molding question


In an unframed doorway that leads from room A to room B, should the molding wrap around the doorway into each room or should it stop flush with the sides of the doorway? The doorway's drywall was unfinished at the bottom where it meets the floor so I'm trying to find a simple yet preferred way to fix it. Other doorways in the house have an actual door frame.
Thanks in advance for any input!
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crabshell wrote:

You mean a baseboard or shoe?
What's on the wall(s) in the room(s) to meet?
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Baseboard molding. The walls in both rooms have baseboard molding.
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crabshell wrote: ...

You're not helping much, here...
How does it terminate?
What I'd do is extend the existing baseboard around the wall. If it currently is just butt-ended at the corner, I'd go back a ways and replace it w/ a section long enough to make the outside miter around the corner and continue it around continuously as it should have been originally it sounds. If it's painted, one could possibly get away w/ shaping the ends of a piece to cover the butt ends, but it would be the hard way to go about it.
If you're not up to that, I suppose a thicker blocking piece could be fabricated to be used only on the insides of the doors. It would need shaped ends (if only rounded over) and a top profile to make it look like anything. Depends on the rest of the house style as to what that should look like to fit in--old Victorian had such blocking fairly commonly; new ranches, etc., not so much...
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crabshell wrote:

Wrap it around the edge of the opening too. Assuming there is no door :)
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dadiOH
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dadiOH wrote:

A common problem in this scenario is different floor levels in the adjoining rooms, or one room is carpeted and the other is not. If the baseboards in the room are at different levels, or are different styles, you have to make a judgment call about how to make a transition that doesn't look like crap. I've seen it done badly more than I have seen it done well. It can take some real artful carving. Coping the end of the baseboards so it looks like it returns into the wall at the corner, and just using quarter-round shoe in the archway, can work. In the old days of round-corner plaster, they used to sell special corner blocks to use on outside corners. You could carve them onsite to account for thresholds and such.
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aemeijers wrote:

Corner blocks would work nicely for the OP too...just butt the ends of the baseboards against the corner blocks. If the baseboards happen to be thicker, skiny down the ends of same by routing with a cove bit.
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That's my exact problem actually -- there is a 2" height difference between the room's level and a stair step that leads into the other room. And the stair has to have a baseboard trim around it that merges with the wall's baseboard. Hard to explain -- maybe I should post a photo. It's a real challenge. I don't think it will ever look great.
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crabshell wrote:

You'll have to miter a piece to match the difference in elevation. It will look something like this lame piece of ASCII art:
--------- + - - + ------------- + + ----- + - - + ----------------
Notice the vertical cuts are not perpendicular. They're half the angle of the sloped piece. You can find a lot of good calculators here: http://www.woodbin.com/docs/software/cutting_angles_calculators.htm or you can search for "calculate miter angle online".
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New Life Home Improvement
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If you meant basedboard and/or shoe molding wrapping around is fine. I just did one this way this week.
Colbyt
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