Ideas please for shelves installed next to bathroom sink (that won't rot!)

Hi all, I'm trying to get some recommendations for materials to use for a shelf that would be attached to the wall next to my bathroom sink. I'm disabled and really need to have certain things close by which is why the shelves need to be right next to the sink. Problem is, the particleboard shelves I've used in the past would always swell up and crack over time because of moisture. FYI, they were the plastic (Melamine?) covered shelves.
The last time my handyman went to Home Depot he got lucky and was given a scrap piece of treated wood that was painted white that fit perfectly in the area to the right of the sink. He said because of the way it's treated, it shouldn't warp or crack. Unfortunately, he said that type of wood is very expensive and can only be purchased in large pieces. So I'm still looking for something to replace the shelf on the right side of the sink (10" x 15"). Would covering a piece of the Melamine covered particleboard shelving with a thick coat of lacquer prevent it from warping? The shelving material we use doesn't have to be very strong, everything put on the shelf altogether weighs less than 2 pounds.
Any info you all can provide is greatly appreciated, thanks!
Dan G. in CT
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On 5/12/2016 2:58 PM, Dan Gove wrote:

Something "like this" might work for you: $7
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMaid-12-in-2-Tier-Storage-Rack-8002/100112252
Assembled size: 10.5 in. H x 11.375 in. W x 5 in. D
--
Maggie

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My choice would be glass shelves that are clamped into a track on the wall. You can buy them in most hardware stores and probably at Loews/HD.
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On 05/12/2016 02:58 PM, Dan Gove wrote:

I would not use particle board of any kind. Since nothing heavy will go there, just a plastic shelf should be fine.
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wrote:

Any kind of real wood would work. Rip a piece of 1x12 red oak or even white wood (sold in short pieces at the HD/Lowes), seal it well and it will last longer than all of us. I have some ponderosa pine that has been in my bathroom 20 years. I stained it a little darker and put some poly urethane on it.
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On Thu, 12 May 2016 17:51:42 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster

Cedar is good and if you are serious about it use cypress but that ponderosa pine has been fine. Just be sure you seal it well.
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On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 3:59:02 PM UTC-4, Dan Gove wrote:

You could have a piece of 12" wide PVC fascia board cut to size.
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Just use real varnish, several (at least 3) coats to water-proof it, not just a couple of squirts of something from a spray can.
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wrote:

How much handiness does the handiman have. If he's ready to paint or polyurethane a piece of real wood, it will last longer than any of us. Assuming you have a way to attach it, like a couple brackets and he knows how to screw it to the wall or even the studs (unless it's a tile wall.)
That assumes by moisture you mean moisture and not water sitting on the shelf for hours at a time. (In fact if it's just humidity, it wouldn't even have to be painted except for appearance.
And if you are disabled I think you could call Home Depot or whomever and ask the wood department or building materials manager to keep his eye open for when the cut a piece 10" wide that has a 15" piece left over. I know most? people buy the whole board, but I think quite a few??????? get them cut short before they leave.
You don't need cedar or cypress unless it does sit for hours with puddles on it. or glass.. The closetmaid rack is only 5" deep.

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On Thu, 12 May 2016 23:31:11 -0400, Micky

He'll put it aside for you, but it will be harder to get someone to remember to call you, and to be able to find your number when they need it. And without that you won't know when to call him. But you can talk to the guy and see how accomodating he is. Maybe he'll be great. Quite a few people are. Maybe there is soemthing sitting there already longer than 15" that he can cut for you.
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On 05/12/2016 01:58 PM, Dan Gove wrote:

Solid surface material from a store that sells kitchen countertops.
Azek material from a lumberyard.
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Dan Gove posted for all of us...

Being disabled myself I use the wire type closet shelves. They can be cut to size and the plastic bumpers put on the ends. They mount to a bookshelf type rails and can be adjusted. I like the fact one can poke stuff from the bottom if need be and have a natural ventilation. Closet Maid is a manufacturer IIRC.
I would use a plastic material rather than wood if you want a solid surface. Make certain the are fastened to the hangers because my experience a regular type shelf will off to the ends or toward you if not loaded properly.
Please let us know how you proceed as I'm always willing to steal a good idea.
--
Tekkie

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