I was not assuming that, I was simply stating that a standard 7 1/4 inch
Circular saw cuts deeper than 1.5 inches. What I did assume was that the
OP would recognize this statement for what it said and infer that he
was either mistaken in the 1.5" depth of cut limitation, or regard it as
a response to his request for recommendations of a differnt type of
saw that could make a 1.75" deep cut. My mistake was in assuming that
any other readers would also recognize this statement for what it was
worth withouth imagining what assumptions I might have had.
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
That's not the worst of it.
My first assumption was a small circ saw.
I've been using a 6 1/4 for years.
That almost got through 6" x 6" 's cutting 4 sides.
The waste broke off on the last cut and I hit the nubs with a file.
But he said Skil saw.
He might just have a jigsaw.
That's the first power saw I owned.
Not to change the subject, but your comment about a reciprocating saw being
versatile was made even truer recently when I discovered a SCRAPER blade for
It was just the thing for removing stick-on tile and I can imagine several
additional uses for such a blade, such as removing flaking paint, concrete
spills on the driveway, and (with suitable sharpening) sheep shearing.
If you can afford it, and think you will use it in the future, a 12" power
miter saw would be the best way to tackle these cuts. No need to get a
slider type saw. However, a miter saw won't be able to handle notches. For
that you would need to use the circ saw or handsaw then clean it up with a
The second option is to get a better circular saw that can cut deeper. Most
circ saws can cut through a 4x4 in two passes.
Otherwise, for a few cuts like this, a decent handsaw is often faster than
the time it takes to hook up an extension cord so you can use the power
saw. I have a Stanley "Shark Tooth" saw I picked up at the home center for
around $20 or so a few years ago. It's not as sharp as it used to be, but
I can still cut through a 2x4 in 5 seconds or less. A 4x4 would be no
problem. Just mark your cut on the lumber, then cut carefully with the
handsaw. I have a shop full of power tools, and still turn to my handsaw
for many quick cuts. It's portable, variable speed, cordless, inexpensive,
and takes very little storage space. :)
Either bite the bullet, and buy a 10" compound miter, OR
Get a couple of lath strips, about 3/8" thick by 1.5" wide, and nail them on
the board to be cut with small nails. Put them on both sides of the board,
and on the side where it will contact the guide properly. A little extra
work, but will give a nice looking cut.
Please go to my facebook page, Heart Surgery Survival Guide and LIKE me so I
can get my domain name.
And if you do that- you'll thank yourself every time you use it.
I'm with the others who don't care for the plan you picked -- but no
matter what the plan-- and no matter what else you build in the
future, being able to make precise cuts at slight angles always comes
I think if it was 1970 and I was building my shop again-
First I'd buy a compressor-- then I'd buy a compound miter saw. I'd
still buy the $100 HF compressor-- and if I knew I was going to live
this long I'd probably still buy the $500 Bosch compound miter.
I'd probably go with pencil lines and a handsaw-- but that'll work,
I got a good Dewalt at a yard sale. If I knew these saws were that good, I
would have definitely bought one sooner. The new ones with the laser are
the cat's meow. If you can figure the angles and transpose those to the
On Tue, 06 Sep 2011 16:48:08 -0500, " email@example.com"
I have a Craftsman 7 1/4" compound miter slider.
A 10" would have made it easier, but it did the trick when I was doing
new woodwork. I'm cheap.
Thought the laser was basically useless since I match my mark with the
Then I found myself trimming to fit.
That laser is nice. You can shave 1/32 easily using the laser.
More accurate than kerf matching.
Yep! I found it amazingly accurate. The only issue I have is that the laser
draws on the left edge of the kerf, so all measurements are to the left[*]
(unless you add the kerf).
[*] not a real problem, since I'm right-handed and my left is holding the
I'm left handed and still hold the wood that way. It would be awkward to do
I guess the laser could be handy, but I always bring the blade down and
touch the mark before starting the saw. That way, I'm sure my holding hand
is out of the way.
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