more questions about wifi

After the previous thread, I'm interested in a set-top box... oh, that includes the roku that I asked about before on one of these groups.
Well 2 more questions:
The descriptions keep talking about HDTV. One doesn't need HD does he? It will output to SD also?
Are some of them wireless and can I expect it to stream continuously with wireless B/G? Or do I have to buy a new router with N? Remember, I don't have HiDef, and I don't expect to get it. If I buy with AC, will it still suppport B/G, which all my other devices are?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 03 Sep 2015 20:18:07 -0400, micky

And if you want to use one of these boxes with a smart-cell-phone app, that means sending data tot he phone company and getting something back?
Or is it all within the room one is sitting in?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Your TV may be the best use for a throw away XP computer. Most flat screens have a VGA input, get a wireless keyboard/mouse and you have a smarter TV that what they call one. I have had a PC hooked to my TV for at least 15 years (originally with a composite video out card) It is my music player, photo viewer and anything else you can do with a PC along with all of the internet content you want to see. If you add a TV in card, you have a DVR although capturing streams seems a bit elusive. Just about the time you get something working, the stream provider changes up.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thursday, September 3, 2015 at 7:18:10 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:

G has all the thoughput you need...I stream video (Netflix) and have a half dozen other devices working on the router. A $175 for a 32" HD TV it is pointless to view in the dark ages!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
micky wrote:

A 54G will be fine , I streamed all kinds of video and audio sometimes simultaneously . And just because HD content is available doesn't mean you have to use it - your old CRT TV will be just fine . What kind of cable are you going to use from the ROKU to your TV set ? Mine has only component and HDMI outputs ... no RF hookup . Right now I'm watching Rush Hour from a DVD in a computer - I have 4 inputs hoked up , Roku and the comp on the HDMI inputs , a DVD player on the component (yellow/red/white) and the satellite receiver on the RF input . BTW , you really should consider a newer TV , we got a 32" LED/LCD last spring and just love it . You can get a pretty nice unit for under 300 bucks , often nearer 200 if you catch a sale . Available inputs are going to be the biggest problem with older TV sets ...
--
Snag



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thursday, September 3, 2015 at 7:33:47 PM UTC-5, Terry Coombs wrote:

Terry, I can't believe you have me blocked? (I said much the same to cheapo mick)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
bob_villa wrote:

I don't ... actually I typed that and got sidetracked before hitting send . When I started there were no responses yet .
--
Snag
They say the memory is the second thing to go .
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Terry Coombs wrote:

It is not the mode whether G or N or AC. It is a matter of minimum constant download speed is needed for good media viewing. I'd say at least 5mbps and up. No one likes stuttering video/audio. I have 50/3 service from my ISP. Always I can have download speed ot 50mbps. I real time stream always.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 04 Sep 2015 00:15:01 -0600, Tony Hwang

But G is slower than N which is slower than AC, so I think the wireless too can bottleneck the signal. So I think the mode does matter. Except Terry tells me that B/G is fast enough.

--

Stumpy Strumpet
the bimbus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/4/2015 3:31 AM, micky wrote:

IMO, G isn't fast enough for me and you are correct, AC is thus far the fastest but here's how it works. If you have a G router, any other device with G/N/AC capability will only use G. If you have an N router, any device with G/N/AC will use only N and of course, if you have an AC router, any device with AC capability will use AC. If a router has AC capability but a device has max of N, it will only use N. Bottom line, BOTH devices require the same capability in order to meet the speed they advertise.
Also keep in mind, even if you have the fastest router and device, your speed will still depend on what you're paying your provider.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 3 Sep 2015 19:33:59 -0500, "Terry Coombs"

The Roku or whatever will probaby input to the DVDR, which already connects to the TVs via composite, left, and right RCA cables into a RF modulator, and from there via co-ax to all 8 tvs (with a couple of RF amps along the way.. I found that every two splitters I have to put an amp.)
There would be a possibllity of using Y-connectors and going into the RF modulator directly, but I think the first way, I can use the channel selector to select the Roku when wanted. There are "channel selectionss" for the set of jacks1, set of jacks2, and set of jacks on the front of the DVDR. And I have remote controls on all 3 floors, with transmitters that get relayed to the DVDR. Not installed but I also have a remote controlled A-B switch, but only one remote for that. I'd probably end up having to walk upstairs to change from DVDR to Roku

Right.

