The door frame where the freezer door gasket seals against when closed is hot.
I know this is the defrost cycle, but it stays hot. The fridge works fine. I am assuming the defrost heater is stuck on.
Any thoughts?
I am thinking I can disconnect the heater and let the fridge run normal, except for that. Or I can buy a replacement timer or switch if it is simple and cheap enough.
How to I access the heater wires to disconnect, or the part needing replacement?
Thanks.
Inside refrig might be a slide switch for humid, or normal. Set to normal. Beyond that, I don't know how to help.
No hits on gobble. :<
Look on the back of the appliance (or *under* it, if the compresor hides below) for a schematic in an envelope. It will make clear what the *intended* connections are. You can then locate the connection to the heating element, verify that it *only* feeds the heating element, and disconnect it to verify this is the problem (ideally, you're disconnecting the hot side and not the neutral!).
IIRC, the defrost cycle is terminated by a *temperature* sensor on the freezer coils (when the freezer coils get up above freezing!)
Your condenser fan motor is not operating. This could be because there is s omething blocking the fan blades from moving (just remove it), or the motor is broken (replace it) or it isn't getting power (not common, but check fo r broken wires). The condenser fan motor is the down by compressor and keep s the compressor cool and blows off the heat from the condenser coils. When it isn't working, you will feel heat where it doesn't belong on the cabine t, and your machine will not be working efficiently and you may experience poor cooling.
I should add that you can get the same symptom of a broken condenser fan mo tor as with a severely blocked condenser coils. So check the coils down bel ow and clean them if you can. Not all coils are configured for easy cleanin g, so you just do what you can, use a coil brush or compressed air. They do n't have to be pristine, just not blocked with a wall of lint.
The part number for the condenser motor is 833697. It is an a/c motor and s hould be very easy to diagnose. Is the motor overheated even though there i s no fan blade blockage? Replace it. Remember, if the evaporator fan is run ning (that is the fan in the freezer) then the condenser fan motor should b e running too.
Please report your findings here. I would like to point out how widely vari ed are the posts in response to the OP. You are wasting your time if you fo llow wrong advice.
What the f*ck you are talking about he is asking question about heat around the freezer door and you talking about something that is irrelevant to the problem. Learn something about Refrigeration before giving advice.
Your condenser fan motor is not operating. This could be because there is something blocking the fan blades from moving (just remove it), or the motor is broken (replace it) or it isn't getting power (not common, but check for broken wires). The condenser fan motor is the down by compressor and keeps the compressor cool and blows off the heat from the condenser coils. When it isn't working, you will feel heat where it doesn't belong on the cabinet, and your machine will not be working efficiently and you may experience poor cooling.
Maybe defrost timer got stuck on?
Actually, I do know a lot about refrigeration. None of the guesses by other posters can adequately account for the high heat in the mullion area as we ll as elsewhere on the outside of the cabinet. For example, a problem with the defrost heater is too far away from the mullion to heat it up.
The condenser coils run through the mullion area and the sides of the refri gerator. If there is a problem with the condenser fan, or if the condenser is blocked with lint, the heat from the condenser will not be blown off and it will travel to the mullion, where the OP sensed it. Fixing the fan or r emoving lint will solve the problem.
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