difficult to remove or install unless you have high ceilings. Chain anodes are best for replacements.
I've read that if there's not enough head room, you can bend an anode as you withdraw it.
How about flushing a couple of gallons from the bottom every year or so? It would remove sediment. Wouldn't increased rust be a warning to replace the anode?
The water heater with the pan is in a utility room with lots of traffic. The leaks I detected with it were at the threaded and soldered connections at the top of the tank. Because of evaporation, it might have taken months for the tub to overflow from the drippy leaks. Without the tub I would have had damage to the wood before I noticed.
I don't remember any catastrophic leaks where I have lived. Maybe it's because water pressure has been about 40 PSI. Online, I've found that some water systems specify 80 PSI while others require regulators if it's above 50.
I wonder if keeping pressure down to 40 or 50 would extend the life of plumbing and make catastrophic leaks less likely.
No, you can do it. There are devices to make the job easier.
For example, instead of direct connections to the heater, you can use sooper-strong, steel-braided hoses. This greatly minimizes the effort required to get the heater connected. Same with the gas line.
All in all, there are two water connections, one gas connection, and one blowout-valve connection.
With the money you save on installation labor, you can get a better quality product, buy a couple of wrenches you might need, the aforementioned hoses, and still have enough left for a two-week vacation in Monaco.
I've seen people giving good reports of A O Smith units. I understand that Sears/Kenmore water heaters are made by A O Smith, so any reason to avoid Kenmore if the price is right? -- and install it myself.
home depot has better prices than sears, kenmore is just a marketing name. sears says we want a hot water tank, stove fridge with these features, and the manufacturer says heres the price.
sears sold the craftsman name, they are now just a licensee, kenmore name is on the auction block, sears sold off everything non retail, and is starved for cash because of the economic dump. they may not survive
I'd check the code in your area first - assuming you care about being compliant.
My grandmother had a stove replaced in her apartment in Massachusetts and had to pay extra to have it "hard-piped" because the flex pipes were no longer code. It may have been an local apartment-code thing, I can't say.
I will say that I have never seen a water heater installed with flex hoses (for the gas *or* water) but my experience doesn't mean it's not legal.
I've been reading various installation/operation manuals online and see that the pipe from the T&P valve should go to a floor drain. We don't have a floor drain in the basement utility room where the water heater and HVAC is located; the present overflow pipe has a bucket under it. The sump (with pump) is two rooms away. There is a wimpy little pump that pumps the a/c condensate to the sump via a skinny plastic tube that runs up and above the suspended ceiling.
Catastrophic failures aren't all that unusual. Ours failed and I caught it by accident. I came in late from a trip and flushed the toilet. After hearing the water running for a while I though the toilet was doing it. After a little more investigation I found there was a helthy stream coming from the water heater. I have a family member in a nearby town and theirs failed last Sunday in the same fashion.
Good point. I'm in Houston. We don't even have zoning, let alone code requirements for anything done within (or attached to) the four walls. For example, a couple of years ago, my son and I replaced the 200-Amp service/breaker box. That worked so well - hardly any smoke - that we repeated the project at his house.
I did check with the city - no permits or inspections required.
Anyway, you're right. If one lives under a pokenose local government, it's best to check with the factotums first. Else one could end up in the Gulag.
I have an new water heater ( gas ) in my garage for a spar, because mine is 8 years old and it always seem's that it will burst or leak when u are not home. If u got 14 years out of your's, consider yourself (VERY) lucky and should go down to foxwoods and gamble, just kidding, and my advice is to replace it, and have a clear conscious when u go to bed. Good luck, henry
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D There are many boilers that are 30 years and more working perfectly and you can get spares for them. Look at the cost. When your boiler was made they probably claimed it was 80% efficent Modern ones are 90% or more efficient. But divide the running cost of the existing boiler, into the cost of the new one and you can see it will take a lifetime to save anything-if indeed you can. You can be sure these people are looking for business.
My humble opinion. You got 14 years of service from the water heater. You MIGHT be able to squeeze another year or more out of it. You have a finished basement. How much are you willing to gamble? If your tank bursts, how much damage will the water do? How much will it destroy irreplaceable items? How much inconvenience would it cost? How much of a hassle will you have with your insurance company? You are just delaying the inevitable. Replace it and go to sleep without doubts.
Some building codes require pressure regulators. I think the default setting is 50 PSI. Some codes require valves to keep water from the house from flowing back into the mains. In this case, an expansion tank can protect a water heater by reducing peak pressure.
According to the University of Illinois, water heaters last 13 years on average. Since many last only 6 or 8, many must last a lot longer. One plumber says they can easily last 20 years if routinely flushed.
I get a white bucket and connect a length of garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater. I shut off the water heater and its cold-water supply. Then I put the end of the hose into the bucket and open the drain valve.
There are two reasons I shut off the cold-water supply. First, I don't want a mess if I have trouble with the drain valve. Second, shutting off the supply valve occasionally can keep it in working order.
I turn on the supply valve to flush water from the bottom of the tank into the bucket. If it's not running clean by the time the bucket is full, I dump it and flush again. If it had much rust I'd replace the tank's anode.
Some modern water heaters don't need flushing.
Where water is hard, a water softener can make a water heater last longer.
The last time I replaced a water heater, I had to call a plumber because I didn't have a crimper or expertise for working with polybutylene pipe. He charged $100 to make a couple of connections. He was disappointed that I'd already bought the new water heater. Records show that he was the one who installed polybutylene in this house, and it was after widespread problems had come to light. I'm glad I didn't have him supply the new water heater.
My 75 gallon gas-fired AO Smith leaked at exactly the 11 year point, it gets very heavy usage. It probably would have lasted longer but we had horrible water for the first 6 years, then got municiple water. Luckily I spotted the leak while it was still a trickle, but it did cause some laminate flooring to swell in the basement by the closet door. After 14 years I'd just go ahead and replace it and rest easy. AO Smith is a good brand IMHO. My new one is a Rheem 75 gal. which the plumber had on hand (my back cant take hauling out a 75 gal myself).
I'd keep what I have until it stops working. I know of water tanks to operate for 30 years. A safety catch pan under the tank with a hooked-up drain is cheap insurance. A water-sensing alarm (about $40) is another item to consider.
"A man pretending to be a United War [sic - probably "Water"] employee gained entry to an apartment on Cator Avenue in Jersey City this afternoon and then stole $3,650 from the 91-year-old resident..."
He told the woman to hold down the toilet flush handle or the apartment would explode. While granny was running the water, the rodent ransacked her apartment.
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