I have a small house, with 500 to 1000 square feet of wood panel requiring
Do people recommend buying a sprayer for this job? (I own a 100+ psi air
compressor, if this helps.) If so, what brand do you recommend? Can I get
away with one of those roughly $100 sprayers at Lowe's and Home Depot?
What paint is needed? Please feel free to list specific brands. I'll pay
more for a higher quality look.
What sort of surface preparation is appropriate? The unfinished wood is
starting to show through in some places.
I will be googling for more info on the subject but would appreciate _any_
Those cheapy sprayers might be OK for hobby projects but not exterior
house painting. If you insist on spraying then rent professional
For 500-1000 sq ft I'd recommend a brush or roller. Spraying looks
easy but it's takes lots of experience and professional technique to
apply a consistent film thickness and to the thickness level
recommended by the paint manufacturer. As a spraying newbie, it might
look OK initially but it won't after a couple years. A good compromise
is to use a sprayer to apply the paint and then backbrush or backroll
You also need to keep in mind that sprayers involve lots of overhead.
There's setup, masking everything in sight, and cleaning the equipment
at the end of the job. (and everything needs to be masked when you
spray including drift going to the neighbors!!)
Preperation is extremely important. You absolutely need to have a good
clean substrate. (ie no dirt, mildew, chaulk, or peeling paint). You
also need to do caulking and priming where necessary.
I like SW Duration. It's expensive but it's one coat, self priming,
and has a lifetime guarantee. Avoid homecenter paint sold at places
like Kmart an Home Crapo. Go to a real paint store where the pro's
Spend time on the prep work.
A good Powerwash and scrapping will make a difference in the end
Also, buy the good Caulk (GE xrt caulk @HD) and fill in the seams
I agree 100% with buying good paint (say away from HD, Menards, Kmart).
I've had good results with Murello but prep is essential. Can't go
wrong with Benjam Moore either.
I painted the interior of a house with an airless sprayer and it took a lot
more time to do all the masking etc. than it would have taken to use brushes
and rollers. I also spent a lot of time cleaning paint specks from windows
and fixtures that were in another room.
The sprayer kept clogging and the instructions didn't even tell me it had a
filter in the hose.
OTOH I made a sprayer for latex out of a peanut butter jar and a compressor
blower. Your basic atomizer design. I have to thin the paint some (25-30%
water) to get it to spray but it only requires a small compressor and is
extremely simple to clean. I use it to paint under the eaves, wood
swingsets, picnic tables, fences etc. I even painted roof turbines with it.
They still looked great after several years. It would probably do a good
job on siding if care is taken to avoid runs and it would be very easy to
use for stucco. I have several of the same (plastic) jars and if some paint
is left over you just unscrew it and put a lid on it and use the other jar
on the sprayer.
Always buy the more expensive paint unless you really enjoy repainting every
My experiance with sprayers is that they are messy and you need to go
over it with a brush anyhow. 1000sq is not a big job with a brush -
unless it is a very rough siding - then i'd use the sprayer.
Pending what is on it now I would go with Benj. Moore primer and 100%
flat acrylic. I live near the ocean with lots of wind, salt and
moisture and never have a problem with this brand.
Cleaning is a must. If you use a pressure washer i'd wait a few weeks
after as it drives the water into the wood and over time it has to
escape - unfortunately through your new paint causing bubbles. Sand and
prime. Fill gaps with a good latex painters caulking. Replace any rot.
I would go to you local reputable paint dealership and speak to a
knowledgable paint sales person as a first step.
in work. But to honest for 500 t0 1000 sq ft job you would save money hiring
somebody by the time you rent equipment, plus sounds like this would be a
new experience for you so it might be better to paint the neighbors house
for practice.Your not talking about a big job so you could roll it even if
you spray you still need to back roll it. As for paint I use Kelly Moore as
mentioned most the paints I've used from home crapo and lowes are best left
on the shelf.
Dave, Kubie, Ulysses, Sacramento, robson, and Ed,
Thank you very much for sharing your specific experiences. I read all your
posts and put them in my notes. This seems to me a very good start.
