No it wouldn't because 14 AWG is only rated for a 15A branch circuit.
That's not the one I was thinking of, there is (was?) something about
being allowed to have two different cooking appliances on the same
high-amperage range circuit and being allowed to use smaller wire to
connect the lower draw appliance of the two. I'm a little furry on the
details having read it once years ago and not had to worry about it again.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
On Monday, November 4, 2013 9:04:25 AM UTC-5, Pete C. wrote:
I think one key point here is that the "device", ie appliance
is listed with the cord and plug it came with. Can you
change that cord to a heavier gauage, I think so. Can you
change the 15 amp plug it came with to a 30 amp? What gfre
provided would seem to suggest the answer is no:
(1) Supply Cord of Listed Appliance or Luminaire. Where flexible cord
or tinsel cord is approved for and used with a specific listed
appliance or luminaire, it shall be considered to be protected when
applied within the appliance or luminaire listing requirements. For
the purposes of this section, a luminaire may be either portable or
Exception No. 1: Conductors tapped from a 50-ampere branch circuit
supplying electric ranges, wall-mounted electric ovens, and
counter-mounted electric cooking units shall have an ampacity of not
less than 20 amperes and shall be sufficient for the load to be
served. These tap conductors include any conductors that are a part of
the leads supplied with the appliance that are smaller than the
branch-circuit conductors. The taps shall not be longer than necessary
for servicing the appliance.
If I put a 50A plug on the cordset to my A/C and plug it into that 50A
circuit it's entirely to code. The permanent wiring and receptacle are
appropriately protected by their 50A breaker, and the cordset to my A/C
is protected by it's internal circuit breaker. There is no code
requirement that an appliance must utilize the full Ampacity of the
circuit it's plugged into.
On Sunday, November 3, 2013 6:35:56 PM UTC-5, Pete C. wrote:
I'm not so sure about that. Is it in fact code compliant to change
the plug, the cord, etc on a UL listed appliance to something larger
than it was supplied with? If it comes with a 20A plug/cord, you can
change it to 50A?
The permanent wiring and receptacle are
I think the issue here are differing interpretations of
what Stormin posted, which wasn't clear:
"I tapped a wire off
their 50 amp range socket, to power the wall AC which I put in the
window. Ran a 14-2 WG wire from his range socket, and put the necessary
socket on the end of that. "
I and I think most others took that to mean that he tapped into
the wiring at the range receptacle, (ie wire nuts, etc) and ran 14-2
to the AC, putting a socket of some kind on the end of that.
In that case, it's clearly a code violation because his new
wiring is part of the circuit wiring protected by a 50A breaker.
I think your interpretation is that he made a crude extension cord out
of 14-2 with a plug on one end, socket on the other end. Obvious
problem with that though is you can't then plug in the range
and the AC at the same time. Plus from a code standpoint, 14-2
is not rated for use as an extension cord.
Perhaps Stormin will clarify.
On 11/4/2013 7:44 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I opened the range socket, (power off). I loosened the
clamps that held the aluminum range wire, and loosed
the romex connector. Slipped the 14-2WG in through the
romex connector. Stripped the ends, put them in with
the aluminum wire. Ran the 14 to a box, which I screwed
to the baseboard. Or, more likely left the box loose on
the floor. This was 20 plus years ago, the details are
a bit faded in my memory. Plug the wall AC into the
outlet box. Put the cover back on the range socket,
plug the range back in.
I'm an outlaw. And a couple folks appreciated having AC
that killer hot summer. And you can't prove a thing. ;)
On Monday, November 4, 2013 8:04:12 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
That's what I thought you meant. I think everyone here, including
you, agrees that is a code violation. Somehow this got morphed
into changing cords, going to a larger ampacity plug on the AC,
is code compliant or not.
On 11/4/2013 8:21 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Any way to convince your news reader to stop inserting
lines between my text?
I'm sure that my wire off the range socket is code
violation. Fortunately, no damage was done, and it
brought comfort to good people.
Probably several code violations. The 14 wire on the 50A breaker for one.
Slipping and mixing the copper and aluminum wire is probably another one.
When dealing with the aluminum wire it is difficult enough to keep from
burning down a house. I lived in a house that had the aluminum wiring and I
did tighten the wires at the fuse box several times. A house down the
street that was built at the same time (aound 1965) did burn down and the
cause was stated to be wiring in and around the fuse box.
Copper and aluminum isn't a problem as long as listed CU-AL
connections are used between. Aluminum caused all sorts of grief but
it was eventually sorted out. Some of the problems were labor quality
(AL is less forgiving) and others were metallurgy. AL us still widely
used for large appliances (clothes dryers and ranges) with very few
My previous house built in the mid-70s during Cu hortage had all Al
wiring, never had any trouble and still the house is there(did not burn
down, LOL!) What?! is there any one whose knowledge is based on Google?
How did (s)he lived B4 the days of I'net? IMO, intelligence does not
come from Google.
Ant there is aluminum wiring, and there is aluminum wiring. The
early aluminum was hard and fragile. The later stuff is softer and
more ductile - and a lot tougher.
As for the connections - CU-AL USED to be the accepted standard. CU-AL
devices are no longer accepted. The new standard for aluminum wiring
devices is coalr or co-alr
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