That is from someone elses post in this group.
Someone asked about why they would get shocked when they touched their stove
and a rack that holds the cooking pots that is on the wall. That rack was
fastened to the wall with somelag bolts and no electricity or ground to the
Seems that one of the screws holding it to the wall had gone into a wire
that was behind the wall. When touching that rack that was then connected
to a hot wire and the stove that was acting as a gound the current would
flow. Touching the stove or just the rack would not give a shock.
Something that many will not think about.
On Thu, 21 Jan 2016 18:50:19 -0500, Ralph Mowery wrote:
Yikes. A screw holding a metal rack touching a hot wire.
Most of the time I hear of people getting shocked by stoves is when
some homeowner wires the stove backward (if its 110VAC).
Apparently they seem to think that a neutral is the "same" as the hot wire,
since the stove still works either way.
On Thu, 21 Jan 2016 21:47:08 -0000 (UTC), "E. Robinson"
At least you got this far without getting electrocuted.
Was anything plugged into outlets on that circuit?
Could be one of them.
Could be the breaker has a small piece of plastic or other thing stuck
NOW is the time to determine what outlets and lights are on that
circuit. If it blows again, unplug everything and shut off all those
lights. If it still blows, buy a new breaker for $5. *Shut off your
outside MAIN*, replace the breaker with new one.
If that fixes it, you know the breaker was failing. If it trips the new
one, you probably should call an electrician, or you may have a fire.
But if you keep the main power off, I suppose you could remove and
carefully look at each light fixture all wirenuts, all wires, check for
any bad or frayed wires, loose screws, etc. Same for all outlets on that
Take your time and look at EVERYTHING CLOSELY.
On Fri, 22 Jan 2016 01:17:05 -0000 (UTC), "E. Robinson"
I would replace it too.
Easiest way to trace outlets is with a plug in radio. Plug it in, (LOUD)
shut off breaker. If it stops playing, that outlet is on that breaker.
Saves a lot of running around. Lights are a lot easier. Turn all of them
on. Shut off that braker and see which ones go off.
You could have an outdoor outlet on that breaker too and that is why
rain effected it. Check them too. Outdoor ones should be a seperate
breaker and have a GFI outlet, but that dont mean it was wired properly.
Dont forget range hood, exhaust fans, heat tapes, garbage disposal
furnace, basement/attic outlets and lights, sump pump, etc.
I like to trace my whole house and write it, and hang it near the box.
Those diagrams on the breaker box door are never big enough.
You could have water leaking into your breaker box if the entrance head
is loose or cracked (if it's overhead wires). I have seen that happen!
On Thursday, January 21, 2016 at 9:01:35 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I have *had* that happen. When it happens, the water will run inside the outer jacket
of the service cable, even uphill, and enter the box.
When I had my problem, it was after an ice storm that pulled the cable off of the house.
Before I had a chance to fix it at the top of the house, I was getting water in the box
during thaws. There was a dip in the cable where it ran horizontal before coming into
the house. That dip was the lowest part of the cable, so the water was running uphill
(slightly) before it came into the house. Think of a trap, but much, much shallower. Just
a dip. I cut a tiny slit in the outer jacket at the bottom of the dip and water dripped out
for a few minutes. I never got any more water in the box after that. In the spring I fixed
the cable at the top of the house then siliconed the slit.
Is your meter located indoor near the panel then? In our neighborhood no
over hang wires at all electroic feeder comes up from the bottom of
exterior wall into mounted meter, right behind meter is panel on inside
On Thu, 21 Jan 2016 23:27:56 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote:
The meter is outside.
There is a power pole about 25 feet away with a transformer on it, just
The wires go into the ground at that point, and then come back up into the
meter on the OUTSIDE of the attached garage.
I just posted elsewhere in this thread about a situation that I once had
where water was getting into the meter box on the outside of the house, then
ran down INSIDE the feed wire from the meter box to the panel insode the
house, and the water dripped into the panel from INSIDe tha feed wire. So,
even if the feed wire to the house is underground, it is possible for water
to get into the panel box from inisde that feed wire. Again, unlikely, but
On the property where I had the water-inside-panel problem, there is a drip
loop up at the top of what I think maybe is called the mast head (or
something like that), where the power line from the pole meets the service
drop that goes down into the top of the meter box.
Where it comes out of the bottom of the meter box, there is no drip loop.
It just runs down into the building and into the top of the electric panel.
I don't know that I have ever seen a drip loop on that part of the service
line coming into a building (below the meter), but I never really looked
carefully to see if there is a drip loop there. Since the water was coming
from inside the meter box (getting in through the top of the meter box), and
was running INSIDE the wire going from there to the panel, I don't know if a
drip loop in that line would have prevented the problem of water getting
into the panel inside the house.
I may be wrong about this, but I think the purpose of a drip loop is to have
water that is on the outside of the wire drip off at the low point of the
loop rather than running down on the outside of the wire into a structure
But, I think that any water that is INSIDE a conduit will continue to flow
inside that conduit down into the drip loop then back up and then down again
to the lowest point in the conduit down below. If it were water inside a
hose, as new water flowed into the hose at the top of the hose the water
inside the hose would continue flowing down to the lowest point further down
at the end of the hose. This would be similar to a sink drain and trap --
where the trap is in effect a "drip loop". Similarly, water on the outside
of the sink drain would drip off at the bottom of the trap. But water
inside the drain line would continue to flow down to the end of the drain
line and would continue past the "drip loop"/trap.
In the scenario that I had where water was getting inside the conduit and
going into the panel, if the conduit had a drip loop in it, I could have cut
a small slit in the conduit wrap at the bottom of the drip loop to let the
water inside the conduit drip out there rather than continue down into the
panel inside the house in the basement. Of course, that would only have
been a temporary fix until I corrected the problem of water getting inside
the conduct from the meter box. In my case, there was no such drip loop in
that part of the conduit (from the bottom of the meter to the panel below
inside the house in the basement).
The water is not IN the conduit. It gets into the meter box, and with
no drip loop the water runs down the cable into the conduit (which
goes out the back of the meter box), With the loop, it runs down the
wire to the bottom of the loop and drips off - then runs out drainage
hole at the bottom of the meter box
Maybe we are not both talking about the same thing. I am not exactly sure
what the term "conduit" means, but in my case I was using the term "conduit"
to mean the heavy gauge, gray-wrapped, "service feed" that runs from the
bottom of the meter box down into the building and into the top of the
electrical panel inside the basement. It is the same kind and gauge of
cable as the service drop that comes down along the outside of the building
and goes into the top of the meter box.
Using my definition of "conduit" to mean that cable that runs from the
bottom of meter box down into the building and into the top of the panel, my
"conduit" DID have water running INSIDE that conduit and into the panel.
The water was not running down the outside of the "conduit", it was INSIDE
the gray-wrapped cable and came out of the inside of that gray-wrapped cable
and dripped into the panel.
Yes, of course
I thought that you wrote earlier that there must be a drip loop in the
conduit that I was describing as part of the code requirements when you
But, maybe we were talking about two different things.
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