A couple of years ago we had a garage built. I would like to insulate the
walls and put up some sheet rock.
Couple of questions.
1.) When you are standing inside the garage looking at a wall. In some
places you can see light through the bottom. It's like the 4x8 sheet is
slightly warped in the center and bowes slightly away from the 2x4 on the
bottom. Do I need to drive a nail in the middle of the studs to anchor
that 4x8 sheet?
2.) Skylight. I had a skylight installed. Yes, it leaks now and I believe
it was a dumb thing to do. I just thought the company we had build the
garage had such a good rep that they used top of the line materials and I
also thought the newer skylights were better than the old ones. Anyway
about insulating. Is it worth, assuming we can get it not to leak,
drywalling around the skylight or would I be better off to just tear it
out? Keeping it would make insulating and sheet rocking the roof a pain
in the butt.
Anyway I would really appreciate you opinions.
Without knowing how the garage is constructed, I don't see how anyone
can answer this. A 4X8 sheet of what? In the garages I've been
familiar with, I don't see how a sheet of sheetrock that is slightly
bowed could have light showing out the bottom. But certainly adding
additional nails or screws can't hurt.
If it was a good quality skylight (Velux) and installed properly, it
will not leak. Most of the skylight leak problems are a result of
improper installation, not the skylight itself.
I don't see why having a skylight makes it such a big pain to insulate
and sheetrock. Sure, you have to go around it, but it's not much
different than going around a door, window, etc. If it were me, I'd
figure out WHY it's leaking, and if it's an install issue, fix it. If
it's the actual window, it should still be under warranty.
When you insulate the roof, make sure you have proper venting, soffit
and ridge and use the plastic baffles before putting in the insulation
to keep an air channel open.
On Thu, 23 Apr 2009 12:56:06 -0700, trader4 wrote:
Exterior sheet of plywood that has vertical groves. 4X8 sheet of siding.
With this company that would not surprise me at all.
Without the skylight the ceiling would be flat. With the skylight I would
have to either frame in the area the light shines through or insulate the
actual roof instead of the rafter area. Without the skylight the garage
would just have a flat ceiling. Pretty easy to sheetrock.
I wouldn't put in a sky light but if I had one already in I would make
it water proof. Unless the glass itself is leaking, it should be easy.
If it's the glass, take it off, and clean the mount properly before you
go gobbing on caulking. Caulking over old caulking is short lived.
This will not answer your questions, but:
When I sheathed the inside of my shop I decided to use plywood. Today the
big clubs sell 1/2 inch plywood for a little more than drywall. I believe
it was $6 last time I looked.
Now I can drive nails and hang tools anywhere I want. I did paint the
plywood, and, prior to painting, I trowled on a skim coat of dry wall joint
compound. Putting on the compound saved me many gallons of paint. Also, a
sheet of plywood is a lot lighter than drywall and easier to handle.
These garages may be standalone structures. But if they're attached
to a house, I think plywood walls would create a code problem unless
you clad them with drywall.
If you're garage is attached, do check the local codes before
finalizing your decision.
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
If it were me I'd tear out the skylight."Tunneled" skylights to retain the
flat ceiling look like crap and insulating the roof isn't worth it in a
garage and you are gonna have to remove it to fix leak the anyway..If it's a
Velux skylight , sell it , if it's off brand junk , toss it away... Even
though the garage isn't attached I'd still sheetock it (especially the
ceiling) and add plywood or pegboard where you want to hang tools , ect. due
to fire protection...Good luck...
If you are insulating make sure you install a plastic vapour barrier
under the sheetrock i.e. on the warm side of the insulating batts.
Failure to do so can mean that warmed and therefore damp air, filters
out into the wall and into the insulation.
The warm air can then condense its moisture within the insulation,
which then gets wet. It is then becomes useless as insulation and may
fall down within the wall and cause mould and rot. In serious cases
have seen frost form within the insulation!
For most climates there should be some sort of permeable barrier
(building paper/Tyvek etc.) on the cold side under the outer
sheathing. Many sheds omit this since there are built semi ventilated
'garden shed' style!. The Tyvek etc. prevents the ingress of actual
water but allows the walls etc. to 'breathe' so any moisture that does
form within the walls can escape.
The vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation should be
reasonably well sealed around any wall outlets and windows etc. There
is special tape for this; its somewhat like 3 inch wide clear packing
tape but is often bright red.
For a garage, foamed in place insulation is best - followed by "rock
wool". Fiberglass isn't high on my list due to condensation/moisture
issues, the resulting mould issues, and critters. Neither Urethane
foam nor rock-wool support mould growth or encourage critters.
Google "Roxul" re: rock wool.
Both need to be covered. Spray foam is it's own vapour barrier and
seals leaky joints.
It sounds like you have T-111 siding. If it is bowing out, nail or
screw it back against the framing.
I don't understand why people want to drywall a garage unless it is
attached to the house and for "code" purposes only. I finished the
interior of my shop/garage with metal "liner". It is the same metal
siding they use on pole buildings except it only has 2 coats of paint
and costs less. You put it up, you're done. No finishing, no painting,
and can be powerwashed, and has a ribbed texture. Worried about rust?
Not to worry, it will last longer than you will. The company will cut
it to the inch so there is little cutting. It can be scored and cut
out for electric sockets and such. Fast, easy, durable and looks great
for a garage/shop.
Just my opinion.
By code, plywood sheathing on the exterior of the building should be
nailed every 6" around the perimeter of the sheet, and every 12" in the
middle of the sheet. If that's not the case you should start by adding
whatever nails you need to bring it up to code. In most buildings today,
the plywood sheathing works with the studs to create a "shear" wall. If
the plywood isn't nailed correctly and you have an earthquake or strong
wind storm, your garage may not have enough strength to resist wracking
or even possible collapse.
If the plywood is nailed correctly and you are seeing light between the
plywood and the lower 2x4 plate of the wall, it's possible the 2x4 is
simply warped, or has a depression where it meets the plywood. If it were
me, I would buy a few tubes of a dark caulking and seal up those gaps. If
light can get in the wall, so can cold air and insects. Seal them up.
If you are seeing light UNDER the lower 2x4 plate, you might want to run
around and tighten all the anchor bolts a bit. Wood shinks up as it
dries, and it's possible the anchor bolts aren't holding the framing
tight to the foundation anymore. You should have 2" square washers under
the nut at each bolt to prevent crushing the wood fibers. Ideally, a
roll of "sill sealer" should have been installed between the wall and
foundation when the walls were put up. But I would recommend caulking
around the lower part of the wall also to seal out air and insects.
Overkill for a garage? Perhaps, but it's easy and inexpensive to tighten
things up now and seal gaps with a few tubes of caulk. One you insulate
and sheetrock, it will be virtually impossible to deal with these items.
Afterall, you never know what future use you may get out of the garage
Any roof pentration has the potential to leak, but as long as the
skylight is installed and flashed properly, there's no reason it couldn't
be made water tight. In addition, the skylight can let a lot of natural
light into your garage.
I would certainly try to seal up the skylight if I could before I
resorted to tearing it out and trying to patch the hole and match the
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