Goodyear/Firestone etc over the years than I care to count. And a lot
more un-needed front end repairs, improper replacement of bearings etc
than you would ever believe.
MOST independents do better work - in many cases the tire shop
"mechanics" are not qualified - just like a lube shop.
I'd use them for an oil change, but nothing more technical than that. Many
try to sell you stuff you don't need. Some are good, many are not.
As for independents, you have to find a really good one. Some are great,
others are thieves using wrenches instead of a gun to stick you up. If you
find a good one, stick with him.
Agree on the dealer. Rare I'd take a car to one aside from warranty work.
Prices are usually the highest, but they usually have good mechanics if you
need something that is particular to the brand you are driving. My dealer,
though, does oil changes cheaper than anyone and they wash the car too. I'd
never let them to the so called xxx miles service though.
Those guys work on front ends/suspensions everyday. I've never had a
problem with the place that I use. That is why I'm saying it was a
faulty aftermarket wheel bearing and not the installer. It's a sealed
bearing that has to be pressed into placed. It's not that big of a
deal for someone that does it everyday. I would have replaced it
myself if I had the tools.
And, they ALL try to sell you stuff. They always come out with a list
of things that need to be replaced. Now, since I have been working on
my own cars for over 30 yrs now, I KNOW what NEEDS to be replaced and
what doesn't for the most part..
It's unfortunate for those that don't know what needs to be replaced
and what does and just takes their word for it. Or, for those that
can't do simple replacements themselves...like fan belts, hoses, brake
I was at a tire store just a few months ago and the guy comes out the
the customer and tells her she needs new wiper blades. Don't remember
what the cost was, but it was outrageous. I told the women to go to
Autozone, buy the blades and they would install them free of charge.
And, they ALL try to sell you stuff.
At least a dozen times in 20 years, my independent mechanic told me "You
don't need to do (whatever). Save your money." Or "Do that yourself - it's
crazy to pay me for it. Wait for spring when you can do it in your
You've never gone to a good independent mechanic.
And not all the tire-store mechs are dishonest or incompetent, either. At my
first job, my office was right across the street from a B.F.Goodrich store.
Took my wife's car in there, after she'd gotten some outrageous repair
estimates at the Firestone across the street from where *she* worked -- they
wanted to replace almost the entire front end on her car, when the only real
problem was worn-out lower ball joints. Changed out the LBJs myself, then took
the car to Goodrich for an alignment. Told the guy at Goodrich what Firestone
had told my wife; he said, quote, Aw, hell, there ain't nothin' wrong with
none of that s**t!
On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 22:22:59 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
After they have cross-threaded the filter, stripped the drain plug,
blown the crap out of the ball-joint seals with the pressure grease
gun, rounded off the corners of the differential drainplug, drained
the transaxle instead of the engine oil-pan and overfilled the engine
by 4 quarts because of it (and left the transaxle empty), put power
steering fluid in the coolant overflow, or antifreeze in the power
steering (or both), you won't use the trained monkeys even for your
next oil change.
I've seen all of the above, and a whole lot more!!!!
there were not many independents - and precious few chain shops that
could service your Toyota for much less than our shop would do it -
and we had all the right parts in stock, all the latest specifications
and service bulletins, and the factory manuals and training to boot.
There was a reason we had a retention rate of over 100% - meaning we
serviced MORE cars than we sold, based on 3 year numbers.
On 06/16/2010 08:01 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Or just the roads on which the car is driven. I had a front wheel
bearing replaced on my last company car, it literally lasted three days
before the replacement started making noise. The noise started
immediately after hitting a monster pothole on an onramp; looked like an
asphalt patch, wasn't.
Fortunately, it was replaced shortly afterwards - I didn't want to have
to explain why I needed two new wheel bearings within a couple hundred
miles of each other...
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Please point out to me where the OP said the car in question has a
internal water pump driven by the timing belt, smartass.
Everyone else in the discussion realized that we were talking about internal
water pumps. Case closed.
when the a/c clutch on my vette seized, it was either run it and have it
catch fire because the serpentine belt was being dragged over a stopped
pulley, or get it towed. that would pretty much define 'stop running'.
Need to know what kind of car to answer that question. If it is a non-
interference engine like my dad's old Pinto, the only consequence of
it breaking is that you will have to walk home. If this is an
interference engine like a newer VW 1.8T, the consequences of the belt
breaking are much more severe, as in "which is cheaper, a new engine
or a new car."
Depends on the valve design. On some vehicles it is possible to have
valve / piston interference if the valves are left open while the
piston completes it's cycle. On other engines it is not possible for
the valve and piston to colide no matter what their positions.
As you can imagine if your engine falls in the first category you can
have a whole lot of extra damage if the timing belt breaks. On a 100k
+ mileage engine it could be toast as the rest of the engine condition
might not justify that sort of repair.
It is a matter of peace of mind particularly if the engine valve is
interfering type. I am still driving '98 Honda CRV. No oil burning/leak,
no rattles, perfect 3ven compression on all cylinders, Would I replace a
car like this? No. I am on the way for 3rd belt.
First, determine if it is an interference engine. Go the the Gates Belt web
site and you can look it up. They also give the recommended change
If it is interference, change it now or you can trash the engine. If it is
no, you may be tempted to go a bit longer. Age is a factor also as rubber
does deteriorate with age.
The manual does build in a safety factor. The key is knowing just how much.
The cost of replacing now is $X.XX. The cost of waiting and having a
faileure is $XXX + cost of a tow+cost of a motel if out of town+cost of
other potential inconvenience.
If you are contemplating selling the car, a recently changed belt adds a bit
to the resale value and buyer confidence for the new guy.
FWIW,. many manufacturere state 60,000 change times.
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