I've read about using soapy water to spray on flowers to kill aphids and other bugs.
Does anyone have a formula on how much liquid soap to use in a gallon of water to make such a spray, or where I might find such a formula?
Thanks
I've read about using soapy water to spray on flowers to kill aphids and other bugs.
Does anyone have a formula on how much liquid soap to use in a gallon of water to make such a spray, or where I might find such a formula?
Thanks
To those comments I would add that there may also be small birds in your locality that will eat aphids. Every Spring I get aphids on my roses and every year they are gone again within about 2 weeks as the Fairy wrens come in and work over the 100+roses in my garden. If you don't have any tiny birds in your garden try to encourage them to come with sympathetic plantings because they really do work very hard and I'd rather they did that than I had to do it.
I use Murphy Oil Soap as a pre-emergent, 1 Tbls to a gallon of water in my sprayer. Murphy's is a pure vegetable soap, not harmful to birds and other wildlife but it will kill soft bodied sap sucking insects and repel others. You really should spray before flowers/blossoms open or you will repel pollenators.
swish bar ivory until the water takes on a gray appearance
In article , snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:
On Apr 23, 2:48 pm, "Freckles" wrote:
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Simple organic solutions for pest problems.
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Discussions
New Gardeners
We certainly understand that many gardeners become anxious when they see pests on their plants and want to react decisively when they see their plants damaged. But we must remind you of the central principle of organic gardening: growing plants in harmony with Nature. And insects, even those that eat your plants, are a crucial part of that system. When you see insects in your garden, take some time to really watch what they're doing. Are they actually destroying the plant or just nibbling it a bit? Many plants can outgrow minor damage. Also, in many cases, insects attack stressed out plants. Do you have enough healthy plants to spare the sickly ones? Can you restore sickly plants to robust health so they can resist insect attack? The best defenses against insect attack are preventative measures. Grow plants suited to the site and they'll be less stressed out. Don't let them be too wet, too dry or too shaded. Design a diverse garden, so that pests of a particular plant won't decimate an entire section of the garden.
Most importantly, encourage the natural predators of pest insects to hunt in your garden?beneficial insects (such as the common ladybug), birds, frogs and lizards control pests by eating them. You can make your garden hospitable for your natural allies by keeping a water source (just a dish-full, if that's all you've got) nearby for them and by not wiping out the entire pest population with a pesticide, sending the beneficials elsewhere in search of food. Also, grow plants with small blossoms like sweet alyssum and dill, which attract predatory insects who feed on flowers' nectar between attacks on pests.
Barriers such as row covers, netting and plant collars very effectively protect crops from pests. Sticky traps and pheromone lures are another way to minimize your pest problems without harming other living things in your garden. You'll find row covers (the best-known brand is Reemay) and other barriers, along with traps and the like at your local garden center and in mail-order catalogs.
Finally, if you need to react quickly to an acute pest invasion you can choose from several natural products that affect specific insects, won't harm humans, pets or wildlife, and that degrade quickly in the environment. Among the best of those products is Bacillus thuringiensis, a naturally occurring bacteria that you apply to your plants to disrupt the digestion of caterpillars and other leaf-eaters. Be sure to identify the pest positively before you buy this product because each strain of Bt affects specific kinds of insects. Horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps and garlic and/or hot pepper sprays also work well against many pests.
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Rate: (5 Ratings) This is a toxic bugs spray, not to be used on any edible plants or fruit trees. It's cheap to make and works very well. I recommend it for roses and other flowering and non-flowering bushes and plants.
Instructions Difficulty: Easy
Things You¹ll Need: ? Package of Chewing Tobacco ? Listerine ? Lemon Dish Washing Detergent ? Spray Bottle Step
1Empty contents of package of chewing tobacco into 1 gallon of hot water. The tobacco can be wrapped in cheese cloth for easy removal or strain off later. Let the tobacco soak in the water over night. The water will turn a dark brown color. Step
2 Remove tobacco from the water either by straining or removal of the tobacco wrapped in cheese cloth. Pour into a 2 quart spray bottle. The nicotine is highly toxic. Keep away from children and animals. Do not use on anything you will eat. Step 3Add 1 oz. Listerine. The Listerine is naturally an insect repellent. Bugs do not like the scent and stay away from your plants. Step
4Add 1 teaspoon of dish washing detergent. The dish washing detergent makes the mixture stick to your plants. Step
5 Mix well. Spray on to the plants, bushes or trees being careful not to inhale the mixture. This is toxic. Reapply after every rainfall or full watering.----------
Top posting on purpose - do you personally recommend anything, Billy?
