DIY Radiant Heat System

I just finished putting in a Do It Yourself radiant heat (hot water) system in my bathroom, documented here: <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/miffedone/Radiant.heat.floor.1.html ">http://m embers.aol.com/miffedone/Radiant.heat.floor.1.html</A>
Now my wife wants me to put one in her bathroom as well. I learned a few things along the way, but if you have the time, take a look and give me any suggestions you have for the next time, as I would rather not do dumb things twice, if possible.
Thanks. You can reply to this address, it's a spam address, but I'll check it for the next couple weeks.
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Looks okay but a couple of points.
1) did you leave any air space between the insulation and the copper tubing?
2) Soldering a copper line in an enclosed space is something I don't like to do.
You probably did okay with the copper, but for the future job, I consider using PEX. You also want to think about reducing the water pressure in the system. I think the system will last longer.
BTW, did you install any kind of check valve on the water supply line?

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<<1) did you leave any air space between the insulation and the copper tubing?>>
Yeah. There's about 3 inches of "air space" below the tubing and above the insulation, and about 3 inches of "air space" above the tubing and the floor above.
<<2) Soldering a copper line in an enclosed space is something I don't like to do.>>
I agree with you. But then there are *dozens* of such joints all over the house - basically everytime the copper pipe turns a corner, so I figured "what the heck." (Famous last words, probably.)
<<You probably did okay with the copper, but for the future job, I consider using PEX.>>
I did think about it, particularly after investingatng the Ultra-Fin system. But I knew I wasn't going to have much heat in the pipes, and I thought the copper would bleed the heat better than PEX. It still wasn't enough, and I had to go with the mini-hot-water heater. Ah well. I may well use it upstairs in the wife's bathroom, now that I know.
<<You also want to think about reducing the water pressure in the system. I think the system will last longer.>>
Good idea. Thank you.
<<BTW, did you install any kind of check valve on the water supply line?>>
Um, no. I want any excess pressure to push back against the house supply rather than pop the pressure relief valve. Do you think that is a problem? (There IS a check valve in the closed system to make sure it runs the right way. )
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rather
IS a

YOU ARE RUNNING POTABLE WATER THROUGH THIS SYSTEM WITH NO CHECKVALVE?
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line?>>
(There
Oh...shit..thats almost funny, if it wasnt so sad.
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<<YOU ARE RUNNING POTABLE WATER THROUGH THIS SYSTEM WITH NO CHECKVALVE?>>
I'm sorry, I misunderstood.
The answer to your question is "no".
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My only thought was that I wondered why you pulled up the sub-floor? Why not just put tube over the sub-floor in a layer of mortar and set the tiles on top? Some drawbacks could be extra floor thickness and maybe you wanted to add extra insulation below - I guess.
I'm going to do my whole house (I'm in the middle of a major renovation) with a thin slab. I'm wondering what DYIs do? I want to minimize weight and thickness.
Thanks R
Anyway

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Congratulations for completing the project. I have seen heated bathroom floor using electric mesh (net) underneath the tiles. I dont know which one is more (energy) efficient and conventional?
Iam still scared of soldering (lead) or welding. Once I get off that point (or get hold to the toys/tools) I may try.
Good Job.
Sam.
snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Miffed One) wrote in message

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