Interior door installation

I had some problems with an interior door installation.
The existing frame already had previous hinges.
So I cut out new areas in the new door for new hinges.
When I mounted the door, it would not close because the door extended too far on the right side.
How do I fix that ?
Thanks, Andy
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Andy submitted this idea :

From th information you have given the only answer is :-?Leave the door open :-?
--
John G Sydney.

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On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 4:58:54 PM UTC-6, John G wrote:

Based on your answer, I hope you are not a contractor. :-)
Andy
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| When I mounted the door, it would not close because the door extended too far on the right side. | You mean it's too wide? Take a measurement, mark the necessary cut, take the door down, clamp on a straight-edge, then use a circular saw to trim the door. Be sure to add the offset of the blade to your calculations. (In other words, if you need to remove 2" from the top and 2.25 inches from the bottom, and the far side of the blade is 1.5 inches from the saw guide, clamp the straightedge on at 3.5" and 3.75".)
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On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 5:26:42 PM UTC-6, Mayayana wrote:

Thanks.
Andy
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On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 6:26:42 PM UTC-5, Mayayana wrote:

re: "because the door extended too far on the right side."
How far is too far?
Depending on how "over-wide" the door is, you may want to consider trimming a little off of both sides to keep the reveal even.
Keep in mind that if you trim to much off of the latch side you may screw up the backset. There is usually some leeway, but I'm tossing that out so that you are not surprised if something goes wrong.
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On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 6:13:58 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:

About 1/8 inch.
Andy
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On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 7:25:19 PM UTC-5, Andy wrote:

Have you measured both doors accurately and determined that the new door is actually wider than the previous one? If it really is then we can be sure that the installation is not a factor in this issue.
I'm not doubting your skills, just making sure you don't treat the symptom but not cure the disease.
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On 2/23/2016 5:55 PM, Andy wrote:

Jack plane the left side.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
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Andy wrote:

Get two, maybe three hydraulic jacks, mount them horizontally in the opening and spread that bitch opening until it fits the door :) ,
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On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 6:46:00 PM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:

Hydraulic jacks, are you serious ?
Try to keep the language clean.
This is a door, not a car. :=)
Andy
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dadiOH posted for all of us...

+1 Or call the Fire Dept. Not enough info posted from Andy OP
--
Tekkie

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As opposed to the wrong side?

The latch stile should be beveled slightly.
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On Wednesday, February 24, 2016 at 8:57:48 AM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:

Could be it is beveled but the wrong direction, because he installed the door as closing from that side.
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On Wednesday, February 24, 2016 at 9:53:17 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:

Um, you did check that the door would fit before putting the hinges on, right?
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On 2/24/2016 9:54 AM, TimR wrote:

Finally some one said it. If it is really only about 1/8", I'll bet you are right that either there is no bevel or it is reversed.
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| Finally some one said it. If it is really only about 1/8", I'll bet you | are right that either there is no bevel or it is reversed.
If there's no bevel it still needs to be trimmed. If it's reversed then the door may not close properly, but the fit could still be an issue. It's common in older houses for doors not to fit. (Even more common at the top, where the frame can end up being badly out of square.) There are also other possible problems. For instance, if the frame wasn't installed well, or if the underlying framing is done poorly, the door frame could have easily shifted enough to cause problems.
I have a door like that. Installed by someone unskilled. Every once in a while I have to take a sledge hammer to the frame to stop the passage hardware from rubbing. My guess is that the studs used in framing the opening were not properly secured.
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On Wednesday, February 24, 2016 at 9:53:17 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:

We don't know if the door was pre-drilled for the lockset, but...
If the door was already pre-drilled for the lockset, wouldn't a "reversed" installation be fairly evident?
Andy obviously wouldn't have hinged the lockset edge, so that only leaves upside down as the way to reverse the bevel. If that was done, the latch lockset location would be too high.
Am I correct in saying that reversing the bevel on an pre-drilled door would be really hard to do merely because of the "visual"? In other words, even if the installer knew nothing about the bevel, other factors would prevent a reversed installation.
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