casement windows leaking water


There is a problem with a few casement windows on the side of my house. During window-driven rain, they tend to leak water from the top gap where the window shuts. These windows generally don't shut very tight at the very top (either due to not being well-aligned or maybe being warped.) I'm wondering if this problem is generally solvable by replacing/enhancing the rubber seals/gaskets rather than having to bother replacing the entire window.
There are two types of seals that likely could use replacement:
1) There is some type of rubber seal on top of the window frame (the one which holds the glass panel) and it is works a flap that is supposed to point upward and make contact with the top of the outermost frame when the window is shut. It seems to me that this is the most important seal to prevent water leakage.
2) There is also a rubber gasket around the entire perimeter of the inner frame which the window's frame presses against when shut. This gasket fits looks like it is attached by flap that fits within the grove within a groove. Other than the flap which sticks in the groove, it looks sort of like a rubber tube.
If the leak is coming from the top gap where the window shuts, then could a window-repair expert easily solve this by replacing the seals, or is replacing the entire window my only option?
Thanks.
J.
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I am an Andersen Window Service Provider and this sounds like an Andersen window! Very easy repair. What you need to acquire is 1/8" or 3/16" rubber backer rod. Open the wndow up and get to the top of the open sash. Cut a length of backer rod the width of the sash. Take a stiff putty knife and press the backer rod under the flap to make it spread more open. Close the window and the seal should be tight. Sometimes you have to use different sizes of backer rod to get the flap to touch the head jamb.
You can replace the sash w/s around the perimeter, but it sounds like your problem is at the top of the sash.
That should do it!
jocobe
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Thanks. Where do I get the backer rod? Would using a piece of d-shaped frost king rubber weatherstrip work?
Not sure if the windows are Anderson, but they are likely a similar window to Anderson. By the way, one of the windows seems to have an mysterious additional problem in which the thin wooden frame, on the inside of the window, which holds the glass panel in place seems to get saturated with water even when there is absolutely zero evidence of water dripping down from the top. I suspect water is wicking through from the outside where the frame holds the glass panel. Could this be solved just be putting some clear silicone on the outside where the glass panel meets the frame that is holding it?
Are you in the NJ by any chance?
Thanks,
J.
<<I am an Andersen Window Service Provider and this sounds like an Andersen window! Very easy repair. What you need to acquire is 1/8" or 3/16" rubber backer rod. Open the wndow up and get to the top of the open sash. Cut a length of backer rod the width of the sash. Take a stiff putty knife and press the backer rod under the flap to make it spread more open. Close the window and the seal should be tight. Sometimes you have to use different sizes of backer rod to get the flap to touch the head jamb.
You can replace the sash w/s around the perimeter, but it sounds like your problem is at the top of the sash.
That should do it!
jocobe>>
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The backer rod is round. Probably the easiest thing for you to find is screen spline from a hardware store. That should do it!
A silicone bead where the frame/sash meets the glass should keep the water out.
Thanx for asking, but I'm in Maryland!
jocobe
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On concrete latex is best as water in the pot will make oil fail by pushing out as latex is permeable. Go to a real paint store, Google doesn`t have them yet.
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Many windows now have 15-20 yr warranty, it could be a latch was never set to pull tight, winow out of square, rubber is old. See how far rubber is out, measure it, use a dollar bill on a closed window it should not pull out. A factory tech could diagnose and fix it fast.
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objac had written this in response to http://www.thestuccocompany.com/maintenance/casement-windows-leaking-water-11312-.htm : Hello,
I've found the same issue with our Anderson crank casement windows leaking from the top. Could you share with me how you addressed your issue?
Thank you, Jacob
jay wrote:

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Have Coradco (now called Jenn-Weld) 10 yo windows and doors with similar but not identical problems which I have unsuccesfully been trying to deal with for a year or more. Some of the seals are rubber but others are relatively hard plastic. Jenn-Weld is next to impossible to deal with. What are sources for the plastic and rubber seals? I feel that generic ones will do provided they are identical.
Will also need to replace some of the rotted lower horizontal wood. Have purchased only book on repairing casement windows which I could find and it is of no help. Any suggestions?
Will also need to replace handcrank on one window but it appears part of the wood frame will have to be drilled through to access screws to remove it; am I correct in this thought?
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C.R. Laurence would be a good source for the moldings and gaskets.
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On Aug 30, 12:38pm, jacob.driskill_at_gmail_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (objac) wrote:

And this is a 4 yr old question-post, OP might even have moved by now.
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