LED Light Bulbs now cheaper than Incandescent

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Sometime's that not easy to come by without disassembling the unit after purchase and then it might void the warranty. I guess I'll run a test with 2 bulbs in a contained environment. I am doing this mostly to avoid having to access the 48" fixture I cleverly installed in a hard-to-reach kitchen overhang above the sink. That was a much younger and more spry me. )-:

I had a cheap USB charger disintegrate as I pulled it from the wall. The case didn't come off, oddly enough. It was a little square of plastic the metal plug tines were fitted onto. They stayed in the wall with wires hanging out of the unit.
What scares me more are the cheap LiON batteries and chargers that come from China. Very poorly made with a very little safety margin (like not using a thermal sensor that touches the battery pack to detect overheating).

Sony had a big lot of inflammable laptops (or potentially so) that occasionally melted down. They blamed their battery supplier for somehow getting metal particles into the battery chemistry. I think the technical term is "battery goop." (-:

You laugh. My wife and I both survived fires that could have easily killed us had the fickle finger of fate pointed our way. Makes you really hyper when you smell that sort of non-cooking "electronics are melting" stench.
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On 8/25/2015 1:23 PM, Robert Green wrote:

Yes. Or, spending some time with a search agent looking for a "teardown" of a similar model!

Amazing how much smarter we get as we age! I'm now at a point where I spend a sh*tload of time "over-engineering" things so that they *don't* break *or* are easily replaced/repaired when they do!
E.g., I built a valve manifold (two sets of three ball valves) to allow the whole house water filter and whole house water softeners to be independently removed from the "circuit" (i.e., when you need to service/replace/remove the filter unit, you can shut off the water flowing THROUGH it and simultaneously open the bypass *around* it -- common sense).
But, that wasn't enough! What if I ever need to service one of those *valves*?? :>
So, I mounted the entire valve manifold on a pair of brass unions. If *it* needs service, I can shut off water to the house, open the two unions and then remove the entire manifold to place it somewhere EASIER to work on! (and, with less risk of torch catching the wall behind the manifold on fire!)

bare hands! :>

I'd be more worried about impurities in the actual batteries themselves! AFAICT, this is what leads to the pyrotechnic battery experience!

Yes.

One of my printers uses *solid* ink (like blocks of colored wax). It produces GORGEOUS prints! But, it's expensive to run and wasteful of ink (at startup, it "purges" itself -- wasted ink!).
When I use it, the house is permeated with the smell of "burnt crayons" (if you think hard, I'm sure you can recall smelling burnt crayons as a kid -- it's a memorable scent!).
Other pieces of kit produce similarly noxious "burnt" odors (soldering iron, laminator, etc.).
One evening, I smelled a very noticeable "burnt" smell. I ran through my "scent memory" and none of *my* burnt offerings came to mind. Instead, it smelled like *wood* (too many campfires as a Boy Scout :> ).
"Gee, that's odd! I'm not *burning* anything! Did I leave something too close to the stovetop??"
Then, happened to glance out the back window to see the sky bright orange! A house ~200 ft behind us was completely engulfed in flame.
"Ooops!"
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Ah yes. Easy-to-repair really counts for a lot these days.

Sounds nice. I am seriously thinking of doing something similar and replumbing the whole house with PEX. The cheap copper pipe that the prior owners used is now starting to show tiny pin-hole leaks.

The

the

Yep. Insanely low component count, too. I'll bet it pumped out a lot of RFI because there were no filters that I could see.

from

using a

I wonder if the metal threads reported in the Sony battery fiasco only did their evil deeds when the batteries were charging? At least there haven't been any new smoke/fire reports of incidents on the new Boeing planes. Maybe the tecnology will eventually settle down.

somehow

technical

"Battery schmutz" is also a term of art.

killed

hyper

stench.

A similar thing happened to me one very dry Fourth of July. After setting off some fireworks we noticed that same orange glow. All the brush and leaves were on fire from the Roman candles. We were beating the ground with shovels like that Pearl Buck novel "The Good Earth" when they are fighting off the locust attacks.

