Mower engine won't turn

Page 1 of 2  
I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. It appears that the crankshaft will not turn. Here is what happened and what I know so far.
I took out the mower for the first time this season. Usually the mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. After the 2nd pull I realized that my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling the rope very hard. So I tried again. The rope came out as usual, the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. So I grapped it again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out. Turns out it won't budge.
I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew out of my hand.
Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. I removed it and it seems ok. So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. Next I checked that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. It appears to work fine. When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages. However the flywheel will not turn. I still have the flywheel cup and nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for some reason.
I am very new to engine repairs. So, I could be missing something basic here. The part that has me really curious is how could the crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. Note that the mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at starting, the cord pulled normally. Since I was not feeling well, I know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. So it doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.
Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?
Thanks, Door
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Take out the plug, and turn it by the blade, is plug wet like it is flooded. Is oil level normal, to high and the float might have stuck and hydro locked it up with gas. Once I saw a motor so full of gas when the plug was removed and cord pulled gasolene shot out 10 ft out of the spark plug hole.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
ransley wrote:

He already said he tried it with the plug out and it was still locked. What part of that didn't you understand?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I read it butt head, he didnt try pulling the blade. What part of hydrolock do you comprehend, non I see.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 25 May 2009 12:49:48 -0700 (PDT), ransley

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On May 25, 10:08pm, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Sure it can, fill the crankcase.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
ransley wrote:

You can't hydrolock with the plug out.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It happens, ive seen it. A bad carb float or needle valve that doesnt close down can fill the motor crank case completely with gas.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Plug is out and is not oily or wet. Also, the blade does not turn either. I should have mentioned that. You can not turn the blade, pull the cord when fully assembled, or manually turn the flywheel or cup that attaches it to the crankshaft.
The oil is just above the fill line. So, it is about time to add more oil, but the oil is not low (as in not below the fill line).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On May 25, 2:29pm, snipped-for-privacy@whereverhomeis.net wrote:

If oil isnt overfull, and you cant move anything, something seized or broke, it may not be trashed but will be work to figure it out.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 25 May 2009 12:53:12 -0700 (PDT), ransley

a good penetrant in the plug hole might free it up. I've had badly seized engines (from rust on the rings) come free with a mixture of deisel fuel and oil of wintergreen. 1 ounce of oil of wintergreen from your local compounding pharmaist in 1 gallon of deisel will free up a lot of small engines. The stuff is poisonous so you have to sign for it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I wonder if the diesel fuel would have worked as well alone.
CRC penetrating oil and Marvel Mystery Oil used to have a little wintergreen for fragrance. It seems to me that if wintergreen freed rusty parts, most penetrating oils would have substantial amounts.
The evidence seems anecdotal. One man swears by it because he tried two penetrating oils on a rusty fastener and it didn't come loose, but it came loose after he applied wintergreen. Who's to say it wasn't the oils he applied earlier? Or maybe the wintergreen smell gave him strength!
I wonder if it has ever been tested objectively, such as 20 similarly rusty lugnuts, 10 treated with wintergreen and 10 with Liquid Wrench, then unfastened with a torque wrench.
Plants produce it as an insecticide, and the odor attracts predatory insects to eat the pests. The typical fatal dose for adults is .5 g/kg. That would be 50g, or 8 teaspoons, for a 100 kg man. The minimum lethal dose for children is .17 g/kg, or less than a teaspoon for a 20 kg child.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Oil of wintergreen acts as a "creep agent" as a vapour but it is a poison/health hazard, so will not be a large part of any consumer product

I,ve used it on several seized agricultural engines and got them loose. I've tried just deisel on other engines and didn,t get them loose. Whether diesel was tried first or not, the mix with oow got them loose. Generally takes about 3 days of sitting for a badly deized engine
it appears to work particularly well in closed areas like engine cyls. never tried it as a regular penetrating oil.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

According to a 1994 Material Safety Data Sheet, Ben Gay is 30% wintergreen oil (methyl salicylate).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Remove the spark plug. See if you can turn the engine with the blade, you have much more leverage there. Make sure you do have the engine stop disengaged. If the motor is locked up at this point, it may have a broken crank or threw the rod or its cap. Time to get another.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I'd want to take one last look at the brake (strap around the flywheel). To be certain sure. If the brake is releasing, and the mower is still locked up, then it's likely not worth fixing.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Also take a good look at the shaft above the blade and make sure there is no cord, old string, etc tangled up on it.
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Door wrote:

the crankshaft from moving either way.
I'd look for external jamming. Ignition? Drive mechanism for the wheels? If I still couldn't find a problem, I'd start removing the brake.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 25 May 2009 09:36:27 -0700 (PDT), Door

washed out the deck in 10 years, and the built-up grass deposits had dried out over the winter and flaked loose, jamming the blade tight in the deck. Tipped it over, pulled out hald a bushel of hard dried grass and it started furst pull.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Door wrote:

Someone else may have run it after you put it away and blew the engine.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.