Has anyone ever propegated Magnolia Tripetalis from seed ?

Hello gardeners. I have been trying to reproduce Umbrella Tree ( Magnolia Tripetalis )from seed with no luck what-so-ever. I've removed seed from cones and then soaked for a few days to loosen and remove the red outter skin. I've planted the hard black seed in the ground, in soil filled flower pots, in wet paper towel and have been soaking some in water for the past few weeks to no avail. I can't seem to get these seeds to sprout. I have seen seedling plants in the wild so I do know they will grow from seed. Perhaps they've been through the digestive tract of one animal or other to soften the shell some. ( ? ). Anyone have any suggestions ? I would prefer seedlings verses cuttings. Is some form of scarification required ? Has anyone out there ever propegated said trees ? TIA Paul
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On 29/09/2013 18:19, Paul Dudley wrote:

Was the seed ripe when you removed it from the cones? According to http://www.ibiblio.org/openkey/intkey/web/MATR.htm the fruit takes a year to mature. Have you tried stratifying the seeds for several weeks in a refrigerator, or leaving them out in pots over winter to allow the cold and frost to get at them? This is from http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/database/lppi/sp244.shtml :
Propagation by Seed: Time of year to collect seed: Autumn Time of year to sow seed: Summer Seed treatment: stratify 40 degrees F 4-5 months. Preferred temperature for germination: 70-85 degrees F Time required for germination: 3-4 weeks Comment: Mulch seed-beds.
By the way, the correct name is Magnolia tripetala, not tripetalis.
--

Jeff

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On Sun, 29 Sep 2013 18:48:47 +0100, Jeff Layman wrote:

Most informative. Thank you. 'specially the ala vs alis. I have dug them up in the past and transplanted but I must have damaged the tap root in each case as they grew somewhat stunted the first few years and then grew more branch growth than normal. Much too bushy. That is my main reason for wanting to grow seedlings. I will try putting the seeds in the fridge as suggested and will see what happens in spring. Next fall I will try again with fresh seed.
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On Sunday, September 29, 2013 11:12:35 AM UTC-7, New Guy wrote:

I know absolutely NOTHING about the subject. That is why I am entitled to rush in and suggest. <g>
Would cracking the seed help?
HB
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Paul Dudley wrote:

Yup, that's it. You have to swallow them whole and then collect them later. That's how they make coffee in some parts of the world.......
D
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No, I haven't... but a couple of points from an old seed lab hand:
1) if you've got a seed source handy, consider trying to germinate half-developed seed immediately, no scarification or vernalization. In fact, if they're really handy, I'd start collecting 10 seeds every week after the first month after pollination, and try to germinate immediately. Many seeds "add" dormancy factors towards the end of seed development, and you may be able to shortcut vernalization by going for less completely developed seeds. It's worth a try if it's not too much of a nuisance for you.
2) Some species put down big tap roots, and then have problems if the tap root is later disturbed. There's been work on some species that suggests that letting them grow till the tap root is maybe 3-4" long and then trimming off the very tip of that root encourages better growth after transplanting. Again, I know nothing to suggest that this is the case with M. tripetala but it would be an interesting experiment if you've got seedlings available and a few extra minutes of time.
Kay
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On Mon, 30 Sep 2013 02:01:03 +0000, Kay Lancaster wrote:

Thanks Kay. I will have to wait until next year to try your suggestions. There are no more cones available at this time.
Paul
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