For those that can help out, here goes.
First, it will be of great visual aid to check out these pictures:
Now, I have a 6 zone inground sprinkler system, it's old, but I don't know
how old. The house is 23 years old now, possible it's that old? Anyway, it
uses the above valve control unit. The system runs off my city water. The
black piece above the shutoff valve is a hunter control unit that connects
to a K-Rain Hydrotek 2114 timer unit.
The timer is very basis, you set the days you want it to work, the times,
and put it into auto mode. I've never used it in auto made since I just
today got all the pipes/heads fixed. The valve works in that for every time
you turn it on/off, it changes a zone. I imagine in automode, the valve has
a pre-set timer and it changes a zone. No idea how long each zone is, but I
know it's > 8 minutes at least.
Anyways, I want to update my valve/control units to be more modern.
Something where i can say run Zone 1-3 only, or turn on Zone 2 only. It's a
PITA to have to turn this thin on/off 5 times to get to a particular zone,
plus I can't easily water select areas of the lawn if they need more/less
I'm CLUELESS about valves/controllers, so I'm looking for info on how I can
make this more modern.
manifold and run six separate valves ,and while you're doing that
might as well put it all underground. I look at that and think who's
going to run into it and break it. any modern controller will do what
you're asking for. I would join poly up to the pvc as the corners are
a little easier to do. Any irrigation supply store should help you out
on what you need.
I'm not very familiar with valve/control units, but is it something as basic
as I'd put 1 valve per zone pipe, and each valve has a control unit inside
of it that opens/closes it? Then I'd have 6 separate sets of wires running
back to the control unit?
Putting it underground would be nice, but that would be a lot of digging in
that area, and I have my gas feed coming in right there not sure if I'd have
enough room. I'm going to actually mini-fence in this entire area.
it that's basicly a magnet when it is energized it pulls a plunger up
that equalizes the pressure in the valve thus opening it .you already
have one control valve on the supply line.The only way I can see you
doing it without building a new manifold is to take the top of your
k-rain timing unit off and there should be a cam inside that controls
what line is supplied with water.remove it, put it back together and
install control valves on each line going out to the zones,remove your
main control valve glue a piece of pvc in so that water is supplied
all the time to the lines.Helpfull hint,when gluing joints make sure
pipe is clean turn it half a turn when inserting and wait the
specified time before turning on the water, as a leaky joint can
definitly ruin your day, also make sure there is a way you can take
the valves off without cutting your pvc, I see they just glued the
control valve on.great till it breaks.threaded control valves and a
little teflon tape works great. I see that th e k-rain timer has an
anti-siphon valve built into it, so you should probably get a backflow
valve just to be on the safe side.Most solenoids run on 24 volts dc so
any hunter/rainbird etc. timer should work.use the waterproof
marrettes as a short can fry your controller pretty fast.Best of Luck
Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to remove the k-rain zone unit and
controller and start fresh.
This sound somewhat like what should be done:
1) Remove k-rain controller and valve control unit from 6 zone supply lines
2) Remove Hunter valve (looks like an SCV).
3) Place a right andle on the water supply line
4) put a backflow device in place, maybe an inline filter too?
5) Build a manifold with 6 valve in a row, use thread on valves
6) Pipe each valve back down into the control units
Few questions I hav about this are:
-Should I use an inline filter if I'm using city water?
-How far apart should valve get spaced
-Insstead of having the valve float above the ground, I could have them sit
in a box on top of the ground for more protection, but this means I've have
2 90degree turns off the supply line, and then 2 or 3 90degree turns to go
into the zone pipe feeds. Would this be too much bending and restrict water
Thanks again for the assistance. I think I have one last question.. what
valve would you recommend? The valve on the system currently is a Hunter
PCV. I have Hunter PGP rotors and rainbird sprays. I've seen Hunter ICV's
recommended but they are way to expensive for what I want to spend. I'm
more at $20/valve range instead of $60-70.
The Irritol 2400 came recommended heavily as well.
What would you recommend for a controller? I'd ideally like something
similar to an A/C thermostat where i can have different schedules for the
days, run different zonmes when I want to, etc.
I've used the hunter srv valves on numerous residential applications
and had no problems with city water (40-50 psi on 3/4" supply lines
from the street).I use the icv on the course in the rough through 2"
lines and running 80-110 psi so they're very durable but you pay for
it.one problem with the srv's is the the 1"fitting but you can bush
that down without any noticable effects on water pressure/volume.
I've also used the src controller on installations.I pay about $60 cdn
wholesale for them. the hunter pro c controller sounds like what you
want but unsure on the price but I expect it to possibly be twice as
much or more as the src so you might want to balance out cost versus
conveniance. the src has 3 programs on it so that might meet your
needs on scheduling it also has a manual setting(one zone,all zones).I
remember seeing one controller at a trade show that runs off a home
computer but the brand name escapes me.
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