That's baloney, because in this thread and the one maybe 20 threads
down, you just insulted him and told the OP to ignore him.
You didn't counter it by asking for facts.
Even if you had that would be silly, because he usually gives "facts",
just facts you don't believe or don't agree with. So if you want to
counter something, why not give your own "facts". Now you attempted
to do that this time (in parts I have snipped, because I didn't think
I'd need them) but that was not your first post in this thread. YOu
certainly don't meet the "EVERY TIME" standard, and if we apply the
same standards you use in judging hallerb, you come off pretty bad.
BTW, I read the later thread first tonight, and you say he enlisted
someone to help him. I presume you mean me. He didn't enlist me at
all. He's never written to me, nor I to him, and I don't know him.
He may be wrong about some facts -- I do not know -- but you were
posting in a way that made your statements unbelievable, and in all my
earlier posts, that's what I tried to explain to you.
Also, I'm not going to waste my time looking for sources to contradict
you. The problem from my pov is not whether you are right** or wrong,
but the way your insults, especially when he's right, destroy your
credibility. I'm trying to do you and the group a favor.
**You seem to think that if you and the people you know do it one way,
no other way is correct or acceptable. That's another problem. It's
a big country, with millions of technicians. Don't assume yours is
the only right way to do things.
mm posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.
references. Listen M&M I don't give a crap what you or he post - except when
it's outright dangerous or deceptive. If I see it and it's wrong I'll point it
out. All you have to do to prove me wrong is backing up your erroneous
statements with facts. At least most of your posts have "I don't know anything
about this" - funny, it doesn't prevent you from posting either... See ya
later - maybe.
Its INTENTIONAL more sensitive as age, by the design of the breaker
components. my very best friend used to design power transformers for a
living and he has talked about it too.
its the only safe way..........
High heat thermostats like cal stats are designed to have temps drop as
they age its all in the interests of safety
This is -- am I correct -- because the only reasonably priced
alternative was that they become LESS sensitive as they age, and that
would be dangerous.
When cars first had turn signals, turning the switch on didn't turn
the light on until the flasher period had passed. In the 60's or 70's
they changed it so that the turn lights came on as soon as the switch
was turned on. That meant when the flasher failed, one could flash
the lights using the switch.
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 14:43:34 -0500, "Howard Beale"
Got to agree with all you say. I had a GFI breaker that kept
tripping. Of course I suspected I had a ground fault in something,
but when I couldn't find anything plugged in all the time, I replaced
the breaker and that solved the problem. The house was 7 years old.
New one has lasted 20 years so far.
Agreed. I did it and I'm definitely no electrician. Not really that
hard to do. Just make sure you get a comparable circuit breaker, then
just pay attention to how you remove the old breaker and how it was
wired. Actually I'm making it sound harder than it is. The hardest
part is just getting the comparable circuit breaker.
// doug //
"Buy New Homes for Less in Texas"
Your A/C works harder and draws more energy (RLA) when the
outside temperature is warmer.
Short cycling (on-off-on) is a common cause of those symptoms in
A 30 amp circuit breaker that has been tripped a few times should
really be replaced.
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