Fastening down Wonderboard to floor joists

the best I could find with google...

If you are trying to fasten wonderboard directly to floor joists, then there is your problem. The reason that you can find no instructions on how to do it, is because you cannot do it. Wonderboard cannot bridge floor joists, so you must have and underlayment to support it. Then you fasten the wonderboard to the underlayment.

which is the best I could find with google...

which is the best I could find with google...

any thickness will bring the new section higher than the rest of the floor.

Please don't top post.

Underlayment thickness is determined by what you intend to put on it, spacing of the floor joists and material used for underlayment, including how it is installed.

the best I could find with google...

any thickness will bring the new section higher than the rest of the floor.

There are several things to consider for a floor tile installation as Robert indicated. Not the least of which is the potential for deflection or flex. I learned this the hard way once. I've done a few tile installations over wood sub-floors since that snafu and I've referred to this when I have.

adding any thickness will bring the new section higher than the rest of the floor.

I'm just getting tile put in. I have an older home, with wood laths that run diagonally across the floor joists, they are 5/8" thick. My tile guy installed 3/8" plywood over the wood laths, then a thinset ontop of the plywood, and then the wonderboard. Then used special screws to fasten the wonderboard to the joists.

Then the tile in a 'subway' pattern. Looks great.

samurai.

Sounds adequate, assuming the floor joists are spaced properly. Say 16" o.c. or close. You can check yourself using the L/360 criteria as prescribed at the web site I posted before. I doubt that you will have any problems. I'm not sure; what is a "subway" pattern? A staggered or offset joint, a basket weave pattern?

but adding any thickness will bring the new section higher than the rest = of the floor.

message news:4BLSi.1500$uE4.723@trnddc07...

Backerboard Screws=20

Thanks, there's no flexing in the floorboards. I'm just replacing =

but adding any thickness will bring the new section higher than the rest = of the floor.

Thanks Sam

PS - I'm using Media Player Version 9.00003354

I get sound. Since the file is a .wmv you should have no problems. Can you play other files with a .wmv extension? Maybe the audio codec in your machine is corrupted or some such filtering device (anti-virus, firewall, etc.) is stopping it.

Works fine for me. I an using Media Player 9.00.00.2980 running on Win98se with a 56k dialup modem. I chose the low bandwith version.

However, I should mention that it did not play at all the first time I tried. I got the same error that I have been getting everytime I tried to play an online video lately. But I had some problems with Windows last week, and removed a few "lost" files. I kept the download on my drive, so I just re-ran it, and after that it played great. I'd recommend reinstalling media player, it tends to get flakey when other programs are installed. You should not have to remove it, just run the install again. I'm curious, where did you get

I was surprised there were no skips in it. Usually when I play these things on a dialup connection they skip all the time.

Hope this helps

Alvin

Since my last reply...... Just for grins I tried the HIGH bandwith version on my 56K modem. It also worked fine. Same video, only larger, and it took longer to load.

Download it and try to play it. I use linux and it plays fine using linux's version of media player so you shouldn't have any problem.

message

Thanks, will try reinstalling. I'm using Win2000Prof. That's what came out when I ran the then-latest update from microsoft.

these

sound.

Thanks for the tip! I downloaded it, and no audio on version 9.0, but played fine with version 6.4.

the joists, if that's what underlayment is. They are in good shape.

If you do not understand the terminology you will have a tougher time asking questions and deciphering what is meant by the answers. Google 'construction glossary' and you'll find a good place to start to fill in the blanks.

Underlayment is a plywood (or approved equal) layer on top of the subfloor. In a typical tiling situation the house might have 3/4" plywood or OSB as the subfloor. The underlayment is meant to smooth out the surface in preparation for the tile. If your subfloor is strong enough you don't need an additional underlayment - you can bond the cement board directly to the subfloor.

I don't understand how you could have 2x6s as a subfloor unless your joists are spaced far greater than the typical 16". Tile installations live and die by how much the floor will deflect under load. If you subfloor or joist spacing is unusual the normal advice doesn't apply.

Post pictures on one of the free hosting sites and link to them in your next post.

You do realize you have an audio mixer that has volume setting for at least 4 inputs? I just installed a USB HDTV and had to push "wave" level to max. There is also a "volume" on the Tv screen, as well as the regular pc "speaker" volume too. They all interact.

-larry / dallas