Face Nailing roof

I have a garden shed that I need to re-roof. I put roll-roofing on 10 years ago and during one of our wettest winters of all time this year, it started to leak.
I followed the instructions to a "T" when I did this in 1996.....But in talking to a roofer, he asked if I "face-nailed" the roll roof. I had to ask him what he meant, and he explained that was when bare nail heads were left exposed.
Well, yes, I did, although I covered each nail with that black roofing tar stuff.
Anyway, as mentioned I followed the instructions on the roll roofing and they showed face-nailing, but didn't mention the tar, that was my own idea.
The roofer laughed and said, "yeah, they do say to face-nail don't they."
He then said if I hadn't face-nailed, I might have gotten another five to seven years. Since he wants $700 to three-tab the roof, I thought I'd go back to the $40 roll roofing job and do it myself.
But, If I don't face-nail, how DO I do this. I looked in the roofing books at the local library, but they don't seem to cover roll roofing.
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Buy a couple bundles of jet shingles. Laid like 3 tabs without the tabs.
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On 17 Apr 2006 10:17:03 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@mailcity.com wrote:

Large amounts of glue.
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snipped-for-privacy@mailcity.com wrote:

You use mastic to stick the lower side down. The best kind is made specifically for roll roofing. Comes in buckets or even caulk tubes. Roll out the roofing and let the sun heat and "relax" the material. Keep some bricks or something handy to hold down any wrinkles
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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OK, this is starting to make some sense. This is an easy roof, no hips, valleys, etc. just a staight line of plywood on a slope...
I start at the bottom, use this mastic stuff to keep the bottom edge stuck down and then move upward right?
Do I nail down the top of the starter and then overlap that with a second sheet that is stuck down with mastic, etc.?
When I reach the top, the top edge is then stuck down with mastic once again -- ?? -- any overhang?
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snipped-for-privacy@mailcity.com wrote:

Yes, I use a few nails to keep the corners down.

Correct.
When I reach the top, I usually use a piece of metal flashing to transition to another roof, or as a termination. I screw this down with roofing screws (with neoprene washers). You can use mastic to seal down the last piece if you want. I just like to use metal.
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Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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snipped-for-privacy@mailcity.com wrote:

How big is this garden shed? 10 x 10, 10 x 12? Second question is did you put the roll roofing across or up and down the roof slope? In any case, you did it the first time do it again. Just lay the roll roofing so that the seems of the original are covered.
Or just use 3 tab roofing at $40 a square you are looking at about $110 for a 10 x10 or 10 x 12 shed and you should be able to put it over the roll roofing and be finished with it in 3 hours if you are fast, 6 hours if you are slow.
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Try to find some half-lap roll roofing and follow the directions on the package.
Otherwise follow the direction to glue down the bottom 6" of the roll roofing.
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Colbyt
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