Yes, very.
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Hi Bobby,
On 8/25/2015 3:18 PM, Robert Green wrote:

Friends/neighbors/colleagues laugh and claim, "Now that you've put all that effort into making it easy to repair, it will NEVER BREAK!" They think this *humorous*. I, OTOH, think it a desirable asset!
"Great! If it never breaks, that's even better! If this sort of overkill would yield similar results for other things, I'd gladly adopt it EVERYWHERE!!"

Here, on a slab so no chance to change anything (at least, not for mortal wages!)
Anything that *I* plub always uses the heavier wall thickness pipe. But, I can't change the stuff already in the slab!

Yes. When designing consumer kit, every component you add is treated like unprotected sex with yet another partner: are you REALLY sure you want to do this?? :>

In *my* case, the consolation was that it wasn't *my* problem! So, not my responsibility to "address" :>
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On 8/23/2015 6:49 AM, Robert Green wrote:

These are already available -- the economical version requires rewiring the fixture to remove the ballast.
But, LED's are directional devices. The fluorescent tubes are inherently omnidirectional -- counting on any reflector to direct the light (as well as start the bulb)

In our case, the bulbs fail quickly. They just aren't intended to be cycled on and off as often as these. Turn them on for an hour at a time and they'll last much longer than turning them on for 15 seconds 10 times in that hour! :<
I prefer bringing light directly to my "task" area. E.g., inspection lamps right *at* my work area instead of overhead lights that try to cover it all.
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lamps

Agreed. I have been using swing arm clamp lamps with both a circular fluorescent and a regular bulb socket forever. Got some circular bulb magnifier units, too. As I get older, I need more directly light on the subject. I've been told that bluish colored light is better for aging eyes since the eye's tissue yellows as you age. I was disappointed to discover that a replacement "showerhead" 100 LED flashlight I bought was using yellowish LEDs instead of the blue ones. Really makes a difference for me.
--
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On 8/23/2015 11:20 PM, Robert Green wrote:

I keep a circular-fluorescent-with-A19 lamp on one side of my work area (with a 60W "Reveal" bulb installed) and a large magnifier with a halogen bulb on the other. Beneath the circular lamp, I keep a ~30X stereomicroscope for really fine work. A gooseneck camera allows anything placed in front of my middle monitor to be displayed on that monitor (effectively providing magnification). Finally, I have an autofocus camera that feeds a set of "electronic eyeglasses" so I can explore small or hard to access objects without having to keep a monitor in view. E.g., looking at the connections on the back side of a computer without having to drag the computer out from under the workbench!

Ditto. I need it to see finer detail *and* more accurately resolve fine distinctions in color.
But, I've always needed more light than most folks -- despite no pathological problems. In college, my roommate would turn off the overhead light when he came into the room during the day -- he felt the four-bay window provided adequate light. But, not for me!

I tried some *very* blue LED floodlights in the up-lights in my office. Really strong color bias! Looking at the illuminated windows from the outside of the house made the difference between these and the 'regular" lights very obvious! ("Don, what's wrong with the light in that room?")
But, they weren't bright enough so I swapped them back out.
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On 08/22/2015 11:12 PM, Don Y wrote:

It was a good sized box with a wide assortment sent to every customer via the USPS. I was already using CFL's so I asked a friend if he could use some. He could, so I readdressed the box and took it to the post office to mail it. The woman behind the counter sighed and said "I bet I can guess what that is."
This time the co-op sent out letters with a return postcard asking if you wanted the LEDs and there will only be two so the post office won't get hit with a tsunami of large, very lightweight boxes.
The co-op is a survival from the REA days and does things a little differently. Like actually giving members a dividend check. It's not a huge dividend but it's the thought that counts.
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On 8/23/2015 2:19 AM, rbowman wrote:

