There is still a shower pan below, or no? Or you have to consider the
entire bathroom a giant shower pan and slope everything to the shower
I have a bathroom I am remodeling where the space between the shower
edge and the closet flange is two inches less than the minimum
clearance (16") and I don't want a 4"-6" thick curb to hold up the
shower door, I was thinking this may be the solution, but may be there
are other creative ways.
Curbless showers are rather common in new construction and are commonly
called "accessible" or some such term. They don't use a conventional
shower pan from what I seen but have a waterproof membrane under the
tile. I'd also imagine that the membrane extends further than expected
and the pitch toward the drain might be just a bit steeper than normal.
Of course a sane designer would make sure that the shower head was
positioned so that a full stream couldn't be sprayed across the room.
I've been considering doing a curbless when I re-do the bathroom off of
my master bedroom but suspect that it is just too small to pull it off.
I am thinking about it for my master bath. I am already half way
through the remodeling, relocated drains, relocated supplies and I
have removed a tub so I can have a larger shower area (about 6.5' x 5'
shower with rain shower, sprays and hand showers from two walls).
Along I have been thinking I need a raised curb along the edge with a
slider shower door...
Then I saw some of these and think I have not really done anything yet
to preclude from having a curbless shower. Now, my concrete slab has
a trench in it where the shower drain all the way to the toilet drain
and new vent. If I want to put a pitch of the entire shower area (or
a bit beyond) to the drain, there is no way I can do it without taking
out more concrete and redoing the slope of the slab.
I am not sure I am explaining it right. If the slab is now level
across the entire shower area, then the only to pitch it to a drain
WITHOUT A CURB is to either redo the slab and establish a slope so on
the high side it matches the bathroom floor elevation and the low side
the drain elevation, or alternatively you raise the elevation of the
entire bathroom and keep the shower drain at the current slab
elevation. I don't see another way around it without a curb.
I wonder what the smallest curb could be, if there is a way to
"minimize" the curb appearance.
My sister was in a accessible hotel room. There was water all over the
bathroom. If you think you might need it some day then it would be a good
idea if the rest of the house is assessable. But otherwise you might hate
it. If the rest of the house has accessibility problems then why ruin a
Just the shower area has a shower pan, and this situation usually
requires a ground floor on a slab with a depressed area in the slab for
the pan. It can be done as a retrofit if you want to chip out the
concrete for the pan space.
In the past, I have done several of these for ADA compliant shower
accessability. Since then, the look has become fashionable, so I have
done several for non-ADA situations and they do look quite good.
The idea is that the shower area will have a pan and the shower floor
will be sloped to the drain. The rest of the floor might get wet, but
it can be wiped up or squeegeed into the shower area.
One thing that you need to know about these types of showers is that the
drain must be a 2" drain with two inch DWV. (Showers require this
anyway, according to code, but in a retrofit, I don't know what you are
converting from.) You don't want water backing up in the shower pan as
you have very little capacity and the lack of curb makes a stopped up
drain much more dangerous.
Perhaps for that reason, I have only seen these on a ground floor. I
have only seen them in houses on a slab, but they can be installed on
other types of foundations as well (I just haven't personally done any).
Here is an example of a fiberglass pan for this situation for
You can make this pan using any standard shower pan method. Search for
barrier free or ADA compliant pans.
Allison thanks. My shower area is about 5x7, and right now half of the
concrete slab is out since I relocated the drains...but I am not sure I want
to bust up the entire shower area then pour a thinner slab. 2" drain is not
a problem I think my new drain is 2" PVC, there wasa an old 1.5" brass drain
for tub that I took out.
How do they attach a piece of glass to the ceiling and floor and yet it
stays frameless. Does the floor and ceiling need to be "notched" to slide
the piece of glass in? or metal channels need to be installed into the
You don't pour it thinner, just deeper. Since this is a retrofit, you
would remove the concrete in the shower area, plus some of the dirt
underneath. Dowel some rebar into the existing slab, then pour your 4"
of concrete from the edges, sloped toward the drain. You only have to
be down the thickness of the tile + your pan at the edges and just
slightly lower at the drain. If you use the rubberized membrane for
your shower pan, the depth below finished floor at the edges is only
There are different ways to attach the glass, but they are not notched
into either the floor or the walls. They are seated on small hard
rubber pads and then siliconed into place. The real strength comes from
the corner brackets which allow the glass to be fastened together and to
the wall. You can see these in the second link that you supplied at the
top and bottom of the corners.
I forgot to mention that some frameless incorporate these clear channels
when the walls or floor are not straight or not flat enough to use just
silicone. You can see examples here:
In looking at these frameless glass basically "glue" at top and bottom, free
on one end and bracketed on the other...I wonder if this would be a safety
issue in case someone for example, slip on the tile and not thinking and
hold out their hands in hope of the glass panel will break their fall only
to crash through it...They need to be thick structural glass 1/2" minimum
The frameless that I have dealt with are never free on one end.
Allowances are made to somehow attach each corner, even if it
terminates in thin air, so to speak. They would attach to the
ceiling and floor.
They ARE rather thick, probably 3/8" or 1/2", and they are safety
glass. It would be difficult, but not impossible to break the
glass, IMHO. That thought has never entered my mind when dealing
with these showers, except when they are carrying them in to the
jobsite, or if they are stored onsite. Once installed, they seem
posted, it looks like
you might be able to enclose the shower with glass to the floor,
including door. The pix look
great, but I certainly can't envision a curbless shower without
something all the way around
to keep the water in. A good glass shop that does the kind of work you
posted links for
might give you some leads.
We have one walk-in, one shower/tub combo. Both formerly had aluminum
were taken out before we moved here. Our condo is about 40 y/o, and I
have clear plastic
shower curtains. Wash 'em couple times a year and convert them to
dropcloths when they
don't clean up well.
On Feb 12, 9:38 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
There are a bunch of ways to do it. There are compressible rubber
'saddles' that act as a barrier and still allow a wheelchair, or foot,
to cross over it without problems. There are products that waterproof
the entire tiled installation (a very good idea) - http://www.schluter.com /
Depending on how a particular part of the bathroom is to likely get
wet will determine how concerned you should be about waterproofing
areas outside of the shower and will determine how much of a slope you
need to build in. If you're on a slab on grade (I think you are,
right?) then waterproofing is not such a big concern, but if the
bathroom is sitting on wood framing, then you should be much more
Yes I am slab on grade. Thanks for the schluter reference I will check into
it I used their trim products before did not know they have such an
extensive product offerings. My shower area is about five by seven feet in
size, with the shower heads on the two five foot long wall, a shower door
needs to be on the seven foot opening. I was hoping I can just use a floor
to ceiling piece of glass half about 4 feet side and left the other side
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