Condenser fan motor substitute

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I have a very old carrier condenser. I need a replacement fan motor. The current motor is a 5kcp39bg GE unit with the following specs:
RPM = 1100 HP= 1/10 HZ = 60 u = 208-230. A= .75 Rot Cap = 5.00/370.
What I am finding is no one has a direct replacement. Several mention using another horsepower motor but then the amps are different.
What would be "safe" to use if having to go up in horsepower/amps?
Also, my motor mounts to the top of the condenser lid with acorn nuts. Do any of the above numbers show the fit or proper spacing of the studs?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
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Stryped,
Here's a replacement (Amazon.com product link shortened) It's pricey but should be a drop-in replacement. Google has lots of these. Do a little research to find a better price. I'm amazed that your local appliance parts store can't help you out. The same starter cap should be ok. No idea about your "acorn nuts" question but I doubt any part of the model number speaks about motor mounting.
Dave M.
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On 8/11/2015 9:56 AM, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Grainger has it:
http://www.grainger.com/product/GENTEQ-Mtr-6DLL6?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP $149.25
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None of the numbers show the mounting . The Rot. CapP0/370 is the capacitor for the motor. Are you sure it is the motor and not the capacitor ? The capacitor s often go bad more so than the actual motor.
If you do change the motor make sure you get a capacitor to match the motor. The rating on the capacitor is 5 MFD with a voltage of 370 volts. YOu can and maybe should use one with a rating of 440 volts.

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The mountings are usually standardized.
Make sure you get the correct direction of rotation...
that was probably ROT = CCW or CW
some replacment motors can be wired for either CCW or CW.
THe fan will not work correctly if it is spinning the wrong way, and no you cannot simply mount the fan upside down to correct it.
Mark
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On Tuesday, August 11, 2015 at 1:24:13 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I guess we should add shaft length to the list. If he's buying a motor intended for condenser fans, they typically have a long one so that shouldn't be a problem, but just in case.....
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On Tuesday, August 11, 2015 at 10:56:41 AM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

You can almost certainly go up in hp, to a size that you can find. I say "almost certainly", because technically we don't know what's supplying the current to run the motor. It's usually driven right off the contactor/relay which could handle a bigger motor. The current isn't going to be drastically different anyway, because the actual load determines most of it and that isn't changing, ie it's still the same fan moving at same RPM.
The mounting locations are determined by the frame size. Whether it has studs coming out, which is what you want, you may be able to figure out from pics. I was having the same issue when trying to figure out how they mount to replace mine. That mounting is common for condenser fan motors and if you google and search for that you will find them.
As others have said, make sure you get a new cap as per the reqts of the new motor, not old one. And also, as someone said, it's possible your motor is OK and it's just the cap, which is a common failure.
I'd google to find the major motor manufacturers, then go to their website/catalogs, look for condenser fan motors and see what they have. Once you have a couple part numbers, you can google for the best prices.
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On Tuesday, August 11, 2015 at 12:16:41 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:

I replaced the cap about 2 years ago. Before it stopped working, it developed a screetching sound. When I took the fann off, I could reproduce the sound by spinning it by hand. I assume bad bearings.
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On Tue, 11 Aug 2015 12:27:45 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Bearings are cheap
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On Tue, 11 Aug 2015 16:28:28 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster

If the OP was going to call a contractor, we would not be having this conversation. OTOH bearings are about $10 each, less if you got them online (then more like a couple bucks) and would take 20 minutes to replace once you got the motor on the bench.
I fix pump motors all the time and I keep a bunch of the common bearings here.
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On Tue, 11 Aug 2015 22:23:54 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster

Interesting. I didn't even suspect that.
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Look for the frame number on the motor nameplate. Get a motor with the same frame number and the mounting should be the same.
http://www.motorsanddrives.com/cowern/motorterms2.html
John Grabowski http://www.MrElectrician.TV
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On 08/11/2015 12:40 PM, John G wrote: ...

That's not going to have a NEMA frame; it's a vendor-specific mount for the purpose. He'll probably have to adapt something if can't find the OEM replacement.
--



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On Tuesday, August 11, 2015 at 1:51:52 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:

I have to disagree. I replaced mine a couple months ago. As I recall it was identified by frame size and it wasn't vendor specific. Many of them are interchangeable. In my case I had a Rheem AC and replaced a fancy ECM motor with a basic split phase. Both had identical mounting studs, with nuts that go on from the top of the fan housing.
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On Tue, 11 Aug 2015 12:03:41 -0700 (PDT), trader_4

If you go to the grainger site and go through the condenser fan motor selector, frame size is one of the questions.
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On 08/11/2015 2:03 PM, trader_4 wrote:

I suppose I stand corrected... :) I guess should've figured there are standardized mounting configurations for those as well given the volume produced, although seems like I never can find anything that fits whatever it is that _I_ have... :(
--


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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Good price, prompt shipping.
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Great source, TH ! Many thanks.
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take the motor to grainger, their counter guys are excellent at finding a match.
anone who smokes today needs their head examined.
australia has the right idea, raise tobacco tax a buck a pack yearly forever.
year one 1 dollar extra, year 5 5 dollars extra.....indefinetely:)
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wrote:

That sounds like how we got the drug war here. Now there's a great idea.
When will we learn about the failure of "prohibition"?
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