The thought: We over charged you, here is some of the excess monies we charged.
-------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: INSTRUCTOR'S SOLUTIONS MANUAL PDF: Linear Algebra Done Right, 2nd Ed by Sheldon Axler Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 22:11:32 -0700 (PDT) From: snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Newsgroups: alt.home.repair -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: INSTRUCTOR'S SOLUTIONS MANUAL PDF: Linear Algebra Done Right, 2nd Ed by Sheldon Axler Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 22:11:32 -0700 (PDT) From: snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
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On 08/23/2015 06:27 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Not hardly. Once upon a time there was the Montana Power Company and its rates were close to the co-ops. Then in the '90s a Republican state administration decided deregulation was a tenet of free trade capitalism that would lower rates for all. MPC promptly sold their holding to out of state interests and reinvented themselves as a telecommunications company. They were just in time to catch the dot.com bubble as it burst and filed Chapter 11 in 2003. Meanwhile the co-op locked in long term contracts with the BPA and maintained their rates with minimal increases in the last 20 years.
Small businesses and residential users had to suck it up as their MPC power bills doubled or tripled. Large companies like the aluminum smelters and paper mills that depended on inexpensive electricity shutdown, losing jobs and revenue for the state. Let's hear it for deregulation!
The governor that brought the disaster on went on to become chairman of the RNC and was Bush's butt buddy, going on to a lucrative career as a lobbyist.
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On 8/23/2015 1:59 PM, rbowman wrote:

Off the edge of my memory, I think California deregulated half the equation (supply price but not the consumer price, was it?) and the power companies all starved and went out of business.
I suspect in Montana, there wasn't really a free market. Many places have a monopoly provider, and no competition.
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On 08/24/2015 06:03 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_electricity_crisis
Enron CEO Kenneth Lay mocked the efforts by the California state government to thwart the practices of the energy wholesalers, saying, "In the final analysis, it doesn't matter what you crazy people in California do, because I got smart guys who can always figure out how to make money."
There's always someone who can figure out how to make money. Lay got lucky and died before going to jail for the rest of his life. All that money didn't do him much good.
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It was that way for most states and far worse for others. Providers created artificial blackouts forcing many state electricity providers to then buy extremely high priced juice on the spot market from companies that were fronts for the very same owners.
Where I live as soon as the production of electricity was a "for profit" enterprise rates have soared, maintenance has become the subject of Congressional hearings because it's so bad and they plague me with robot phone calls about degree days. Yeah, I bought central air just to turn it off during the hottest days of the year.
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In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 22 Aug 2015 21:02:44 -0600, rbowman

Be cafeful to screw the shower head into the shower and not a lamp. Same with the bulbs. don't screw one into the shower. .

They used to be much slower. The new ones seem pretty fast to me, 5 seconds?

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On 08/23/2015 04:35 AM, micky wrote:

Not a problem. The 'shower head' is one of those hand shower things and if it flowed any less I'd use a bucket to rinse off.
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In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 24 Aug 2015 02:52:49 -0700 (PDT), Uncle

Only my main shower, I replaced hte head when I first got here. This was 1983 so it wasn't even water-saving, I guess, but I wanted water-wasting. Well, I don't take long showers nor do I put the water on very far.

In Jordan, I'd only had showers for weeks and the hotel room had a bath, but the built-in stopper didn't work. They'd broken it on purpose to prevent people from taking baths. But I really wanted one, so I took the plastic-like wrapper from a candy bar, opened it up and put it over the drain. It worked well.

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On 8/24/2015 3:52 PM, micky wrote:

CY: Treat your self some day.... full flow shower some time.

