I am replacing a some large portions of drywall. At the seam where
the new meets the old, there is a new tapered edge meeting the old
Should I ...
1. sand the old piece so that there is a groove to fit the joint
compound and tape?
2. build up the joint compound so that they meet level, sand and skip
taping so that it's even with the rest of the surface?
3. Build up the joint compound so that they meet level, then tape and
add more joint compound, leaving a bump?
4. Tear down the new stuff and reinstall with the tapered parts
removed, so that the pieces meet square edge to square edge, then do a
2 or 3?
Finishing a joint like that ESPECIALLY on a ceiling is ALOT of work even
for a pro. You almost always will see it. Your best bet is to remove the
rest of the old drywall to the corners or an inconspious spot. Sheetrock is
pretty cheap and hanging is alot easier DIY project than finishing...Good
luck with your project...
Actually, it's not on a ceiling. It's three horizontal sections that
run waist-high to the floor, with an inside corner between 2. Had a
I was initially thinking that I should strip the two walls, but
decided that I'd rather avoid doing the extra two corners, as well as
the ceiling/wall seams.
I think, with the lack of consensus, I'll follow my nose and try
RickH's suggestion, as well as following Harry's advice to use paper
rather than mesh tape.
These sort of repairs are the most common. It's rather rare that it's
worth the effort to rip out whole sections of board to expose tapered
edges - besides, the old tapered edge is currently filled with joint
compound and not a tapered edge anymore.
Cut back the damaged area as needed. Use a utility knife to cut off
just the very edge of the old work's cut paper face so there is a
smooth edge. Install new board, tape as usual. The mesh tape does
add a minuscule amount of depth, but that's usually due to people
either starving a paper-taped joint to get it as flat as possible, or
putting compound on too thickly to cover the mesh tape and avoid
burning through to the ends of the mesh fibers when sanding. The
difference in thickness is on the order of 1/16" and is rarely
noticeable unless the light rakes across the surface at a shallow
angle. If you want the thinnest, best tape and you like mesh, there
is a mesh tape designed to be used with Krack-Kote called Tuffglass
Fabric. It's as thin as a sheet of copier paper - about a half to a
third as thick as the regular joint paper tape.
I don't get your reasoning...You would rather have a big ugly butt joint in
the middle of a wall that will stick out like a sore thumb than do a couple
of extra corners???? Corners are simple compared to butt joints and
sheetrock is cheap. Whatever , you're the one that has to look at
I usually run my knife at an angle down the old untapered edge to put
a bevel on it. This will expose some of the plaster forward so the
compound grabs better. Then I just put tape over it with only about
1/2 inch overlapping the old edge and most of the tape in the tapered
valley. Then I mud it to fill the taper, then mud again to give the
old edge a longer feather and hide the tape. You never want to skip
the taping, if you dont use any tape you'll get a crack for sure.
Then I sand it smooth because to hide the tape on the old edge I
needed to cover 1/8 inch and feather down across to zero, thats why I
dont lay the tape too far onto the old sheet side.
Dunno what a pro would do. Me, I just tape it as if it were a
standard joint. Yes there will be a very slight bulge but it
shouldn't be much more than the thickness of the tap. DO NOT use the
mesh tape, you can't do a thin finish over that stuff. Paper tape
only for me on any flat seam.
Mud and tape the joint as usual. It won't be even, of course. Let it
dry. Then fill in the taper of the new piece and draw a wide knife
over it to level it off. Let it dry. Then mud and sand as if it were
a butt joint.
If possible, replace whole sheets and dig the tape and mud out of the
original tapers. It's more work up front but the end result is
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.