A repair product that really adheres to rubber??
I've used black GE silicone to cover rubber things, but now that I
have an old motorcycle from 1969, there are a lot of rubber parts
which need something better. For example there is a rubber bumper**
underneath the gas tank which has a lot of short "cuts" in it (they
weren't cut by anyone though). All the cuts run parallel so that if
you pull a bit, all the cuts open up.
I need something that will really stick to the rubber, so that when
there is some stress on it, the patch will resist the stretch. I
don't think the silicone really adheres.
But it probably should be flexible too. Maybe. Otherwise the
orginal rubber will (will it?) stretch and come away from the glue,
and otherwise, when the original rubber is pushed on, it won't bend
where the glue is, will have to bend more right next to that, and will
start tearing there. I can't get most of these parts. Others are
both left and right air intake between the air cleaner and something
else. And I'm sure I'll find more. And there are other projects
where I've wanted something like this.
Look for a caulk, used in the construction of train box cars. It will
stick to a "ball of lard". Three years ago, it was expensive bucks
for a tube.
Get this on the clothes and the caulk, will out last them.............
Here is a bit more detail of my success with the 3m 5200.
You may find something better.
If so, please let us know what it is.
I had a pair of old shoes - hiking shoes about 15 years old.
They have "rubber" vibram soles and rubber "bumpers" all around.
I masked off areas of the leather, and created a new rubber bumper over
the old one.
I also re-laminated the ruber soles where the original glue had
All worked very well.
As I said, I like the GE silicone II.
But, the 5200 has immense cohesive and adhesive strenghth.
Just be sure to:
1) mask off anything that you don't want "stuck"
2) If you need more thickness, use a couple of coats about 1/16 inch
thick - about 3 hours apart.
3) sand and moisen the surfaces before application.
4) be sure that you close the tube and keep it dry for future use.
yup - I love adhesives - especially the GE silcone II ....
But when it absolutely, positively has to stay put -
you need the 3M 5200.
I like the black.
I found that the white YELLOWS.
Downside is the 7 day cure time.
But, it STICKS.
Do a Google for
5200 3M polyurethane -
Those aren't cuts - those are places where the rubber has split because it's
breaking down. If you fill those voids, the rubber adjacent will split. You
should replace the rubber, not try to fix it.
If you insist, 3M5200 Fast Cure only takes 2 days instead of 7.
Like I say, I'm sure I can't get these parts anymore. The bike was
made in 1969.
I've found listings for carb kits and ignition kits and 10 or 15 other
parts, but since these aren't "replacement parts", no one ever started
I'd love to be able to make molds and my own rubber parts, but it
would take a lot of time plus I don't know how. Why can't these
airplane bombers put their efforts into a chemical that will turn into
rubber? That would be useful.
Thanks, 7 days would be a long time
Thanks to all those who replied. Every answer seemed pretty good. I
no idea there was something as good as any of them sounded.
Yes, I know the end may be near for all these parts, but maybe not.
The bumper under the gas tank is like a dumbbell with two big round
pieces at the ends, and they look fine. There is a four inch strap in
the middle that is only damaged for about an inch of it. I'll coat
the whole thing.
The air cleaner things both have damage in the same place, as if that
is under particular stress and maybe the rest of it isn't under that
kind of stress.
Or maybe it doesn't matter. I'd be surprised if I drove this bike
for more than 2000 miles total. Unless I get a job the right distance
from home or less, I have few places to go with this thing. And I'm
too busy at home doing home.repair. But I'm still very glad to have
my first motorcycle.
I imagine the GE 5200 stuff works.
This may be a reasonable alternative: it's called "weatherstrip
adhesive", and used for gluing rubber and other types
of weatherstripping to itself, metal or glass. An automotive
supplier will have it.
I believe it's pretty flexible.
But if the rubber is perishing, that will only delay the
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:42:05 -0500, Richard J Kinch
I don't know. Only that it's black, made in 1969 and it's 1/8" thick
or almost, at its thinnnest part.
Definitely there is more than one kind because there is a rubber strap
with metal hooks at each end that goes over the battery, and it seems
in perfect condition and still stretches, but not easily, so it stays
firmly over the battery as intended. I was very careful getting it
off, but it seems to be in fine condition. None of the other rubber
was intended to pull back, only to push back.
I have used lots of polyurethane (e.g., 3M 5200),
and it does stick viciously to many things,
but I suspect most species of rubber are not among them.
3M does not list rubber among the applications:
Duro brand "Black Plastic Rubber". At least I think that's what it's
called. (Not black silicone.) I've used it to glue the souls back on
tennis shoes, etc. If it'll stick to a soul, that's pretty good.
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