I've drained these tanks but it takes forrrrreeeeeevvvver to do. Even the
new one at the cabin. I was thinking about holding a hose connected to the
exhaust port of a shop vac around a hot water spigot, sealing as much as
possible with a rag and a firm grip, to pressurize the tank. Sounds like it
should work. Do you folks see a downside to this??
MY tricks that I use at MY cabin are these:
When you hook up the drain hose, pull the pressure relief thingie so that it
lets air in. If possible, have a setup where you can actually put water IN
the outlet to blow out crud that may be blocking it. They are simple and
cheap to make from pieces of hose and connectors. I also open up every and
all the water lines in the place AFTER, of course turning off the water.
If yours is draining slow, there is not enough air going in, or an
obstruction somewhere. If you DO make the setup for putting water into the
drain spout, just run it for a second or two, and not a long time.
Obstructions should move along quickly, and running it for longer would do
no more good.
**That's it** !! The pressure relief valve to allow more air in. I felt
that it seemed starved for air hence my feeble solution with the shop vac.
All due respect to those who suggested the sediment issue - legit for the
home tank but not the cabin which is new. I'll probably attempt your
reverse flow to the outlet to stir the bottom of the tank.
The trick that I tried most recently is similar - I used an
air compressor to "push in" thru an opened hot water faucet,
and out thru the HWT tank bottom drain line. Going _very_ gently.
While the HWT tank is capable of handling 200PSI or so, and the
compressor has difficulty getting to 100PSI, I never let the HWT
pressure get above about 10PSI.
The shop vac should work almost as well.
[I have to use pressure to blow it, because the HWT is _below_
the septic tank level, and I can't use gravity feed.]
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
My children did not have any trouble exhausting the hot water supply
while taking their 'extended' showers. They would complain that 'the
water got cold'. I would not consider 15-20 minutes to be a long time
for 40 gallons to exit through the small hose-bib connection.
Waht's the goal? If you just want to flush otu the scale, just hook a
hose and run to a drain. Open the valve,a nd wait awhile.
If you want an empty tank, then the shop vac pressure idea is
Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
Oddly, Sormin', I need to remove the heated water because of bacteria growth
in the tepid water which makes it smell of sulfur. When I drain it between
visits I have no such problem. The speed of draining is an issue in the
winter for the most part.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.