Sistering floor joists

The Best way to get the right Info,
you need is to call your City or State Planning,
and Development Services Division,
Public Works and Engineering Department,

And Set up for a inspector to come out and see your needs
it is a good $35 to $60

Your pay a Construction Company to send one of their inspector,
For about $100 to $500..

For no will need able to tell you Screws,
nut and bolt, nail, or glue, etc..
With out looking and inspecting it first.


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thanks for the reply.   LMAO!!

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

I said: For no one will be able to tell you Screws,
nut and bolt, nail, or glue, etc..
With out looking and inspecting it first.


Mr. LMAO Outlaw, Steve Barker..
Know you can not do a Frame job or floor joists,
with out a O.K. of your LooL Code Enforcer..

We see that you are unable to Engineer
a 2" X 8" X 15 1/2',

To Screws or Nail can cause a crack
or brake in 100+ year old Woods,
you need to predrill Old Woods always..


 

there'll be NO code inspector in MY house, thank you very much.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

I would use construction adhesive, and :

TimberLOK replaces 3/8" lag screws and enables you to complete wood-to-wood
projects faster, easier and stronger. TimberLOK is approved in ACQ Pressure
Treated Lumber. There is no need to predrill with TimberLOK, it’s sharp
point and aggressive threads zip right in to the densest woods.

    Unique tapered head countersinks easily into wood for flush appearance
    Variety of lengths, from 2 1/2" to 10", to match every application
    Free bit in every package

A 6" TimberLOK is a code-compliant way to attach rafters or trusses to a
double top plate. View an application video in our Ask The FastenMaster
Section or download our technical bulletins in the Code Approvals section.

    Available Options
    Installation Instructions
    Technical Data
    Product Warranty Information
    Related FM Products

Fastener Lengths:    2 1/2", 4", 6", 8", 10"
Packaging Size:    12 pc clamshell, 50 pc box, 250 pc bucket, 500 pc bucket

I copied this out of a web page and they may have just the application you
are describing.
I also know that some engineers have called out nails and clinching them.
That is driving the nail through both members and the part that sticks out,
bend over......
I like the screws most of all.
john



"Steve Barker"  wrote in message

some time ago i inquired about fastening some steel plate to the sides
of some 100+ year old, full dimension, rough cut oak floor joists to
stiffen them up. I've decided to sister them with like sized (2x8) wood
instead.  These are the second story floor joists and they are 2x8 and
span 15.5 feet.  I've got the ceiling out on the lower level and want to
stiffen them up before i go back with new ceiling. My question is, what
is the best way (and frequency) to attach them?  Screws, nut and bolt,
nail, glue, etc??  It's a balloon style house and i'll be able to  set
the new sisters up on the ledger board like the originals.  My main
concern is pulling them together in such a fashion as to best create a
"oneness" .

thanks!
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

thanks!  got a link?


--
Steve Barker
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nevermind on the link.  I found them.  They looks suspiciously like the
SKS product.  My local lumber yard is listed as carrying both, so i'll
go take a look.  THANKS!

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Very similar to SKS model.....Self drilling, and very strong.
I like the head also, it is hexagonal and torques well.
john

"Steve Barker"  wrote in message

On 1/23/2012 9:45 AM, jloomis wrote:

nevermind on the link.  I found them.  They looks suspiciously like the
SKS product.  My local lumber yard is listed as carrying both, so i'll
go take a look.  THANKS!

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

You might also look at Simpson strong-drive screws:

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/screws-loadrated.asp

I originally used these to attach seismic hold down anchors and have been a
believer since then.  They're self drilling, drive easily with a
drill/driver (with a hex socket adapter), and are very strong. The strong
drive screws are available in the home centers where the metal brackets are
located. They're designed for sheering situations, so they should work
great for sistering joists.  I use them all the time for a variety of
tasks.

Most home centers carry both TimberLok and Strongdrive screws. Compare both
and use whichever one is available in the length you need at the lowest
cost.

Anthony

A few comments:

I believe it is important to use dry lumber in a situation like this,
so that the new members don't shrink relative to the old members.

Best practice would be to jack each floor joist to remove the dead
load deflection, install the new sister, and then remove the jack.
That way the new and old joists share in carry the dead load.  If you
don't do this, the new joist won't carry any of the existing load.  Of
course, if you only want to stiffen the floor system for live load,
then that wouldn't require jacking.

As for the connection between the joists, I would just use nails.
E.g. two rows of 16d nails (0.162" x 3.5"), top and bottom 1" in from
the edge, and 16" o.c. in each row, installed from the face of the new
joist.  While other fasteners have a higher capacity, like Simpson SDS
screws, lag screws, etc., you have plenty of space for fasteners, and
so you can just use more nails.  In my opinion that makes for a more
redundant connection.  The higher capacity fasteners make more sense
where space is limited relative to the load, like in a holddown.

One wrinkle in all this is the issue of splitting the old joists.  If
you have to predrill for each fastener, then there'd be a labor
savings in using fewer, higher capacity fasteners.

Alternatively, using nails of a smaller shank diameter may allow you
to avoid splitting without predrilling.  If so, the nail capacity is
proportional to the shank diameter, so again you can just use more
nails.  I.e. you could use 16d box nails (0.135" x 3.5") and just use
1.62/1.35 = 1.2 times as many.  You could even use 10d box nails
(0.128" x 3") and just use 1.62/1.28 = 1.27 times as many.  [Note that
the required penetration for the nail to develop its design capacity
is 10 times the shank diameter. Thus 0.128" x 3" nails are OK for a
1.5" thick side member: 1.5" + 10 * 0.128" < 3".]

So I suggest a little experimentation to determine what size nails can
be used without splitting the old joists.

As for the use of adhesive, in principle it seems like a good idea but
I don't really know.

Cheers,
Wayne