How to do inside and outside corners and ends of beadboard wainscoting?

[Adam]

I'm installnig 40" beadboard wainscoting around my bathroom. I will put a chair rail across the top, and baseboard at the bottom to finish the top and bottom. For the inside and outside corners, though, what should I do? Some points will abut against door frame, where I will simply trim the beadboard to meet it. What about the corners though? And there are two places where the beadboard will need to meet the bullnose edge of the shower tiles. How should I finish those edges? Thanks!

[Edwin Pawlowski]

For an inside corner I'd put one piece flush to the wall, then bring in the second piece and trim to fit next to it. You can scribe a line and then cut it with a jig saw of use a plane or rasp to get a perfect fit.

Outside corners are tougher. You can do a lap joint and plane to fid, or you can use a corner trim that may or may not stain the same color if that is the finish. Many years ago, my step father used to do mitered corners on a job like that and in 1970's dollars, he'd charge $25 a corner to do it. He had the skill for that to make it look like a solid piece of wood.

[Joseph Meehan]

Yea, the best is mitered, but even with the best of tools and reasonable straight walls, it is a bear.

[Duane Bozarth]

Easiest way I've found is to make the corner section in the shop and then field-fit rather than try to fit the miter itself onsite....