CY: Duct tape has many uses.
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On 8/22/2015 11:02 PM, rbowman wrote:

I've also noticed the CFL come on slowly in winter. One time I needed light, and it was cold. I had a fluorescent battery lantern (which did not light) and a LED lantern which worked fine. So, maybe the LED will provide better cold weather light.
Hope this guy gets spammed, and leaves us alone: -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: INSTRUCTOR'S SOLUTIONS MANUAL PDF: Linear Algebra Done Right, 2nd Ed by Sheldon Axler Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 22:11:32 -0700 (PDT) From: snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Newsgroups: alt.home.repair -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: INSTRUCTOR'S SOLUTIONS MANUAL PDF: Linear Algebra Done Right, 2nd Ed by Sheldon Axler Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 22:11:32 -0700 (PDT) From: snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Newsgroups: alt.home.repair -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: INSTRUCTOR'S SOLUTIONS MANUAL PDF: Linear Algebra Done Right, 2nd Ed by Sheldon Axler Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 22:11:32 -0700 (PDT) From: snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
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On Tue, 25 Aug 2015 19:19:15 -0700, Don Y wrote:

In fact, this brings up a few tangentially-related problems I had installing a motion-detection switch for lighting in my garden shed.
While I was in the store buying the switch, I noticed a 3-intensity (30/70/100 incandescent equivalent) "CREE" LED bulb which I could put into a compatible standing floor lamp, liberating a not-so-compact CFL that's about equivalent to a 150 W incandescent.
At the same time, I also bought a 5 W LED for the basement stairway (50 W incandescent equivalent) to replace the 2W one (~25 W equiv) that I had always found for years to be way too dim, but at the time of its purchase brighter LEDs were way too expensive.
So I put the 2W in the peak above the top shelf, because its only function is to light a few square feet of shelf which can only be seen by using the chair I keep in the shed for exactly that purpose. The huge CFL I put centrally, installed the switch, put the fuse back in the box, and went to the shed to check everything out.
At first glance, things looked okay. Full off turns off the lights. Full on turns on the light. Auto turns on the lights. So now I had to wait (perfectly still) to see if they would turn off.
After a few minutes, I was starting to feel a bit stupid. I should have read the instructions fully BEFORE. After a few more minutes, I did, and noticed that there was a wheel one can use to adjust the on-time from 15 sec to 15 min. But more importantly, I discover that the tiny green LED on the switch is not an auto-pilot ready light, but is supposedly a motion detector indicator. It had been on full whenever the switch was put to "auto". So I shielded it a bit to see it more clearly, and yes, it unlit after a few seconds of immobility. But then came back on steady when I unblocked it. Shortly, I realized that the huge CFL itself was constantly triggering the motion detector! So, I put it in the bulb box in the basement, and replaced the 75W (equiv) LED that I had removed at the start of my job. Problem (one) solved.
Problem two is that when the timeout had expired, and the lights are all supposed to turn off, the 75Weqv and 25Weqv LEDs both turned off as expected, but the 3 other LEDs (~40W equivalent) all on the same circuit (in parallel) stayed on. (Actually, I have a lot of high shelves in my garden shed.) They were not at full brightness, and were flickering in unison at ~10 Hz. On a lark, I unscrewed the 2W, and the flicker frequency changed to ~1 Hz. I realized that the problem was caused by a non-linear impedance in the load on the switch. After all, the circuit that performs the motion detection needs to put the electrons somewhere when it's finished with them. There is no white wire connection, so a certain amount of current needs to bleed through the load. It's not enough to light a filament lamp, but enough for a low power LED.
So I replaced the 2W LED with a low power (25W) incandescent bulb. Problem solved.
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On 8/25/2015 8:11 PM, Mike Duffy wrote:

for a boat (LORAN-C TD display). As power is scarce on (small) boats, you don't want to be wasteful of it, needlessly. And, as you can't just "plug something in" a convenient "outlet", its even better if you can find a way of *supplying* the power to these sorts of things "automatically".
So, I chose LCD displays (segmented) as the electronics could all be CMOS and require very little power to operate. They are also very visible in direct sunlight (not true for other display technologies -- esp when power is a concern!).
This meant I could ship power down the same cable that was used to send the "data" to be displayed! Excellent!
When the first pre-production batch was built, everything worked fine. EXCEPT, I couldn't turn the display *off*! The power switch didn't work at all!
Long story short: the circuit drew so little power that the power available in the *data* wires was enough to run the device even if the "power" lines were cut (switched off).
Solution: leave the device ON all the time and just wire the "power" switch to BLANK the displays ("play dead").
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