need some plumbing help

attempting to remodel the wife's bathroom. She's always thought the toilet was too close to the shower stall wall. I'd like to move it to the left (as you face it) just a few inches.
An inspection of the pipe shows the closet bend (I think that's what it's called) that the toilet sits on goes right into a large main drain's hub with the old lead filled hub.
I have no experience with oakum and lead so am reluctant to try this on my own.
But... Can I get a pipe cutter, cut the closet bend before the 90 degree turn and use one of those sleeve and clamp devices?
Will the shock of the snapping loosen the lead and cause a leak?
Someone must have developed a simple fix for this problem.
Any suggestions besides hiring a plumber? ( I will if that's the only alternative but really can't afford one )
Please and thank you.
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FireBrick wrote:

You should be able to snap it without it loosening. "Sometimes", the cast iron is soft enough to use a good metal-cutting blade in a Sawzall.
Then use a No-Hub coupling to extend it in PVC.
Jim
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"But... Can I get a pipe cutter, cut the closet bend before the 90 degree turn and use one of those sleeve and clamp devices? "
Yes, but it's a special pipe cutter for cutting cast iron. You can rent one. It's essentially a chain with a small sharp blade at one point that gets wrapped around the pipe. You then tighten the chain until the blade causes it to snap and break.
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And most times it broke where you wanted it to.
Last time I tried to rent one of those around here the rental centers acted like I was crazy. They no longer stock or own one. Sawsall have made them obsolete. Lennox make a coarse toothed blade that will cut right through the cast iron pipe. I usually get one or two 4" pipes cut per blade. The hub may be a bit harder to cut.
Colbyt
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You can remove the old lead flange, dig out the part that is in the hub and use a rubber donut to insert the new pvc pipe into the hub. As a DIY project this will take a little more time than cutting the cast iron pipe but you avoid the risk of having the stack fall when you cut it in the wrong place.
I am not aware of a rubber connector that will allow you to connect new pipe to the existing lead flange. Those old guys were a weird size.
Post back for more info about the rubber donut if you go this route.
Colbyt
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Thanks guys the rental places around here still rent the cast iron pipe 'snappers'. Lots of old houses.
I may try the sawzall blades first as I have a Super Sawzall and that would be the easiest/cheapest.
Let you know how I make out...
Go White Sox!
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message

the shower stall wall.

just a few inches.

(I think that's what it's

large main drain's hub

reluctant to try this on my

before the 90 degree turn and

and cause a leak?

problem.
really can't afford one )

Why don't you take a look at this: http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=eljer+triangle + tank&hl=en&lr=&sa=N&tab&oi=froogler
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