On Mon, 4 Apr 2016 10:22:44 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com wrote:
You are probably best off if you can just leave it closed until you
get the new springs installed. Like Don says, a lot of muscle or
separate the panels. I know my 150 MPH rated door is not going up
without the springs, even if you have a couple weight lifter friends.
This thing is hundreds of pounds.
On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 2:30:13 PM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
2 Torsion springs stories:
1 - A coworker got out of his car and pressed the GDO button next to the
door into his house. The door started to close when the spring on his side
broke and smacked him upside the head.
His wife, who saw him pull into the driveway, got curious when he didn't
come into the house and went out to the garage. She found him lying on the
floor, semi-conscious, with a bloodied face and head.
He spent a few days in the hospital after getting sewn up and was out of
work for a few weeks. When he came back his face look like...well, I guess
it looked like he had been hit by a torsion spring.
2 - My door has a single spring across the top. I tried to close the door
with the GDO and when it got about halfway down I heard a loud bang and
door stopped. I looked above the door and saw that the spring had broken
and the cable around the pulley was loose, kind of half on and half off.
Not quite knowing what the deal was, I decided to pull the emergency release
on the GDO. As soon as I pulled the release, the door dropped violently
another 2 feet or so, when the cable got tangled up on something and stopped
the door - just as my 2 year old daughter ran from the porch and into the
garage. Holy crap!
I don't know if I had ever hugged her as hard as I did that day.
Don't doubt the guy got hit but can't see how it could've been a
_torsion_ spring that did it...if the linear spring wasn't installed
correctly with the cable thru it to keep it from going somewhere when it
broke yes...but the torsion springs are wound around the solid bar;
there's nowhere for them to go flying to off of it.
Replacing them isn't _that_ tough; done it several times. One does need
to ensure have the proper toolset/skillset to rewind one w/o letting it
get away from you, though.
On Mon, 4 Apr 2016 11:59:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
How did he get hit with a torsion spring, They are captive on the
pipe. That used to happen with the old style tension springs until
people started threading a steel cable through them to hold the end
when they broke. I know I did that when I put in my door in the 70s in
Md and I retro fitted the one here.
Now I have torsion springs on the replacement door.
On 4/4/2016 1:22 PM, email@example.com wrote:
The one time I saw a garage guy open a door
with broken spring, he used a come along
"cable hoist" tool from the door frame to
the lower roller. Seemed to work fine for
him. You might need two workers and two
On Mon, 4 Apr 2016 10:22:44 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
My garage door is an older wooden 9 foot wide. I had one of the coil
springs break (not torsion, but the long springs alongside the door
track). [is there a name for those springs?]
Anyhow, while the door was up, I removed the other spring, because I
could not get the door to lower with only one spring because it was
pulling sideways. I knew if I left the door open, I'd have raccoons in
there making a mess.
I lowered the door onto some junk tires (off the rims), so it would not
crash against the floor and possibly break something on the door. Then I
raised the door a half inch with my floorjack to remove the tires.
When it came time to open the door, (you cant install those springs with
the door closed), I got a prybar under it, then a 2x4, and raised it
enough to get my floorjack under it. I jacked it as high as it would go
(about 16"), then using a second floorjack, with blocks of wood stacked
on top, I got the door up so it was about 3.5 feet from the floor.
At that point, I was able to raise it the rest of the way by hand, but I
had someone there to put 2x4s under the raised door, to make sure it
stayed up. Then I replaced the springs.
You cant lift them doors by hand when they are all the way down, but
once they are halfway up, you can. Either way, I'd put a prop (2x4)
under the door so it dont come crashing down on you.
With that said, "Torsion Springs" are a different matter. I'm thinking
you'd lift the door the same way, but I dont know how you work on those
springs with the door UP. I have never had torsion springs, and really
would not want them. If I did have them, I'd probably hire a
professional to do the work. Those springs are dangerous!
I did once remove a garage door from a garage that was going to be
demolished, and it had torsion springs. This was many years ago, so I
cant recall all the details. I just remember taking the whole door
apart, piece by piece, and I didn't take the spring. I just converted
that door to use the side springs, since I already had the door tracks.
I just wanted the door itself.
Tony, you're brave. I don't think I want to attempt it. I've seen a
video to replace a torsion spring but still hesitate on trying it. I'm
game for many things but not all :( . I once watched my dad
replace a garage spring (parallel to the track) and I know he had a
job doing it alone but he did manage to get it correct. Well, bottom
line is.... you did good !!
There are scores of videos of common people just
like you and me replacing our torsion springs.
Winding a spring is "almost" trivial.
The only thing that makes it decidedly not trivial is
the dire consequence of something going wrong.
However, the spring-winding task, in and of itself,
is quite trivial for a man of normal strength.
The release if for the opener. The springs are to make the door light
enough so the opener has to do only small ammount of work. If the springs
break the opener will not have enough power to open the door.
With the springs working, the door is light enough to lift by hand when the
opener quits working and the release is pulled.
You can pull the release and lift the door when the springs break IF you are
strong enough. It may take two or three people depending on the weight of
I have some experience with a single broken spring on a 2-spring door.
No problem lifting and lowering the door by hand. But, I could only lift
it so high, and it wouldn't stay in that position. So I clamped a vise
grip on the rail to hold the door open. Did that for a few months, a
couple of times per week as needed.
Q: Can you disengage the garage door from the GDO with a broken spring?
A: Yes. There is no relationship to the spring whatsoever for disengaging.
Q: Can you then open & close the door manually (with a broken spring)?
A: Yes. But.
The torsion spring was counterbalancing the door - so - now YOU need
to lift the weight of the door which 'was' handled by the broken
spring. My single-car door is 127 pounds. A double-car door can easily
be double that.
BTW, "closing" the door will be easy (gravity does the work for you).
But think about how you would go about 'stopping' two to four 50-pound
bags of cement falling 7 feet along the tracks.
Q: If one of two torsion springs break, can you manually open the door?
A: The answer is the same. The only difference is that half the weight
of the door is on you, the other half is on the matched unbroken spring.
There are two (and only two) web pages you need to fully understand
garage door torsion springs. I've read dozens, and I've watched every
youtube video out there - but you only need these two pages:
1. Richard Kinch (background material)
2. Dan Musick (DDM Garage Doors DIY info)
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