Half pieces of PVC

I need some 3" or 4" PVC split long ways. Is this available commercially, or will I have to do it on a table saw? About 80'.
Steve
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Never seen it for sale.
Note that when you slit it on the table saw the kerf will close to due the release of residual extrusion stress.
More noticeable on larger pipe (like >6").
Also the two cut pieces will no longer be "round", the cut edges tend to "flare" to straight / lose their curvature.
cheers Bob
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On 7/23/2011 8:11 PM, DD_BobK wrote:

I gotta ask- what is this for?
--
aem sends, curiously....

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DD_BobK wrote:

Or close up.
I did this with a "Pool Noodle" from WalMart. A PoolNoodle is a four-foot cylinder of foam rubber with a 1/2" hole through its length. I used it to insulate the high-pressure line from the A/C condensing unit to the outside wall. A similar piece of insulating rubber from the box store costs about $8.00. The PoolNoodle was eighty-nine cents. Plus a rip through the saw.
Anyway, when ripped, the slot did not stay open, it closed up.
'Course this has absolutely nothing to do with PVC, I just felt like making this a better world.
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On 7/25/2011 10:52 AM, HeyBub wrote:

A common trick- I see slit pool noodle sections used as pads on roof racks and such all the time.
--
aem sends...

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On 07/23/11 7:40 PM, Steve B wrote:

What about half round gutters? Too flimsy? Maybe double 'em up?
http://tinyurl.com/HalfRoundGutter
http://www.egutter.com/RAIN-GUTTERS-GUTTER-SUPPLY/Gutters-Vinyl-Plastmo/Classic-Vinyl-4-Half-Round-Gutter-10-White
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one time I was making 3/4" slip on sleeves for a cable line that went through a flower bed. The last time I was making a protective cover for physical protection only, of an older electric SE over a patio.
Colbyt
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Colbyt wrote:

A bandsaw would be my first choice.
I'd set the pipe along side a 2x4 and then hot glue it in a few places along the length.
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Mike Paulsen wrote:

Oooh! Good idea about attaching it to a 2x4. That way it won't rotate.
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wrote:

Make a 90 in a piece of metal and clamp it to the bed so it is aligned to the kerf, That would hold the kerf open and stabilize the work piece
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On 7/23/2011 4:40 PM, Steve B wrote:

I would make a jig that was about 2' long, the width of the pvc, and with a top that is just higher than the blade height. Then you could hold it on the table and feed it through. with it 2' long, you wouldn't have to hold it above the blade. (yikes)
--
Uno

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That would work if the blade is high enough to cut the pipe in one pass. If not, you have to get a tad more sophisticated. I'd make a jig like you mention for the first cut. Then I'd take a strip of metal and bend it 90 degrees to act as a guide while putting the pipe through on the second pass that splits it. The guide can be ahead of the blade and would keep the tubing from turning as you push.
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I did this ONCE before, and used a band saw. Boy, howdy, did I learn a lot. Don't ask. This time, I think I'll get it pretty close by building a jig, and putting extensions on the sides of the saw to support it, and keep the pipe oriented. It doesn't have to be perfect, just pretty good. They are going to be gutters to catch the vertical fall of water from spraying the outside walls of the container. The roof will have regular guttering, and a pal of mine will come in and make me one 40' piece out of coil.
Steve
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