lity and difficulty (or ease) of this proposition before making a choice on
a new hot tub.
reaker in the breaker box, and another breaker and cut-off switch outside o
n the side of the house in a separate box - about 10' from the tub. This w
as done about 5 years ago, so the wiring is pretty new. The tub itself was
older and used when we got it, but the price was right (free - plus the co
st for moving and wiring). It served us well, but gave up the ghost last y
ear. Now we're looking for a replacement and have been looking at smaller
hot tubs. Most of them seem to be of the 110V "Plug-n-play" variety, thoug
h they say they do require a 15amp dedicated circuit.
thing to convert this circuit to be a 110V, 15 amp circuit? Basically as s
imple as putting in new breakers of the appropriate amperage, and adding a
receptacle to the end of the wire (previously it was wired directly into th
It is doable, but let the electrician make the determination.
The 15 amp plug-in type hot tubs operate a little differently than what you
had. Because of the small power supply, the hot tub will only heat water
when it is not in use. When you have the jets blowing bubbles, the heater
will not operate. This is fine if you don't use the tub for extended perio
ds where the water would cool down while you are in it.
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 5 Oct 2015 13:14:12 -0700 (PDT), John G
When I'm in the bathtub for even 30 minutes, either the water cools off
or it just feels like it has because I've gotten used to it. I have to
keep adding a trickle of hot water.
I was going to measure the temperature to see if it's what changes but I
r when it is not in use. When you have the jets blowing bubbles, the heate
r will not operate. This is fine if you don't use the tub for extended per
iods where the water would cool down while you are in it.
My first spa, I made that mistake too. When I found out the disadvantages
it was still new, so I got the company to switch out the controller pack
for a 240V one.
To summarize, there are two issues:
First is what John pointed out, that the heater will not heat while the
pump is on high and the blower is going. That may not be so bad, because
usually you're not going to be in it long enough for the water to cool
down much. But it does mean that whatever temp it's at when you get in,
it's only going down.
Second is what GFRE pointed out, that at 240V it will heat at 4X the
rate as 120V. To me, that makes a big difference, especially in one
that is outside. I keep mine at the lowest temp, 50F, which obviously
saves a lot of energy in the winter. When I'm going to use it, I turn
it up. It still takes a few hours to get to 100F. It would take 4x
that with 120V, meaning you'd have to plan a long way in advance.
Or you could keep it on a timer, but I don't use mine that regularly.
Another factor is from what I've seen, the 120V ones are limited to
very small ones. I think if you're getting one, it doesn't cost all
that much more to get a bigger/better one.
If he really wants 120V, then converting that circuit over isn't a
Thanks for all the replies. It'll take me a while to look through them all
, but I got the answer I was hoping for pretty quick. So thanks. I love t
Some of the hot tubs I was looking at that come as 120v plug-n-play can als
o be purchased as 240v (hard-wiring required, with a more powerful heater a
nd maybe some other additions - for an extra price). Other tubs appear to
be sold as 120v only. My personal preference is to pay the extra $$ for a
240 model, but I did not want to be constrained when looking at tub, so it'
s nice to know that the wiring should be simple for an electrician.
As for converting a 120v to run on 240v, I guess you could do it if you mad
e sure all the components could handle that, but I wouldn't want to risk it
. For the tubs that I was looking at that come in both flavors, they often
say that you if you have the 240v model, you can easily rewire it to run o
n 120v (but clearly, if you did that, you wouldn't be making use of the bee
fed up heater element that you payed extra for). However, the reverse is g
enerally not true; you can't convert the 120v model to run on 240 - at leas
t that's what the manual says.
On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 12:25:54 PM UTC-4, J wrote:
and maybe some other additions - for an extra price). Other tubs appear t
o be sold as 120v only. My personal preference is to pay the extra $$ for
a 240 model, but I did not want to be constrained when looking at tub, so i
t's nice to know that the wiring should be simple for an electrician.
it. For the tubs that I was looking at that come in both flavors, they oft
en say that you if you have the 240v model, you can easily rewire it to run
on 120v (but clearly, if you did that, you wouldn't be making use of the b
eefed up heater element that you payed extra for). However, the reverse is
generally not true; you can't convert the 120v model to run on 240 - at le
ast that's what the manual says.
I'm not sure there is actually a beefed up heater element at all. I
think it's the same element, they just put 240V across it instead of 120V.
It's fully surrounded in moving water, the temp rises across it's not much.
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