I only ask as I think we're all capable of googling. For me, when I post to a newsgroup, I'm looking for personal experience.
For me, I've used cayenne tea, garlic tea, dishwashing liquid and I think I've tried tobacco tea all with moderate success.
When I mentioned original thought in a previous post, this was what I was referring to, not the particular quote you used.
Usenet to me is sharing personal knowledge. JMO (but it is my opinion.).
Kate
Yeah, well, I tried this one last year and it didn't do squat on apids, cabbage loopers or mater hornworms.
Even at triple the rate of concentrate, it didn't work.
Stinks too.
My healthier-every-year-soil is making more difference than anything, I feel.
Charlie
Which is why I included:
We certainly understand that many gardeners become anxious when they see pests on their plants and want to react decisively when they see their plants damaged. But we must remind you of the central principle of organic gardening: growing plants in harmony with Nature. And insects, even those that eat your plants, are a crucial part of that system. When you see insects in your garden, take some time to really watch what they're doing. Are they actually destroying the plant or just nibbling it a bit? Many plants can outgrow minor damage. Also, in many cases, insects attack stressed out plants. Do you have enough healthy plants to spare the sickly ones? Can you restore sickly plants to robust health so they can resist insect attack? The best defenses against insect attack are preventative measures. Grow plants suited to the site and they'll be less stressed out. Don't let them be too wet, too dry or too shaded. Design a diverse garden, so that pests of a particular plant won't decimate an entire section of the garden.
Most importantly, encourage the natural predators of pest insects to hunt in your garden--beneficial insects (such as the common ladybug), birds, frogs and lizards control pests by eating them. You can make your garden hospitable for your natural allies by keeping a water source (just a dish-full, if that's all you've got) nearby for them and by not wiping out the entire pest population with a pesticide, sending the beneficials elsewhere in search of food. Also, grow plants with small blossoms like sweet alyssum and dill, which attract predatory insects who feed on flowers' nectar between attacks on pests.
----- IMHO FarmI had the best answer to the question that should have been asked. Don't be shy about jumping in.
Hey, the poster ASKED for a recipe. "Does anyone have a formula on how much liquid soap to use in a gallon of water to make such a spray, or where I might find such a formula?" The formula came from "Mother Earth News". I was bored, as you and Kate seem to be bored. I gave her what she asked for, with a previso. The first defense against insects, is healthy plants.
Since when do we second guess a poster or withhold information that is benign and easy to give?
Why don't you go build a deer-proof fence, or remove a tree stump or somethin'? Oh, and I don't think I'm going to be making Kate happy anytime soon. Hopefully, she has a husband to improve.
I'd really love to hear an explanation from anyone, but Jangchub, on what surface tension" has to do with the turgidity of the stomata cells, that would cause them to open-up, causing a plant to dry-out, shrivel, and die. And what kind of soap is Ivory soap, other than it is made from fats and a base?
Oh, little mysteries of life.
So, how'd you get on with your Jersey Giants? I got half of my UC-157s in and the trench dug for the second half. After they're in, I need to prep a new bed for the leeks. I'm getting lettuce, celery, chives, parsley, and oregano from the garden. The second year for the medicinal herbs is looking good, even if the identifying tags did wash off the potts. The milk thistle is feral but keeps showing up in the same area. The mint is on the move but it is too early, and cool, to start pulling it for ice water. Radishes and carrots are showing. Peas are just sort of staring at me and not doing much. It's almost May and I haven't killed off half of the seedlings, so it looks like it's going to be a grand year. Still have the water rationing to get around though. I'll be happy when I get past the digging and on to gardening.
Why do I seem to be bored?
Second guess? Are you playing with your crayola or being grouchy?
What? I don't have a deer problem or stump problem.
What the hell are you going on about now? And am I mis-construing your post or are you grouching at me?
Uh....yeah, I agree.
We got all 75 in at son's, after bed prep and trenching and all that stuff......fair hard work for an overwintered lardass like myself.
Rained really hard a couple hours ago, so glad the job is done.
I'll be happy when I can get to sleep and stay asleep.
Charlie
You were responding to a response instead of the OP.
