If I wanted to bypass or jump out a chronotherm III, where the furnace is
connected to W1 and C screws, how would I do this? Jumping W1 and C does
not seem to do it.
Does this mean the III is supplying the 24 V to the control board? I
thought the 24V xformer was external, and that the III was just acting as a
switch. I know the 24 V transformer for cooling is external.
So if I wanted to bypass the III altogether, how would I do this?
Suppose the III is kaput; or equivalently, suppose the two wires are
disconnected from from the III.
Jumping them doesn't work.
And there is no voltage at the wires when disconnected from the III, which
suggests no 24 V xformer on the controller or externally.
So I put the wires back on the III, and when calling for heat, saw 24 V on
the wires, suggesting that the III is supplying the 24 V to kick in the
So I disconnected the wires again, had the III call for heat, saw it was
indeed energizing the two terminals with 24 V.
So with the two wires still disconnected, I put a separate 24 V to them, to
kick in the furnace..
No go -- only when the wires are physically connected to the III does the
furnace kick in.
So is the 24 V from the III a "special" 24 V? What's going on?
"Dear Doctor. I'm sick. I tried taking asprin, but it didn't
help. I'm not going to tell you what symptoms I had. I'm not
going to tell you what I'm trying to accomplish by takeing
medicine. But, I'm going to ask you waht pills to take."
OK, so you don't know how a thermostat or basic controls work... Your best
bet is to call you local HVAC pro, and upgrade to a Vision Pro 8000 stat.
No I am not gonna tell you why its not working, other than tho quit while
your ahead before you burn up a control board and/or transformer.
Would that be Rh or Rc, and would that be W1 or W2? Jumping
the wrong one could easily fry the board, or the
transformer. He didn't say what he was wanting to
accomplish, so even those instructions might not be useful.
It's reckless to tell him to do this or that, if you don't
know the purpose or goal.
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 21:26:24 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
Its pretty clear that what he is trying to accomplish is to see if the
stat is bad or if there's a problem with the furnace. Stop trying to
out smart people who are smarter than yourself. It makes you look
like a fool. Which btw you are.
FWIW, the Chronotherm III does have Rc and Rh terminals on the sub base, as
well and W1 and W2
If you had ever installed any of them, you would know this. Chronotherm III
stats are a PITA to program too.
Also... if you jump W1 and C, its not gonna do anything. Thats hooking
common to common and expecting it to work..... but then according to some of
the trolls on here, we don't know what we're talking about.
The next questions are what configuration of system?? heat only?? heat w/
A/C?? heat pump?? dual fuel?? How old is the system?? What was it doing or
99% of the time, replacing a thermostat is like saying "My car won't run,
maybe if I get a new key for it...."
Gee... maybe the techs on here are not that are ignorant or stoopid.......
I never said they didn't have rh and rc. As for w2, that depends on
if'in its a two stage stat. Are all chronotherm III's two stage? um
nope. Honeywell doesn't ever use that name anymore. How old is that
puppy. I use to have one but it puked after 10 years. T8700C 1004
rings a bell. I may have the last four wrong. Available in both
single and multi stage configurations. Off the top of my head..
I thought they were very use friendly. Way better than W/R stats.
Probably a past paid too much for a filter troll.
When the key wears out and wont turn the ignition the car wont
I love it when a customer says, "I think I need a new thermostat."
If it's hanging off the wall in little pieces, I agree with them.
I know a guy who has a crazy girlfriend, when she gets mad at him,
she takes it out on the house by breaking things.
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