On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 15:28:52 -0500 (EST), Alexander Litvin
Friction. It fits inside the casing. On windows with flush panels, the foam
stripping could be on the rear-facing surface of the frame, and I suppose it
could be tacked up with brads or staples... but I never had to give it that
much thought, since all my single-pane windows are recessed in the casing a
few centimeters. I have some sliding aluminum windows in the wall facing
between the houses, but they don't have that problem, as they, like many
aluminum windows, are double-glazed.
I am suppose that heat can be captured or recycled back into inside air, not
by actually blowing vent air inside house but by sending it throu a coil of
pipes with heatsinks that would take heat from the hot air passing through
it and radiate it back into room. I have seen a similar technique using for
allowing air ventalation from inside to outside by exchanging the heat
energy from from to exhaust by conduction through metal.
It wouldn't work. As I posted before, I have used a heat recycling device
with an electric dryer (Do NOT attempt this with a GAS dryer!!!). Venting
the hot exhaust from the dryer directly into the room (through a lint
trap/water bucket thingie) will indeed raise the temperature of 1000SF about
2-4 degrees F, and bump up humidity levels to about 60%. The problem is,
the change is only temporary and wears off after an hour or two. So you'd
have to do about 70 loads of laundry a week or more to see any difference in
your heat bill.
Your suggestion would be even less efficient than that, as thermal energy
would be lost before it affected room temperature. So I guess you'd have to
run the dryer constantly, which wouldn't be very frugal. :) -Dave
It would, in principle, but the heat sinks have to be very large to be
efficient. Better to run the dryer output through a container with some
sealed containers of water inside, and let them condense water vapor and
store heat and slowly release it later, or hang the damp clothes in a
closet with a few light bulbs controlled by a humidistat.
On 8 Jan 2004 13:14:24 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Ah, very good -- but I use a 40 pint room dehumidifier.
In a closed closet, or in a closet with the door only cracked open, the DH
doesn't run very often! But I don't dry =clothes= with it!
wide-open at throttle dot info
The time to repair the roof is when the sun is shining
Me too. More expensive. More efficient. Heats the house in wintertime.
Then again, Elana's Irish Whirlpool awz 541 condensing dryer could be
reasonably fast and efficient. She says it has something that looks like
a dehumidifier in it, with no cold water I/O, as in other condensing dryers.
edgar email@example.com (Edgar S.) wrote in message
A friend of mine in the northeast built a greenhouse on the southside
of his house for winter veggies and helping warm the house. He does
the dryer exhaust/nylon stocking thing into it, as well as running
greywater into a metal holding tank until its heat is gone. It keeps
his bill for warming it to a minimum, and wall condensation is not a
problem since he built it with two layers of clear rigid plastic. I
think the moisture ends up condensing to the ground or the plant
I did this for years--no mold problems, but lots of dust as a result. It is
just about impossible to catch all the dust with a filter (unless it reduces
airflow unacceptably). On balance, I think it is probably not worth the
effort. My dryer was in the basement and the heat didn't make it very far.
Neither did the dust, of course.
Naw. Google searches find plenty of the ones that will _really_ work.
Problem being they're not cheap. Ie: I saw a site for a company that
specialized in installing "rotating disk" heat exchangers on institutional
dryers. But those things are pretty pricy - I'd suspect $1K or more
Haven't found anybody (yet) making rotating disk heat exchanger units suitable
in size for a consumer grade dryer. The units I saw had 24" disks...
"Normal" heat exchangers (eg: required for highly sealed R2000 homes etc)
aren't suitable because they'd plug up - as it is, they're $250 or more.
"Rotating disk" ones are real neat - self-cleaning.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Might be useful in an airtight house. A 55 gallon drum with a dryer feed at
the top and a removable lid and some cheesecloth under the lid and over 27
3'x4" capped vertical thinwall PVC water pipes with air and water outlets
near the drum bottom might be more efficient for the rest of us.
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