Electrical - convert 110v to 220v outlet using 12/2 w/ground

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Hi I have NM Romex 12/2 with ground currently running from my panel to a wellhouse and it's setup for 110 which is running one outlet for a light and the well pump. I need to install a new pump but it requires 220v. Assuming I convert my breaker to 220, can I use the existing 12/2 romex for the new outlet in the wellhouse or do I need to run additional wiring?
cheers, bigballer
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snipped-for-privacy@wetfoot.net wrote:

You can use the existing 12/2, but you'll have to dump the outlet / light since you won't have a valid neutral, just two hots (marking the white wire with red tape as the other hot) and a ground. You could potentially use a 220V light, such a commercial fluorescent or HID unit.
Pete C.
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Pete C. wrote:

He could also use a transformer to derive enough 110V for a lightbulb.
Or, a two-lamp fixture could be rewired in series; the white wire from each lampholder tied together would float, so the two bulbs would need to be the same wattage. (UL might not approve of this.)
Putting a 220V ballast in a fluorescent shop light might be the best option.
Bob
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zxcvbob wrote:

Certainly.
Pretty sure they wouldn't like it since it would leave a 240v differential across a single socket with the bulb out if the power was left on when changing bulbs like many people do.

Right or a nice little HID fixture like one of the 70 watt HPS.
Pete C.
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Pete C. wrote:

What's wrong with using the light and outlet? No worse than knob and tube...
Nick
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Not a recommended practice, especially in a location like a well house. You could get a small step down transformer to power the light and outlet
wrote:

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wrote:

Code violation. And yes, it is worse than knob and tube, because it would impose a voltage on the grounding conductor, thus energizing the entire grounding system. Not good.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Not much, and it seems equivalent. K & T has two hots and a neutral, no?
Nick
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snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

But in this case, you wouldn't have 2 hots and a neutral, he'd have 2 hots and a ground and no neutral. The existing neutral wire is being converted to a hot wire. With a few *very* specific (and obsolete but still grandfathered) exceptions, a grounding wire and a grounded wire (neutral) are not the same thing.
Bob
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We might use the ground wire as a neutral. K & T has no ground...
Nick
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wrote:

Reference the original post, which stated that it's NM (Romex) cable... the NEC flatly prohibits using using the bare wire in NM cable as the neutral conductor.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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So?
Nick
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Nick, you asked a question and received several valid answers, all based on two things: NEC, and safety. Why ask for advice if you're just going to flaunt it
wrote:

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I haven't seen any answers based on safety.
Nick
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All the answers were based on safety, regardless if you see it or not
wrote:

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Idiot.
<Plonk>
--
Jim McLaughlin

Reply address is deliberately munged.
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On 5 Aug 2006 16:32:38 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

Life following art.
You and the NEC are the perfect match! ;-)
-zero
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snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

Salvaging the 12/2wg cable (are you sure it's NM and not UF?) is not worth doing the job wrong. Now if it was 10 gauge cable and there's a metal well casing in the pumphouse, it would be tempting to put in a little 30A service entrance rated subpanel and overlooking the bare wire problem.
Bob
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wrote:

So running 240V *and* 120V loads on the same 12/2 NM cable is a Code violation.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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So?
Nick
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