Changing sink hot water shut off valve

Need sage advice on how to removing an old leaking hot water shut-off valve and salvage the nut. Can't budge the nut and has bimetal corrosion. Would anything work better than std penetrating oil or WD40?
Normally I would cut the pipe and install new nut, etc. Long story, but the pipe is inaccessible from both sides of the wall. Old built-in vanity cabinets - big project to move. Can reach the nut & valve with wrenches but not with saw or pipe cuttter without tearing out the cabinet.
Thanks in advance!
Fred
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This is what you use to remove the nut:
http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/attachments/plumbing/10772d1217798774-old-compression-nut-compression-sleeve-ferrule-20puller-20and-20handle-20remover.jpg
but I dont trust compression nuts, especially when the end of the pipe gets messed-up trying to remove it so when I do remove them this is what I solder on to the end of the pipe:
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/16/16f5cecd-f09b-476e-8220-1e2ebe1b1d44_300.jpg
You will be glad you did especially if you have expensive hardwood floors and take long vacations.
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Fred "Fred" Fred wrote:

Heat? Use a heat shield/any metal & wet rags to help control flames/heat.
Hate to say bang on the nut, cause doing that may break the line. However, when working on hydraulic lines, a couple of good whacks right on the nut breaks it free.
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I've had some results with Castle Thrust has worked in some situations. (Amazon.com product link shortened)52407440&sr=8-2&keywordsstle+thrust+penetrating+oil
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Like the time I was trying to free up a headlight adjuster. I'd tried several sprays and lubes. Castle worked, very nicely. Mine found at Nu Way Automotive.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
Need sage advice on how to removing an old leaking hot water shut-off valve and salvage the nut. Can't budge the nut and has bimetal corrosion. Would anything work better than std penetrating oil or WD40?
Normally I would cut the pipe and install new nut, etc. Long story, but the pipe is inaccessible from both sides of the wall. Old built-in vanity cabinets - big project to move. Can reach the nut & valve with wrenches but not with saw or pipe cuttter without tearing out the cabinet.
Thanks in advance!
Fred
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Fred "Fred" Fred wrote:

PB Penetrating Catalyst, in the yellow spray can at your auto parts shop.
A twenty-year supply costs about $3.00. The can will never go empty because you don't use much.
Honest-to-God, it's good stuff !
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On 11/08/2012 07:34 AM, Fred "Fred" Fred wrote:

Oh god, it's happening.
Jon <-- running towards the bunker with reckless abandon, every man for himself, leaving the room frozen in time, exactly as it was before my hasty departure, as the sound of a well-practiced sequence of no less than one-half dozen commercial-quality deadbolt locks can be heard engaging structural steel jamb risers from a military-grade reinforced door.
In the distance, a solitary hand can be seen slowly reaching for a half-empty can of WD-40, unaware of the sequence of events it has brought into motion, the consequences of which will be felt for generations to come.
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For millions of Alt Home Repair readers, they are blissfully unaware of the ripple that has been caused in space. None will even hint of dream of the universal calamity which has befallen, another dimension of time, space, and lubrication. Because those half dozen deadbolts were earlier sprayed with a substance that has been known to shift the time space continuum.
Rod Serling Twilight Zone .
wrote in message

Oh god, it's happening.
Jon <-- running towards the bunker with reckless abandon, every man for himself, leaving the room frozen in time, exactly as it was before my hasty departure, as the sound of a well-practiced sequence of no less than one-half dozen commercial-quality deadbolt locks can be heard engaging structural steel jamb risers from a military-grade reinforced door.
In the distance, a solitary hand can be seen slowly reaching for a half-empty can of WD-40, unaware of the sequence of events it has brought into motion, the consequences of which will be felt for generations to come.
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On 11/08/2012 07:34 AM, Fred "Fred" Fred wrote: > Need sage advice on how to removing an old leaking hot water shut-off > valve and salvage the nut. Can't budge the nut and has bimetal > corrosion. Would anything work better than std penetrating oil or > WD40?
Oh god, it's happening.
Jon <-- running towards the bunker with reckless abandon, every man for himself, leaving the room frozen in time, exactly as it was before my hasty departure, as the sound of a well-practiced sequence of no less than one-half dozen commercial-quality deadbolt locks can be heard engaging structural steel jamb risers from a military-grade reinforced door.
In the distance, a solitary hand can be seen slowly reaching for a half-empty can of WD-40, unaware of the sequence of events it has brought into motion, the consequences of which will be felt for generations to come.
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On Thu, 8 Nov 2012 07:34:34 -0800, "Fred \"Fred\" Fred"
salvage the nut. Can't budge the nut and has bimetal corrosion. Would anything work better than std penetrating oil or WD40?
I love wd-40 but I wouldn't use it were penetrating oil is called for. Liquid Wrench or something else.

pipe is inaccessible from both sides of the wall. Old built-in vanity cabinets - big project to move. Can reach the nut & valve with wrenches but not with saw or pipe cuttter without tearing out the cabinet.
The puller the firstr reply referred to is a gear puller, or (splined) handle puller. A nut has to be unscrewed or cracked. It can't just be pulled off.

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