HardeePlank Questions

The instrucitons say to overlap 1 1/4 inch minimum. But I have 3 inches on the top of every 'plank' that is smooth (not finished). Is that supposed to show?
When I get to the top, how do I end? Just caulk the top edge?
Instructions call for furing strip at the bottom. Could I just rip a hardeeplank up in a 1 inch widths and nail that to the edge of the 2x4 framing?
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JimL wrote:

If you overlap it by the recommended 1-1/4", then part of the smooth area will show. It is supposed to give the reverse board and batten look. You can overlap it the full width of the smooth area if you want. If you want no smooth area showing and you want the greater coverage, use the standard lap siding which has no smooth area.

Traditionally, you put a trim board at the top. Can be 1x2 or 1x4 or whatever you want.

Yes, if you are talking about starter strips at the bottom plate.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 21:50:06 GMT, Robert Allison

Gracias.
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However it'll be a lot easier to just buy some 1 1/2 X 1/4" treated lath at lowes or HD to use as a starter strip. I just finished residing my house and I'd hate to think of ripping 1" strips for the whole perimeter! Dust, dust, dust...
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On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 21:48:18 -0400, John/Charleston

I did what you suggest. I only have an electric hand saw so gave up on the idea of ripping the cement boards. I hate that mask. I'm using 3/4 inch foam board so I have the 1/4 furring strip over the foam to the left of back door, over which I then put the starter cement board. I spliced some new lumber on the bottom of several 2x4s that were termite damaged, so maybe my house won't fall down. Later, I'll add some more new 2x4s when I replace the single pane windows with low e..
When I do the right side I'm going with 3/4 1x2 'cedar appearce boards' and add the furing strip at the bottom and then put the foam inside the frame. That should better discourage the rats from entering my walls.
Also, I bought the hdg nails suggested and had a horrible time trying to drive them so had to predrill.
JimL
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Not sure what hdg nails are, I used a roof nails with my roofing nailer.

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I am in the process of installing cement fiber siding (not Hardee brand tho) also. I am using nails specifically made for that purpose-- don't know if that is what you are referrring to, but I am predrilling my siding also. As for the foam you are talking about and keeping rats out, don't count on it. They can and will gnaw through it with no trouble at all. It is like candy to them. Use galvanized flashing where you have any areas that rats and other rodents can enter. Larry
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On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 08:08:38 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (lp13-30) wrote:

I've put up some heavy wire mesh over the screen holes in my sophit vents that seems to keep the squirrels and rats out or in. So I will try that inside of the starter board. . HDG probably stands for Hot Dip Galvanized. Every other nail would bend when I struck it with a hammer when driving thru the cement board. I'm going with deck screws because I may need to be able to disassemble...
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