steps in rebuilding a bathroom

Hi all,
I'm doing some bathroom rebuilding, and I'm trying to get a better understanding of the steps involved. If anyone sees anything miss, could they please shout out?
thanks in advance!
It's a brick veneer house, with wooden frames.
Steps, as I know them;
1) demolish bathroom 2) relocate pipes and power (we're moving a few things, like the bath) 3) replace floor (water damaged, and the main reason for the reno) 4) resheet walls 5) waterproof 6) bed floor 7) tile floor and walls 8) plumber and electrician finish off 9) paint ceiling
a friend of a friend, who might be hard to contact, let me some a similar list but it included a step between 4 and 5 above. The step was "tile on timber floor (villaboard)" but i can't for the life of me work out what it might mean.
any thoughts?
thanks again
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Hie thee to a library and get a book. It will be far faster than mucking about on the Internet. A bathroom is either the first or second most complicated room in a house and leaving out a step, or not understanding its importance, can have repercussions.
R
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Villaboard appears to be a waterproof form of plasterboard/drywall suitable for use behind tiles in bathrooms. http://www.jameshardie.co.nz/index.php/ps_pagename/product/pi_productid/26
In the UK we use Hardibacker board which might be similar.
Floors must be very rigid or tiles and grout will crack. Normally some stiffening work has to be done. There are ways to do this using plywood and proprietary boards.
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Me thinks he's already in over his head . . . . - Dave in Houston
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Indeed!
It's ok, though, I just learnt one more thing (about the bathroom, that is)
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On Jul 2, 3:19am, "Cwatters"

cheers, that makes sense.
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wrote:

cheers, that makes sense.
Absolutely. Since the floor was the primary issue prompting the remodel it is only prudent that you remove as much of the subfloor as possible and re-frame the floor joist system. This is good spot for 12-inch on-center structural members sized appropriately for the span. I would crossbrace frequently as well. If you are able to frame for it (dimensionally speaking) SturdiFloor is a 1-1/8 inch thick, tongue-in-groove plywood that will insure zero movement. Be sure to place adhesive (Liquid Nails) on all floor joists before installing the new subfloor. You can get away with ring-shank nails for the subfloor but we like 3-inch screws a lot better. You'll need to allow for the thickness of the subfloor, 1/2 inch HardiBacker over that and the thickness of your floor tile plus a little for the thinset if you want the bathroom floor level to be level with the hall (?) floor.
Dave in Houston
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Looks like you are on a right track. Make sure you have a professional plumber! Also pick fixtures ahead of time........ Electrical, toilet, shower and or tub and valves.
Toilet paper hangers, towel hangers, Vanities, vents, heater? Mirror size and placement.... What finish is going to be used, tile size, and quantity...... Get a dumpster or a good place to dump the load. Try not to pick it up too many times...... Wear dust masks and eye protection....... make sure that there is crawl space under the floor........... Use nail protectors on plumbing and wiring.... Take pictures of all blocking for above fixtures or items.... Bolocking is important... Use a good 3/4" subfloor ply glued to the joist..... You can use hardibacker board for tile or set the tile in a mortar bed... Do not set tile on sheet rock..... There is maybe more to this list, but I gave it a good whack..
I just finished 4 high end baths.....I can write a book..... john

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thanks. Yeah, everyone will be fully licensed etc. I'm mainly asking as I always like to know wtf is happening.

pretty sure (as in 100%) this will be impossible with our construction type. The only real gap is between the joists.

Please clarify?

Plenty of that happens, never you mind!
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jzfredricks | 2009-07-01 | 11:56:52 PM wrote:

Take pictures of the insides of the walls, floor, and ceiling before they're closed up. The pictures are useful for future remodelling and repairs.
--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
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We block the interior walls for towel bars, sink and or fixture attachments, grab bars, toilet paper hangers, soap wells, mirrors, light fixtures, medicine cabinets, and anything to be attached to the wall after sheetrock and or tile.
With no crawl space and intstalling a tub or shower you have to attach the drains prior to floor or wall finish in some cases.......i.e. thru a hatch in the subfloor if there is no crawl space.....
Now for bolocking.......yeah.......be careful for the bolocking.....(lol) john
wrote:

thanks. Yeah, everyone will be fully licensed etc. I'm mainly asking as I always like to know wtf is happening.

pretty sure (as in 100%) this will be impossible with our construction type. The only real gap is between the joists.

Please clarify?

Plenty of that happens, never you mind!
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