bosch 5315 circulation pump failure

Hi all, The dishwasher sat in our storage shed for 6 months while we remodeled the kitchen. re-installed, it does everything but wash dishes :-( The water comes in, it heats up, then there is a humming sound instead of the whooosh-whoosh. Then it drains and says "CL" (clean). I opened it up (panel at the right side would have been the best place to open, but I tried several places first...) and I can see the circulation motor sort of twitch - it rotates about ten degrees when the relay switches it on. (The motor gets pretty warm if I let it sit that way for the rest of the cycle.) I can turn the motor by hand (with the unit unplugged of course) but it doesn't spin freely. I don't feel anything crunching or catching. I tried puting the starting cap on a C-meter and it reads 10uF (as marked) and less than 1 ohm.
Any ideas? Are the seals binding so badly that the motor won't start or is the motor dead or do I need to replace the starting cap? If it's the seals, any suggestions on how to make them slippery again?
TIA, Bob
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snipped-for-privacy@excite.com (Bob) wrote in message
Hi,

Part of the model#.

*Might* be able to go in from the inside ( remove screens )with a socket and small extention to manually turn the implellor ( 5/16" I believe ) with the rachet and socket to break the motor and pump assy free again.
Very possible it is stuck/welded still from sitting :(

If too stuck new seal kit may be in order or a new motor....
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R 3&N5404 Impeller assembly with gasket
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R 3&N5596 Motor, circulation pump
I used SHU5315UC-06 for the examples above.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Thanks jeff,

full model number is SHU5315UC/U11

It isn't frozen - it just has a great deal of friction. Is this normal? should the circulation pump be able to overcome the friction?
I can see the parts using the links below, but I can't get anything using the repairclinic parts detective with my actual model number (or even using the model that you used). What gives? How did you do it? Do I need to sign in? The good news is that those links you gave me list prices that are about half what I found on my own - thanks!
Anyway, the big question is: if I take apart the pump housing and impeller assy will I be able to reassemble them with the old gaskets? (and not have a probable leak, that is)
Thanks again, Bob

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Jeff, I should have listened to you! I was turning the other end of the motor and convinced myself that the impellor was not stuck.
The repair guy showed up today, reach inside (I still had the unit partially disassembled) with a 8mm socket on 3" extension, twisted it for a couple of seconds and said "fixed". Doh! Oh well, at least he stayed for the full half hour of billing and swapped out the controller on waranty (the dreaded "BOSCH 531X heater relay conection failure" that I had already fixed myself). He also ran some turbidity sensor tests and cycles until the T sensor returned to spec. He said that in all the years he's been doing this he's only had to change a couple of motors. 95% of trouble can be handled without even pulling the DW out of the cabinetry. Other 5% is usually a kinked/split drain hose due to poor installation. Nice guy. I'll call him again if I need to.
Bob - $95 poorer but happy to have a DW again -

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Hi,
Thankx for the update!! Glad to hear your up and running again :)

Glad to her that!! We are used to hearing more complaints than compliments.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Bob,
In moving dishwashers, there's small items in the drain and related components that can get jarred loose and seize the motor impeller. You'll need to take it apart to see what's plugging it up.
Dave
snipped-for-privacy@excite.com (Bob) wrote:

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Will I need to replace the gaskets after taking the impeller assy apart? the only price I've found so far on that kit is $132 :O The motor/impeller can be turned by hand, BTW, it just doesn't spin freely.
Bob
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