If I could just buy one TV with wifi and a digital tuner and all those inputs**, I'd do it, but what I need is an output to go to the other tvs in the house. If I had it to do over, I might have run left, right, and composite everywhere, but too much work for me now. What was especially hard was snaking the co-ax though the ceiling of the basement "family room". Down 6 inches and across 25 feet, to the laundry room with no ceiling. Maybe I used two snakes. But I made no provision for running more wires so it would be even harder to do more wires now than it was to do one wire the first time. I know there is wireless transmission, but then I'd need 6 or 7 receivers (I rarely use the tv in the attic these days, mostly for aiming the attic antenna.) , including one in the bathroom where there is no room, and wired is certainly reliable. I"ve had those 2 signal amps running 24/7 for 31 years without a problem. But better to have 2 power amps running. they don't use much power, than to have 6 receivers running.
**Even the big ones only have speaker outputs and maybe unamplifed sound outputs (to go to the stereo) but I only want a small TV in the bedroom where the DVDR is, and they usually don't even have speaker outputs (although they need them the most.) . In the bedroom I use the earphone jack but run it to a mechanical rheostat (mounted in a Pong remote control box), and from there to an amplifiied computer speaker. So I can control the volume with a knob instead of having to use the remote.

--

Stumpy Strumpet
the bimbus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 3 Sep 2015 21:39:23 -0700 (PDT),

Okay.

But even if the output connector is, say, only HDMI, it can still be set to output a standard definition signal, can't it? What if someone has one HD tv and another SD tv? Does that mean he can't use the expensive box?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 09/03/2015 07:18 PM, micky wrote:

Make sure the box you get has SD output. There are converters (HD to SD) but they can be expensive.

AC uses a different frequency than B/G, however all the AC devices 've seen support both frequencies. AFAIK N can use either frequency.
Always consider a WIRED connection first. It's simpler and more reliable, as well as more secure.
--
112 days until the winter celebration (Friday December 25, 2015 for 1
day).
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/3/2015 8:18 PM, micky wrote:

Check the specs of the specific model of the set-top box. Some newer ones only have HDMI outputs. Other newer ones have both HDMI and composite video.

Again, check the specs. Most newer ones are retro compatible with the older WIFI standards.
Just don't buy a set-top box without consulting the specs and you won't have an unpleasant surprise. And again, to emphasize, different models from the same manufacturer often have different specs.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Peter wrote:

To summarize, OP has to look at both ways. What you have and what you're connecting to it. Simplest is HDMI but there are converters like VGA to HDMI, component to HDMI, display port to HDMI, etc. If not carefully planned, hook up can get very messy. Easiest is get a entry level HT receiver with speaker kits in a box. Then A/V receiver becomes hub of every thing. Every thing connects to A/V and one HDMI cable to TV set.Older A/V receiver can be had for like ~100.00. You can have simple stereo set up with two speakers and start from there upto 7 speakers plus two woofers. Surround sound is nice to have. WiFi mode is downward compatible.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/6/2015 11:54 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Tony,
Not all home theater receivers provide video output in a different format than the format of the video input. My home theater is a Best Buy Insignia unit - which came with all the speakers; a unit that meets your description of "entry level HT receiver with speaker kits in a box". The receiver appears to be a re-labeled Onkyo unit. I have HDMI, component, and composite input sources connect to the HT receiver. However, I found to my surprise, consistent with the user's manual, that the receiver outputs those video sources only to the same format output jacks on the receiver. Fortunately, my HDTV has sufficient input sources of each type so I don't have a problem. In summary, my HT receiver won't output a composite or component video input signal to the HDMI output jack. If an when I ever replace my HT receiver, I'll make sure the replacement can do that. Peter
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Retirednoguilt wrote:

Your only choice is then using little converter box. 3 cable component cable/digital audio in and HDMI out. Some time ago wife won a HT in a box, LG brand in a raffle. It has HDMI o/p to HDTV. Since we did not need it, I sold it to a neighbor's kid for 100.00. I never like Onkyo receivers. Their power supply seems to be little under rated. Unit runs always too hot to my liking. I was a fan of Denon stuff. Now I moved up to Anthem receiver and all Paradigm speakers except PBS 250W 12" Woofer. When organic TV price comes down I'll upgrade TV set.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.