In an unframed doorway that leads from room A to room B, should the molding
wrap around the doorway into each room or should it stop flush with the
sides of the doorway? The doorway's drywall was unfinished at the bottom
where it meets the floor so I'm trying to find a simple yet preferred way
to fix it. Other doorways in the house have an actual door frame.
Thanks in advance for any input!
You're not helping much, here...
How does it terminate?
What I'd do is extend the existing baseboard around the wall. If it
currently is just butt-ended at the corner, I'd go back a ways and
replace it w/ a section long enough to make the outside miter around the
corner and continue it around continuously as it should have been
originally it sounds. If it's painted, one could possibly get away w/
shaping the ends of a piece to cover the butt ends, but it would be the
hard way to go about it.
If you're not up to that, I suppose a thicker blocking piece could be
fabricated to be used only on the insides of the doors. It would need
shaped ends (if only rounded over) and a top profile to make it look
like anything. Depends on the rest of the house style as to what that
should look like to fit in--old Victorian had such blocking fairly
commonly; new ranches, etc., not so much...
A common problem in this scenario is different floor levels in the
adjoining rooms, or one room is carpeted and the other is not. If the
baseboards in the room are at different levels, or are different styles,
you have to make a judgment call about how to make a transition that
doesn't look like crap. I've seen it done badly more than I have seen it
done well. It can take some real artful carving. Coping the end of the
baseboards so it looks like it returns into the wall at the corner, and
just using quarter-round shoe in the archway, can work. In the old days
of round-corner plaster, they used to sell special corner blocks to use
on outside corners. You could carve them onsite to account for
thresholds and such.
Corner blocks would work nicely for the OP too...just butt the ends of the
baseboards against the corner blocks. If the baseboards happen to be
thicker, skiny down the ends of same by routing with a cove bit.
That's my exact problem actually -- there is a 2" height difference between
the room's level and a stair step that leads into the other room. And the
stair has to have a baseboard trim around it that merges with the wall's
baseboard. Hard to explain -- maybe I should post a photo. It's a real
challenge. I don't think it will ever look great.
You'll have to miter a piece to match the difference in elevation. It
will look something like this lame piece of ASCII art:
Notice the vertical cuts are not perpendicular. They're half the angle
of the sloped piece. You can find a lot of good calculators here:
or you can search for "calculate miter angle online".
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