Help with water line


I plan on running 200 feet or water line to a detatched garage spigot and frost free hydrant. I bould the coiled black polyethelene NSF rated 3/4 tube. My intention was to place a piece of 1 1/4 inch conduit through my block wall and run the pipe through that so as to avoid any sharp edges in the block then lay the rest of the pipe directly in the ditch. Well, I did not realize how easily the stuff kinked. I slightly kincked it going through the conduit. I quit right there as it was getting dark. Will I have trouble with it kinking as I un roll it in the ditch? Is it ok to have a slight kink? Will this stuff be ok once it is in the ground?
Also in the garage a played with the fittings and the barbs will not go in by hand. If I heated it with a torch, to the point of it catching on fire I could slide it on but will this dammage the pipe or cause a leak?
This is my first try at working with the stuff and I did not realize how fragile it is. WIll it kink when I fill in dirt and tamp it?
Any help is appreciated!
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A good warm day helps a lot when working with this stuff.
I would cut out the kink and put in a coupler using SS clamps to secure it at both ends.
Moderate heat or better yet some liquid dish detergent helps with sliding in the fittings.
When back filling make sure there are no rocks in the dirt. A load of sand for $20 is cheap insurance here.
The good news is that one I installed in 1969 is still going strong.
Colbyt
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I installed some from the house to my detached shop. Lasted about 5 years and after the 4th split I replaced it with schedule 40 pvc.
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you got 100 psi rating get the 160 or 200 rated pipe it is a bear to roll out in cold weather but it will be worth it in the long haul should last 30 years do not put any couplings in ground you are just asking for a leak make one continuious run i have been doing this work for 25 years we warrenty all our work for 5 years parts and labor good luck if i can answer any questions call me 1-800-935 -5654 rogers and sons well service thanks scott rogers
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I would run PEX inside a conduit, if it ever needs replaced very little digging, and entire run has mechanical protection.
the PVC type tends to split over time
use 3 inch PVC schedule 40 as conduit its cheap and strong
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:
-snip-

I'm with Scott. If it is real cold where you are then fill the new plastic with hot tap water.
Compared to the money, sweat and PITA of the whole job, getting a new piece of pipe at this point is pretty cheap insurance that you're not doing it all again in the spring-- or next winter when it is 10below zero.
Jim
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It probably kinked because it was too cold. I've used the standard product for irrigation wells with no problems. However it may be worth it to get the higher grade product. Obviously this type of pipe works and is reliable. It's used here in NJ for all the connections on new homes between main and house.
Carefully heating it with a propane torch works wonders to get the barb fittings on. You might want to experiment on a piece before starting on a critical section so you get to know how much heat to apply. Make sure to double clamp each connection.
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It is not that cold. I live in Southern kentucky and my ditch is below the frost line. I plan on using foam pipe insulation also more for a little protection. I have no way of avoiding the fittings in the ground though. My run is 200 feet and the pipe came in 100 foot sections. I bought the steel connectors instead of the plastic. ALso the crimp connectors and bought the special tool. I also bout the screw in stainless connectors. I figured I would use two connectors, one of each type ont he fittings.
Would it be stupid to go ahead and run this line but alos beside it to run a regular pvc line just in case there is a problem in the future?
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Since you have gone through all the effort to dig a 200 foot ditch. I'd suggest to run anything else you can imagine, that might be needed. The parallel PVC sounds good. Or, a redundant line of water tubing. Also, consider laying in some electrical wire (UF, please, not romex). And possibly a couple length of telephone wire, or 75 ohm cable for television or cable internet.
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On Dec 23, 7:45am, "Stormin Mormon"

As far as the problem with straightening out the poly, would using a hair dryer on the pipe in my garage help to straighten in out before I put it in the ditch or will this weaken the pipe?
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Also, would using pipe dope on the barbed fittings before the black poly pipe goes on be a good or bad idea?
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stryped wrote:

Not if the can doesn't say it's for that material. Make a thick solution of hand dish soap. You light be able to tap in some of the fittings with a wooden board or rubber hammer.
I'd question the use of steel fittings too. Unless they are stainless, that's likely to be the failure point. It might pay to mark the fitting location before you bury it so you can find it if theree is a problem later.
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wrote:

Once it kinks, it is weakened.
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On Dec 23, 8:45�am, "Stormin Mormon"

heck run a couple EMPTY conduits, one never knows what they might want to add in the future,.
If OP were ME, I wouldnt splice 2 pieces under any circumstances or bury a once kinked line!!!
I would run a 3 inch PVC sewer pipe, and inside that install a single PEX line, it comes in 1000 foot rolls.
PEX is dirt cheap and easy to work with.
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It is not that cold. I live in Southern kentucky and my ditch is below the frost line. I plan on using foam pipe insulation also more for a
A licensed plumber also here in Kentucky insisted on using a short section of copper pipe with double SS clamps on each end because he said our that was better for our soil conditions than the galvanized.
This was to repair a backhoe break and not a failure. That line has been in place for over 23 years.
I did think the stuff was sold in 250 foot rolls. Did you call Brocks in Lexington or Corbin?
Colbyt
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