Tomato pesticides, anything better than Malathion?

I use Malathion rather stingily, it seems like what I'm applying is very unlikely to exceed the maximum daily intake. I live in a rather dry part of the county, but the ocean proximity does provide a lot of humidity at night. I would reckon it varies from about 10% to 70% over most day/nights.

I'm figuring on mixing soluble fertilizer with the Malathion application. If you can't destroy a parasite, out grow it.

Like I said, this is my first attempt in 50 years to grow tomatos. In May I put some Ace hybrids down, they seem to do OK, no blight, 6 oz fruits, the bugs get maybe 25% of them. In June I put some Beefmasters down, they're the ones with the blighted stems. 6 oz fruits, mostly cracked. Tasty enough. Most of the web sites say March is the time to put the seedlings out around here, and I expect that's about right. Live and learn, hey! Cracked fruit seems to be mostly blamed on uneven watering, which seems right enough to me. It's hard to avoid. I got to work 12 hours a day three consecutive days of the week, so the plants get little attention when I get home. On my days off, it seems like a good idea to try to make up for the previous inattention, and I give them more water over a longer period.

For next year, I'm thinking about some kind of automatic watering system that will flood the soil every hour or two. I got a fountain pump that seems up to the job of raising 10 gallons per hour a foot or two. Got a cheapo Home Depot timer that turns on and off every half hour or whatever you set it for. Quite a bit more work to do, but conceivable.

Interestingly, my best producer Ace this year I put on top of a Strawberry pot. I had never seen or heard of a Strawberry pot before, and the web site which caught my interest suggested putting a half inch thick pipe through to the bottom. I did that in spades, put a half dozen pipes down! These were perforated with 1/8" holes every other inch or two, supposedly as I gathered so water might be added to deep irrigate the plants. The other 10 or so apertures on the outside of the Pot I filled with Strawberry plants from the Loew's. The Strawberry seedlings produced a few berries and died. But the Ace tomato on top thrived. After a couple weeks, I saw the unwisdom of pouring water down the tubes; to irrigate the pot, one must soak the entirety. I removed a few, leaving only three, I guess. The Ace thrived, and continues to. I got several other Aces in other medium which thrive, but not as productively. I reckon that the remaining three tubes provide aeration to the soil and this accounts for the greater prductivitey. I've sown some of the other apertures with basil, others with peppers, it's kind of late in the year for that, but it's California!

Reply to
Real.Dale.Benjamin
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There's always one of the organic scooping litters. I know of two:

Sweat Scoop (made from wheat, I suppose the chaff or straw), and The World's Best Cat Litter (made from corncobs)

These are flushable (which is what we do with them), but they'd probably also compost well.

Reply to
Jim Kingdon

But do they effectively clump cat urine?

Otherwise I may as well use Feline Pine.

Reply to
Omelet

I haven't used the clay scooping litter, so I can't give a direct comparison, but yes the Sweat Scoop seems to clump OK. The clumps have something of a loose structure (can tend to fall apart) when they are still wet. If they dry out for a day or so they are more cohesive. Sometimes you get wet litter on the bottom of the pan - I've never seen this as a huge or unsolvable problem but some people I know can't stand it.

There's a strong element of preference in this (both your preference and your cat's). My cat was very tolerant when she was new and I was trying out different litters.

Reply to
Jim Kingdon

The clumping after a number of hours (vs. within minutes) would be an issue for those of us who have automatic litter boxes. I would really like a "friendlier" litter, but clumping for the rake is important as it rakes ten minutes after the cat has been there. The clay litter works fine, but I have little choice but to send it to the dump as I have pretty much put it all the places I can without compromising my garden. :-(

Glenna

Reply to
Glenna Rose

We still keep one litter box of pine or cedar shavings for the cats that don't like the clumping litter.

I'll have to experiment in a separate litter box with the new stuff. I'd really like to start being able to put cat waste on my Canna bed again. It did them a LOT of good.

Reply to
Omelet

That clumping litter is terrible in the garden. I've removed all that was dumped their early on before I learned better!

Reply to
Omelet

replying to Omelet, frugalmoving wrote: I would try using diatomaceous earth (food grade) powder for the bugs. I use it on my tomato plants and it works wonders. It is completely harmless to the plant, but bugs hate it. It is like razor blades to them. They get cut up and dry out. Its also harmless and it can be ingested for cleaning your colon or used externally for skin exfoliation . I use it to keep ants out of certain areas as well.

