Garage door opener problem

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On Jun 10, 9:38am, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

I think that's pretty much the advice I gave. Make sure the door operates well manually. Then test and check the adjustments on the opener. What an opener with the optical sensors has or doesn't have isn't really germane to the problem he's having. He doesn't have optical sensors, he made that clear in his second post.
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wrote:

I think that's pretty much the advice I gave. Make sure the door operates well manually. Then test and check the adjustments on the opener. What an opener with the optical sensors has or doesn't have isn't really germane to the problem he's having. He doesn't have optical sensors, he made that clear in his second post.
========== This will be slightly more complicating (or annoying, actually) because the "professional" who replaced the springs last time tied the cables in a knot instead of installing hooks to attach to the metal strip with holes in it. Friggin' people....pass the ammo.
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wrote:

Been there, seen that :-) Hope you can manage it without getting new cable.
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wrote:

HD and similar have replacement cable. It may be easier to just cut the old ones and replace. Also, make sure if you have extension springs that they have safety cables on them as well.
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wrote:

HD and similar have replacement cable. It may be easier to just cut the old ones and replace. Also, make sure if you have extension springs that they have safety cables on them as well.
========== I'm going to walk into the store whose technician did the knot-tying thing and ask "Do you recommend tying the cable, or using hook assembly?" This is a trap - they've got the hook kits hanging right on their parts wall. With any luck, he'll say "Oh no - never tie the cables. That's sloppy." At that point, I'll hand him the receipt showing that his technician did the work. Who knows? This could be cheap. :-)
If not, than plan B goes into effect - do it myself.
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jamesgangnc wrote: ...

Well, the force limit switch _IS_ obviously germane to the problem or it wouldn't be reversing now, would it????
The other info in the posting may not be of direct benefit to OP; so be it, it's usenet and it cost him exactly what? _AND_, it might just happen to help somebody else either lurking at the moment or has a problem in the future that it rings a bell for as having seen it or in a future search on similar problems by somebody else.
Hardly worth making an issue over it would seem...
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The point is that it's silly to respond to a question by mentioning things which do not exist in the OP's (my) situation, like optical sensors. It's pretty much a confession that you never read the original question.
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JoeSpareBedroom wrote: ...

That's true I didn't (and still haven't) and I didn't respond at the original posting level, either, did I? I was prompted by a side remark somebody else made that jogged another thought...if it doesn't pertain, well, so be it, I didn't know it at the time. That there wasn't an optical sensor on the opener in question wasn't in the subthread to which I responsed; the mention was not referring specifically to the specific and it can be inferred as to what "ancient" means by many different folks having many different interpretations.
Again, hardly seems worth fussin' about; if you don't like/need a suggestion, go on to the next. It is, after all, usenet...
--
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I agree with Joe. People just clutter up posts with irrelevant info. It doesn't help the op. It'd be different if the post starts out as a discussion but it didn't. It was a specific problem looking for help. In Joe's case it doesn't matter much cause Joe has other background info and knows a lot about the topic already. But some people posting here are novices at the home repair stuff. It confuses them.
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JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

If the opener runs normally when the door is disconnected from the trolley, then door imbalance is the problem. Otherwise I'd check the limit switches and the downward force adjustment. Genie limit switches are adjusted by loosening their screws and moving them, and those screws can work loose. I believe the force adjustment doesn't actually measure force but motor RPM instead, and the RPM sensor may be a paddle wheel or chopper that interrupts an optical emitter and sensor (can get dusty -- blow out with air or aerosol alcohol). Some Genies also use a magnetic sensor to measure RPM, which should be trouble-free unless the magnet cracks (vibration) or its wiring breaks (also vibration). The force sensor can be affected by imbalance and binding, and if the trolley is plastic and slides along a tube, as is the case with Stanley openers, it probably should not be lubricated. OTOH when grease is required, try NGLI #1 because in cold areas the more common but thicker NGLI #2 can become too stiff.
The vibration from the motor can loosen screws and crack solder joints, especially those around heavier parts and cable connectors, and those cracks are often microscopic (IOW resolder everything).
Openers are supposed to automatically stop in about 20 seconds if they don't detect door closing or opening by then, and in old openers this was handled by a simple resistor-capacitor timing circuit. Maybe a rotting capacitor in this circuit might make the opener stop prematurely, but I'd think it's more likely to lengthen the allowed run time.
An opener old enough to not have a light beam may have electronics that can be repaired because all the parts are 100% generic.
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