I'll go with the brush and rollers, high quality paints at real paint stores
(or whoever sells some of the brands you all suggested), will start
researching power washing, and get on top of caulking. The wood siding is
kind of rough, but from some touch-up spots I painted a few years ago, and
with enough diligence, I think I'll be okay with the brush and rollers.
This is indeed a "new experience" for me, but I just can't see hiring
someone to do this when I have the time and wherewithal. I prefer to give my
money to charities...
I figure if I mess up this time, it will be better next time.
As an 8 year old playing sandlot football with some 12 year olds I was
asked to go out and turn right for a pass. Told the "quarterback" I'd
never done that and his response was "You can't learn any younger!"
and I've never forgotten. Love that philosophy! Experience teaches.
On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 16:35:51 GMT, "Elle"
Good luck with the project!!
Motivation to do the best quality job will make up for your lack of
inexperience. There's no question that you can do a job as good as a
pro, however it might take you 2-3X the time.
Be very careful about any powerwashing on wood. You can destroy wood
with high pressure washing and/or drive water deep into the inner walls
where it could ruin insulation and cause mildew/rot problems. For wood
siding cleaning prep, I prefer using Jomax, bleach, and water in a low
pressure pump up garden sprayer. Spray it on, wait, and rinse it off
with a garden hose. If there are stubborn areas use a long handled car
wash brush. Let it dry for several days before painting. It won't
harm nearby vegitation if used according to the Jomax bottle
Another tip is to always try and paint in the shade and not on a hot
Bob, good anecdote.
Dave, what you say about the powerwashing makes sense. I'll devise a much
lower pressure method.
I don't have any large shade trees around my house as yet, so I'll shoot for
I figure it will indeed take me longer, but I have the time. It will be a
good athletic workout. And I'm sure I'll love the improved look of the
Re: no shade: Just let the sun chase you around the house. Start on the
southern or western exposure while early in the AM - after the dew is gone
from the siding. Then, move counter-clockwise around the compass and you
should be ahead of the sun. If it catches you by noon, move to the north
side which should get little if any sun. Also, regarding caulk, I have
found the 100% silicone varieties to hold up much better than the combo
latex/ silicone. Unfortunately, these are not paintable. The saving grace,
perhaps in your case, is that it is available in white, almond and dark
brown - also, concrete gray, so one of these may work for you. Remember, at
the distances that people will be observing it only has to be a similar
color. If you can't compromise here you will indeed have to paint.
Best of luck. Having done it both ways I would go back to doing it myself
in a heartbeat becaus I do a far better job than the so-called pros and if I
can so can you!!
Be careful and don't worry about time.
I've never painted an entire exterior, just this and that outdoors, and
lots of interior. The advice has been good...fall is a good time for
painting, as you want to have dry weather and not too cold or hot.
As for caulk, be sure to get a paintable caulk (the tube will have
indications for use for the specific area), which you want to get done
Proper prep and good brand paint make all the difference. Pick your
paint brand and check out the company's website for trouble spots and
general direction. The fine print on the label is there for a good
Use blue painter's tape, not brown masking tape, and take it off as soon
as you are finished painting. Don't paint above sidewalks or patios
without a tarp, because drips and spills are about impossible to get out
If you have small areas where a sprayer would work better, there is a
little aerosol sprayer available, with air refills, but they are very
small. Work like a charm on louvers, etc. Mailbox? Turned railings?
Preval makes them. You use your own paint, fill the jar, add stuff per
the instructions to thin paint. They have a small spray area, so are
easy to control. Use a small foam brush to catch drips and runs.
Always mix paint immediately before use, even though they put it in the
shaker at the paint store. Mix the next can of paint with part of the
paint from the previous so's if there is a color difference it will be
Buy good quality brushes and take care of them; they will last as long
as you do :o)
Old pantyhose are great for tying around shrubs to keep them away from
the paint. :o) Enjoy :o)
Prior to dipping the brush into the paint/finish precondition it with
the proper solvent, thinner for oil based and water for latex. Get
the bristles wet up to the ferrule. Stops the paint from drying
inside the brush making it stiffer and makes cleaning MUCH easier.
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