For the other problem with your water, I have a solution: colloidal silver. I use it personally for a million things. The latest one is when I had a really bad strawberry plant that litterally had mold growing all over the plant and was inches from death. As a last resort to save it and to test out the silver, I put some in a spray bottle and sprayed the entire outer leaves and stems of the plant. I also applied some to the water and roots.

What happened next was better than I expected. The plant made a full and speedy recovery, all mold was gone, and since silver really doesn't go away, the plant will most likely be free from bacteria and disease for a long time to come. Try it out!

Oh yeah another benefit: colloidal silver kills bug eggs and makes some bugs sterile. Check it out!

Good luck.

Reply to
frugalmoving

  I've never used silver . DE works well for some bugs , esp. those with hard outer shells like beetles  but for hornworms the solution is Dipel , also known as Bacillus Thurigensis Kurstaki . I find it easier to get a uniform application using dust and a small hand pump duster . I use the same unit to apply DE - the thing is that if DE gets wet it loses effectiveness and must be re-applied . We get heavy dew here almost daily this time of year ...
Reply to
Terry Coombs

Terry Coombs wrote: ...

i don't see many bugs on the tomatoes i want to discourage. i much prefer to not cause problems by spraying anything if i can help it. so far so good.

songbird

Reply to
songbird

  I take exception to a caterpillar/worm that eats all the foliage - and green tomatoes - off my tomato plants . I've been plucking and stomping , but as much fun as that is it gets old after a while . BtK is harmful only to certain caterpillar-type pests . DE will also affect pollinators , which is one of the reasons I don't often use it . I'm VERY careful with what I use and when , I'd hate to poison my bees .
Reply to
Terry Coombs

Terry Coombs wrote: ...

i've not seen any this year so far, they usually appear early to mid July. *knocks on wood* :)

they are not impossible to control here with manual methods. we don't grow many plants compared to before so to go out in the early morning to check plants can be quick. just look for any damage and then look on the ground for where the droppings are at and see if i can find it. sometimes i can't for a day or two and yes the damage can be more than i'd like, but i'll get into why below...

i'm not convinced that most of what is being done these days with bacteria and other controls is actually studied enough and i sure don't want any collateral damage to creatures not directly causing harm. so to me if i can't do it manually or close to that then i tend to avoid it. i've just seen too many examples of where people who develop such things say one thing but years later scientists who study such things find out the damage is different than what was originally thought.

i am in big favor of studing as much as possible and learning, but there has to be a point where some- one stands up and says that we need to be a lot more careful with things than we have been up to this point.

the big collapse in many insect populations is not a good thing. not if you understand ecosystems and how energy and plants and insects work together and how they are broken down by fungi and such. it's a very interconnected system and yes there are various pathways, but a lot of those pathways are now being disrupted and it's going to come back on us eventually.

the older generations seem to say "so what, it's just a bug, it carries disease or eats my crops or whatever get rid of it" but that approach is laden with future problems. there are other ways of dealing with damage, plant more, increase diversity and accept some losses where you can. this planet now needs every break it can get.

i took a drive the other day. in the middle of summer a drive in the car would often result in plenty of bugs on the front of the car or the windshield. not this time and not for a while. this is in a state and area with plenty of woodlands and some wild areas. we've lost a lot of the frogs and toads that used to be common too.

songbird

Reply to
songbird

You guys do realize that the OP is more than 10 years old?

Reply to
peek0703

 I figured it wasn't exactly current since it came from Homemoanershub ... but the info is still relevant and someone reading it now may benefit .
Reply to
Terry Coombs

I've seen waxing and waning of insects and animals around here. We got invaded by gypsy moths years ago and now they are gone. Stink bugs too now gone. Japanese beetles are no longer a problem. I think it is the balance of nature. For example when stink bugs were taking over, birds and bats were not eating them but maybe discovered they liked that peppery taste. The bugs are around but are not a pestilence.

I used to hunt central PA and during bow season at friends camp saw scads of wild turkeys so I came back in the spring to turkey hunt for a few days and did not see any or even hear anyone else shooting. Friend figured fall turkey hunt and foxes wiped out the turkeys.

Someday this the balance of nature will occur with people.

Reply to
Frank

I missed it too but some topics are timeless. Malathion is said to be not too poisonous but structurally to me it looks like a nerve gas agent.

Reply to
Frank

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote: ...

i assume anything coming from gardenbanter or homeowners hub to be likely ancient, but if the topic is interesting and i have time to reply i don't much mind it. it's not like this is a high volume group now...

songbird

Reply to
songbird

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