am I using the recipricating saw correctly?

For some reason, when I use a recipricating saw to cut something, I always had trouble at the end of the cutting.
Say a PVC pipe that is already in the ground and I made a trench to expose it. The pipe is 2" in diameter, I exposed enough of the soil to make sure the blade when fully extended would not cut into some stones or pebbles or roots. I start the cut, no problem, it's ripping through real nice and smooth, but when I am 75% of my way through, the pipe and saw started shaking and vibrating violently to make the cut exceedingly difficult.
Now this is probably because the enough of the pipe has been cut so it no longer is "biting" onto the blade hard enough so the blade wanders?
Is it because I am not holding it tightly enough?
Or is this related to the quality of the saw?
Ot should I always cut something from both directions - instead of starting a cut and carry it all the way through, cut it half way then start the cut from the opposing side and meet in the middle?
Thanks,
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Use a shorter blade, keep the saw firmly against what you're cutting, use lighter or firmer pressure, and practice. :-)
--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
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On Nov 17, 11:50 am, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

One reason for the bucking could be binding. As you put pressure on the pipe while cutting, you are closing the kerf causing the pipe to grab the blade.
Try bracing or wedging the pipe so it doesn't bind.
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

You are not bracing the material against the saw plate hard enough. You can't allow the material to move or else that is what happens.
--
Claude Hopper :)

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You need to brace at least one "end" of the pipe with something. Just holding the pipe and pulling it hard against the foot of the saw might do it. Or, a brick or board slipped under the pipe so you can push down firmly as you cut.
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On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 08:50:59 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Dan is right. When you are cutting and putting pressure into the cut it tends to close the kerf and pinch the blade. The trick is to brace the material such as to hold the kerf open. In the case of a pipe in the ground I would drive a stake in on the side opposite of the cut and wedge the pipe over some while you are doing it to stress it the other way. When you cut the kerf will open. Actually I prefer a cable saw for cutting a pipe in the ground. It is almost as fast as the sawzall, no power required and you don't have these problems. Step on it with your foot to stabilize it. You can even do it with the nylon string you use for site layout.
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On Nov 17, 10:50 am, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

You are not using the latest design SawzAll. These have a different mechanism from most others on the market. The net effect is a lot less recoil, hence smoother cutting with reduced shaking of the work piece. Read the blurb about it on the MIlwaukee web site for more detail. From personal experience, I upgraded to the 13 Amp model from the older 10 Amp and have used it extensively in a major home rehab. Even one handed cuts were possible on overhead 2 x 10's with little kick back. Well worth the extra $$ IMO.
Joe
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wrote:

Too much downward pressure of the saw's shoe on the pipe may have bowed it, causing the blade to bind in the kerf.
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On Nov 17, 11:50 am, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Hose clamp a piece of wood to the pipe to keep it stiff, cut through into the wood. Light even pressure enough to keep the chips flowing with the shoe tight to the pipe.
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