You'd be grouchy too, if you only had one crayola and apparently I'm not doing well enough with keeping it between the lines. Maybe I should have become a style editor and tell everyone how to get their responses right, instead of just answering questions. I read that the main thing is finding your voice.
Well, you should have. These are pressing problems of our times. Responses to these problems fell like manna from the skies, without a discouraging word from you or Kate.
It looks like I was grouching about Kate but I might be able to squeeze you in next thursday for a quick course on wine tasting (last one standing is the loser;O).
beecrofter: "swish bar ivory until the water takes on a gray appearance"
Chub: "Do that on the wrong plant and break the surface tension opening the foliage and stomata to drying, shriveling, dying. Ivory is not the kind of soap wich works on the exoskeleton or softbodied insect. Use Ivory if you want, but I wouldn't use it on plants with a high ticket price."
Since a response doesn't seem to be in Chub's own self interest, allow me.
Ivory:2 Chub:0
Here we have beecrofter responding to the OP and Chub barging in to erroneously discredit his help. Don't know what it is with Chub and Shelly, they don't seem to understand humility. They are very good at somethings but then cross over the line, and claim expertise in areas where they become ludicrous. I guess what I'm sayin' is, that they need to find their voice, and not to take themselves so damn seriously (unless, of course, they are dealing with one of those insane, chemical-spewing planet-killers).
You do not, at least not with enthusiasm. I noticed that hesitation, Junger.
Think I'll wait on the leek bed. For no reason at all, my little finger and ring finger feel like I closed a door on them this morning.
Be careful of what you wish for ol' friend.
Now, where the hell are the rest of my crayolas?
Should be I'll be happy when I can get to sleep and stay asleep sound for 6 hours.
Yup!
Bill and 88 F right now.
More on topic :))
I'm still dizzy from 94F three days ago but the plants seem to like it. I got the clear plastic covers over most of my seedlings outside now (up about an inch at one end to keep from frying everything. 60F here in the redwoods.
replying to Freckles, Etienned wrote: See our recipe and application tips below . . . BUT WAIT - Why do you feel the need to kill the pests? IPopulation explosion? Or a few aphids on a few buds? There's a difference... Larger question - Why is there a pest infestation on the plants? Likely Answer: The plants' surrounding environment is not in equilibrium. OR The plant itself is unhealthy and likely stressed environmentally, thus weakened and more prone to an infestation or disease. So before doing anything ensure correct diagnosis-plant stress or environmental stress. Please don't assume or treat "just in case." It could cause more problems that are more difficult to correct. Each plant species needs certain light/soil/moisture/temperature conditions in order to thrive. If not, and over time, it becomes stressed and weak thus susceptible to pests and diseases. The environment needs critters of all kinds in order for each to maintain a constant population where no one population overpowers another. Presence of earthworms, mantids, Ladybugs, wasps, spiders, lizards and toads create an equilibrium amongst them all so no population explosion. Yet a few of each will be present. This is not bad. So diagnose thoroughly before applying any control mechanism.
*Chemical Use* Causes the most environmental disruption. Chemical use to destroy multiple species and creates a vacuum allowing an invading population to flourish above all others.We spray/mist a Soap/Oil emulsion for control of a pest and fungus infestation. RECIPE CONCENTRATION ALERT: concentration should alter between warm and cool months for effectiveness and to protect plants' well-being in exterior locations.
*Interior Locations* with climate control, use more concentrated emulsion recipe. FOR EXTERIOR LOCATIONS: Warm Months-Temps above 78F: MORE DILUTE emulsion (too concentrated will cause defoliation); Cool Months-Temps below 78F: MORE CONCENTRATED emulsion (more effective). RECIPE: Temps above 78F.: 1/2 TBSP Insecticidal Soap + 1/2 TBSP Mineral Oil Stirred into 1 Gal room-temp. Water. Temps below 78F: 1 TBSP Insecticidal Soal + 1 TBSP Mineral Oil into 1 Gal room-temp. Water. APPLICATION: Spray/Drench entire plant to the point of runoff, on upper and underside of all foliage, stems and surrounding soil surface. If treating a potted plant, treat all surfaces of plant container (including it's underside by tipping onto its bottom edge thus exposing the bottom in order to apply spray/mist. TIP: Rake soil surface clean. Remove all dead and decaying matter from soil surface beneath plant and discard in trash bag directly into covered trash bin before treating plant.HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.