Funny snow blower problem...

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Could it be ice??? I trashed one and the ten year old next door put dyr gas in it and wanted $20.00 to do my drive. He's $20.00 richer !!!
Jerry
http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/MyWoodWorkingPage
http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/1974RuppCentair
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 14:55:41 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Jerry - OHIO) wrote:

20 DOLLARS richer this time - and every time he uses it for hire.
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Existential Angst wrote:

Many of these small engine carbs have a built in fuel pump which consists of a diaphram that is driven by the pressure variations (pulses) in the intake manifold.
If that diaphram is cracked or there's a vacuum leak in that system, it won't pump its own gas. It will appear to run when primed, but that won't last long.
A carb rebuild kit should have the parts to remedy this problem.
--
Paul Hovnanian mailto: snipped-for-privacy@Hovnanian.com
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Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:

Yeah, there is a linkage that kind of pulses as the load changes. Off the carb, I can't quite see what it is linked to, tho, but I'll find out.
I can see a lot of small parts covering my workbench in my future....
I'm ackshooly perty terrified of carburetors... I feel the angst building..... :(
--
EA



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Existential Angst wrote:

Our Briggs & Stratton powered generator sometimes sticks at full throttle after a couple years of non-use. I looked at all the levers and rods and linkages to the carb, and decided to WD-40 one that wasn't moving. It was the rpm governor. Unsticking it fixes the problem.
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Existential Angst wrote:

That's the governor linkage, don't mess with it, except to be sure it is free to move,
You didn't say what make of engine you have, but if there's a float bowl, (bottom of carb, held on by a small bolt, drop it, (Clamp fuel feed line first) and look for goo. Give the whole area a good shot of carb cleaner, check that the float moves freely, and that the float hasn't got filled up with fuel. Put the bowl back on, making sure that the rubber ring gasket isn't pinched or misplaced.
Try it.
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 16:02:03 -0500, "Existential Angst"

That is called a governor.

Just remove the float bowl and clean it. Drain all the old gas, and start with fresh gas. DO NOT take the linkages apart if you are unfamiliar with them. If you do, use your digital camera to document exactly what it looks like at each stage of dissassembly.
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 13:11:52 -0700, "Paul Hovnanian P.E."

- which does NOT have a fuel pump. Most common problem is moisture in the gas - and the water blocking the main jet.. If at all possible, do NOT use ethanol fuel. Use premium if that's the only way to ensure getting ethanol free fuel. Premium will NOT hurt the engine, and runs it just fine. (So does 100LL AvGas - but you can't just go and buy that)
Fresh gas, drain the float bowl, and add some Sea Foam to the fuel to clean up the carb.
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Existential Angst wrote the following:

The other day I tried to start my 5500 watt portable generator. I didn't need it at the time, but was just starting it in case I did need it later during the snow storm. My generator is stored outside in the weather with a custom cover for it to keep rain and snow off it. I opened the gas valve, turned the switch on, and set the choke. I pulled and pulled, but could not get it to start for the life of me, whether it was full choke, half choke, or no choke. I sprayed some starter fluid into the air cleaner and it would run until it burned up the fluid and then died. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times with the fluid with the same results. I.figured it may have had ice in the tank or something clogging the gas line. I took a heat gun to the bottom of the tank where the fuel lever and fuel line comes out. I started up the heat gun and put my hand on the fuel lever and gas line in order to judge the distance for the heat gun, so I didn't burn the valve or line. A few minutes of heat later, I gave it some more starting fluid and tried it again and the generator started right up I don't know what the problem was, but warming the fuel lever and line seemed to have solved the problem, or maybe it didn't and the gererator just decided to start.
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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My generator does that somewhat. It's a lever choke and no primer. It's stored inside a shed and I only fire it up once every few months.
I pretty much bring the plug wrench by default, toss some gas in the cylinder and it always starts. Of course, once it's run a bit it will start normally. Since it always works, small inconvenience and I'm good with it.
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Existential Angst wrote:

Common problem. If you can prime it and it starts but doesn't rum you have a clogged main jet.
Take a picture of the governor linkage and the way it is installed. Pull the carb of and get a rebuild kit for it. Then visit a local NAPA or better parts store and get a carb cleaner basket with solvent. Pull the carb apart and soak it in the tank. Write down the number of turns on each needle unless you want to play for a while. Make SURE you check it for any plastic/rubber hidden parts first. Some use rubber seals around the shafts and you don't want those to get in the solvent. Pull the carb out and use air to blow the passages clean. Make sure you blow OPPOSITE the fuel flow. IE: on the jets blow from inside the carb out the jet. Put the carb together with the new parts and set the needles. Put it back on and run it. Add a small inline filter if it doesn't have one already. Then use GOOD gas and stabil. When you finish running it at the end of the day shut off the gas and run the carb down. You won't get all the gas out but it will be clear of the jets.
--
Steve W.

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wrote:

re: "Write down the number of turns on each needle unless you want to play for a while."
First seat the screw by tightening it down (count). Maybe It is 1 3/4 turns or less - just enough to seat the screw. Remember that number. Once cleaned, all dolled-up put the screw(s) in, tighten down and back the off the partial turns. of 1 3/4 or less. Works every time for me.
re: " parts store and get a carb cleaner basket with solvent"
Let the carb soak over night in the basket of solvent. Works best.
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Does it have a gravity feed? Does if have a blocked vent in the gas cap? Hand priming may be sufficient to deliver gas to the carb but a blocked vent may prevent free flow. Unscrew the cap and give it another try.
Do the cheap/easy stuff first and let us know the results.
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 16:57:08 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@netscape.net wrote:

If it runs with a loose gas cap then take a paper clip and clear the cap vent. These vents do get clogged.
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time - longer with a low fuel level than with a full tank, before quitting. Generally a plugged cap will start and idle, but will then die, usually under load. Backfiring from running lean GENERALLY precedes the quitting. Still, worth checking.
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snipped-for-privacy@netscape.net wrote:

Cheap/easy is good!!
But someone else mentioned a fuel pump.... How do I know if it's gravity feed or has a fuel pump?
A fuel pump.... goodgawd, perty soon g-d snow blowers will have ECU's, OBDII's....
--
EA



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wrote:

In EA's case, cheap/easy would be for him to hire someone to clean the driveway for him.

Better hope not, as obviously you are incapable of diagnosing a simple one cylinder engine. And from the symptoms, there is a very high probability that it all points to one thing. Several posters have already explained it to you. Hint: It ain't a fuel pump.
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wrote:

Because it starts up and runs for a few seconds, that tells me that the compression is good enough and that the coil is firing on time. Now to fix it........
First change the plug. Some plugs can run fine until it reaches a higher RPM. Since you said you could smell the gas, that is also a sign it could be a "gas fouled" plug which may fire, but not continuously.
If that dont' fix the problem, then move on to the fuel delivery system. There is little use cleaning the carb if you don't clean the tank and fuel lines too. Look in the tank and see if you see any foreign material in it. If it is a metal tank, look closely for rust. If there is rust, you must get that rust out or it will clog the carb again. so, cleaning the carb only will be a waste of time. If there is rust, remove the tank and take it to a radiator repair shop. They can remove the rust. Call them first to make sure they do this. Some shops only re-core, not clean anymore.
Good luck,
Hank
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 15:27:49 -0800 (PST), "Hustlin' Hank"

Gerry :-)} London, Canada
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:09:32 -0500, "Existential Angst"

Buy a can of "sea foam" fuel conditioner and follow the instructions. Might be a good idea to start with a fresh tank of fuel - preferably ethanol free (Shell Ultra in Canada is ethanol free)
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