I am planning on putting in 4 additional recessed lights in my family
room (there are two
existing that are pointing at my fireplace). I have a two questions:
1) Above the family room is my attic, which is easily accessible. Can
I buy the new construction kind, or should I get the remodel ones? The
new construction ones
seem to be a lot sturdier looking and maybe easier to install? (I just
have to move
the installation out of the way above, install it, and then put the
Is it that easy?
2) How do the "airtite" housings seal against the drywall ceiling? I
looked at a couple
of these at Home Depot, and I saw that all the openings in the top and
side of the housing are plugged, but there was no seal or gasket on the
bottom to seal around the hole that is cut
in the drywall. It appeared that the metal base just sits on the
I checked online and Halo's website says they are supposed to have a
stick on gasket on
the bottom. Maybe the ones at Home Depot were missing this piece?
Thanks in advance,
Ted in MI
Air tight and recessed can are some what misnomers. You can get recessed
cans but unless they are lensed they are not really air tight. Think
shower fixture trim. Some are tighter than others.
Some cans are IC/thermally protected. A lot of the borg store stuff is not.
IC does depend on manufacture how close you can install insulation. I only
install the ones that can be burried in insulation directly. They only cost
a couple of bucks more but I can sleep at night when someone's misses
decides to install that 200 watt light bulb.
Pick a size you like and then shop around. I install CF in most of the cans
with switches. I prefer levels of light to dimmers.
Depending upon the manufacturer you choose, some new work housings would be
very difficult to install from above. You have to read carefully as there
are combinations of housings and trims. Halo for example has airtight trims
like the "30 wat" which is only airtight when used with certain housings.
This particular trim mates to the socket with a gasket between them and has
spring clips to keep the trim ring close to the ceiling. It's an open bulb
fixture, but there are no openings for air to go through
On 5 Jan 2006 18:22:22 -0800, ted firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If you have easy access you might as well use the new construction
type, and yes, it is as easy as you describe. Just make sure you get
the IC type (insulation contact).
The airtight ones I have installed come with a foam gasket to seal the
housing against the ceiling, but I always use spray foam insulation to
form a bead around the housing flange before I drop it in the hole. I
think it makes a more positive seal than the gasket. (The gasket is
usually in a little envelope stuffed into the can; maybe that's why
you didn't see it on the HD ones you looked at.) I spray a bead of
foam around the rim, drop it in the hole, and hold it down until the
foam stops expanding. Then I drive the little spikes into the joists
and add a couple of screws. The foam usually oozes out around the can
down below; I just wait until it hardens and slice it off before
snapping in the trim.
Thanks, all! I will do the foam thing as I have a few cans of that
around here somewhere...
Follow up questions:
If I buy the airtight housings, do I have to get the airtight trim as
well? Or is it a one or the other type of thing?
Also, some of the housings I was looking at had a screw in the side
that served as a "height limiter" of the
socket adjustment. Is that what that is supposed to do? It looked
like if I really used that as the max height,
the light bulb would be sticking out about 3/4" below the trim. (I
want it flush). I was looking at the Halo H7ICAT
Any one ever constructed an insulation box for non-IC recessed lights
and can offer any tips or suggestions? I've heard that some use drywall
to build the box while others use some type of insulation board with
slits to allow for heat escape...
I bought the Halo airtight housings. Others were recommended, but none
were as cheap as the Halo ones!
(Only 8.xx at H.D.) Other airtights were around 15 a piece. Then, I
also got the Halo airtight trim (30WATH).
I think the trim piece is MUCH more effective at stopping the air than
the housing would have been by itself, and
maybe a standard IC would have been enough, but for an extra 2 bucks,
I installed them, and can feel no drafts. I haven't wired them up
yet, because I forgot to buy wire. (I knew I forgot
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