I'm not sure what I'm looking at in the picture. I don't understand
how someone got texture on the wall without getting it on the corner
tape. If the tape went on after, as in a repair, how did they keep
the compound from obscuring the texture adjacent to the tape?
It does look like the tape bubbled, then it's as Marson said, but it
is possible that they didn't smooth out the compound under the tape so
there's a solid bond but just more compound than needed to attach the
tape. In that case you'd just have to add more compound.
See if the tape is loose or if there is space behind - pop a bubble
if you can. That will tell you what you need to do.
That is how it looks to me, as well. It looks like the joint compound
was applied on a rough surface, rather than like there are bubbles
under it. If there are bubbles, they should sound a little hollow if
you tap on them. If not bubbles, then careful sanding and appl. of
might help get the surface a little flatter. It is tough to get the
texture to match the rolled texture, but sponging on a thick primer
might help match the rolled texture prior to final coat.
It appears that the corner was taped, but wasn't finished as well as
you'd like it to be. If that's the case, you can use a 5" joint knife
(putty knife) to apply joint compound. Do one side and let it dry before
doing the other. Without seeing what else is on the wall, my guess is
that the taper assumed that there would be a cabinet in that corner
covering up the angle.
If the tape is bubbled (not adhered) you'll need to remove it and
retape. Don't use fiberglass mesh tape. Paper tape is stronger and much
easier to use in this case.
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