Like I said - some routers can be used as an AP - nothing on the wan
If set up as a router, not an AP, they will not function without the
To use as an AP the router portion is dissabled in the setup.
Not that I know of.
And most router / switch boxes contain a third newtorking component, a
wireless access point.
BTW, the connections between components can be switched electronically (at
least in some routers). One of the devices (Linksys WRT54GS with Tomato
firmware) I use here is set up with the WAN port and AP reversed, so the
router uses a wireless WAN connection.
So what? He buys a router with a 4 or 8 port switch built in. They are
all on the same circuit board and cannot readily be serviced
separately, so for all intents and purposes they ARE the same.
Don't complicate things more than they have to be.
If you have gigabit cards on all your computers as well as on a
network printer there is an apreciable difference in speed when
dealing with large files. On the printer it won't get the paper out
any faster, but there is less delay on the computer waiting for
everything to spool out to the printer.
It is particularly noticeable if you do any video streaming from one
computer to another (media server)
Try to recognize that when you posted this:
"And even if you do (need gigabit internally), you need one or more
SWITCHES. The router is involved only for internet communication.
aren't fast enough for gigabit. "
That sure implies that a typical homeowner could buy a gigabit router
you can't connect 4 PCs to via gigabit ethernet. Or that they need
two things, a router and a switch. I don't
know about you, but if you go down to Best Buy or similar, I don't
you'd find a gigabit router that doesn't contain the switching
one that has only a single WAN port and a single LAN port.
Here's a typical example:
Netgear calls it a GIGABIT ROUTER. And nowhere do they even talk
about a switch. It has
a WAN port for the internet and 4 gigabit LAN ports. Those 4 LAN
ports handle gigabit
ethernet between the local network PCs, printer, etc connected to
Is your purpose to try to add to the discussion or just confuse
The old Netgear routers used to be pretty decent. I had an RT318 for
years before it finally died. Haven't been impressed at all with the
newer ones - the build quality seems cheap (my old one had a heavy steel
case, which admittedly is the exception rather than the rule now).
I have a Linksys WRT54GL now and love it - unlike the cheaper and far
more common WRT54G, the GL supports third-party Linux-based firmware (I
use DD-WRT, but OpenWRT and Tomato are also popular) that gives you far
more control over every aspect of the router's operation. With a
firmware upgrade, it's probably the closest you'll get in a consumer-
grade router to functionality that's usually only present in commercial-
grade ones. It's also rock-stable and reliable. However, it doesn't do
wireless-n (only -b and -g) or gigabit.
There is a well-known Windows bug that has the same symptoms you're
describing. Unfortunately, there's a number of potential fixes for the
bug - sometimes replacing the router does the trick, or updating the
network adapter drivers, or replacing the wireless card/adapter. It's
been noted on HP and Dell machines that were originally built for Vista,
but are running XP. In those cases it usually turned out to be a driver
problem. The Winsock XP Fix utility works in a lot of cases to solve the
problem (sometimes permanently, but not always). Sometimes tinkering
with your network connection settings does the trick. I had it show up
when I got a new laptop. I changed my laptop's power options so that the
wireless adapter setting was at maximum performance. That turns off the
802.11 power save mode, which took care of it, which suggested the
problem in my case was that the (old) router did not support the (newer)
802.11 power save protocol. Between that and the fact that routers are
cheap, I decided to upgrade to a new wireless-n router. I like it - much
better coverage in the back yard. The old router's signal outdoors was
greatly attenuated due to my stucco (wire mesh) house with steel doors.
GENERALLY when you get intermittent dropouts it is the router starting
to die. D-Link is quite well known for that failure mode, and it is
not uncommon with some early Netgear and Linksys stuff either.
Not sure how the Netgear and Linksys N product is.My Metgear G died in
just over a year - have had the AirLink N router over 2 years now, no
problems (touch wood).
Latest firmware? Tried dd-wrt?
I am using Netgear WNDR3700 with dd-wrt firmware. First AC adapter came
with the router is marginal. Replce it with better one. Heat is enemy,
carefully drill some holes on the case to imrpove venting. I never
experienced router dying on me by doing this two things. Currently my
router is pretty busy serving network of more than half dozen various PC
desktops, server, notebooks, iBook and WiFi printer. No problem.
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