Shed roof over porch

I have a 7'D x14'W concrete porch over which I would like to construct an almost flat roof (pitched about 1"/ft down the 7' depth.) The house wall is brick veneer. The second floor joists are 2x10 16" OC and extend out to a 2x!0 header to carry the mansard wall and form a 16" soffit covered with 3/4" ply.
2x8 joisting, fully supported with posts at the outer end, would do it but rather than drill into the brick and then bolt on a ledger on the brick and use joist hangers, I wondered about hanging the roof joists from the second floor lookouts (after removing the soffit), perhaps using simply a large-enough joist hanger (or two) with the nailing flanges bent flat, or some other piece of hardware that I've yet to discover.
Thoughts?
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
That would actually be a better solution than tagging on the brick veneer. I assume the mansard is covered in a roofing material like 3 tab shingles. Open the soffit and take the porch rafters all the way back to the stud wall if possible, even cutting them to bear on the double plate. This would allow a good flashing solution from the existing mansard to the new flat roof. It will probably require removing one or two courses of mansard shingles to insure a real good tie-in and a premium flat roof material.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

the mansard over the plywood sheathing. All courses interleaved with 15# paper all the way to the top. I can get flashing up under the first course to the first nailing line, which would be 10" plus a couple. I don't want to touch the shakes.
You understand that I'm talking about the new porch roof joists sitting directly beneath the lookout 2x10s...not beside them? The bricks reach as high as the top of the double plate in the first floor wall so it would be difficult to get to the top plate. Besides, the lookouts already sit on. and are attached to, the top plate and extend into the house to the next partition wall about 14' away.
I want the roof deck to end up just an inch below the drip edge on the mansard.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Why not go ahead and cut the existing roof back and join the new roof directly to it? Sounds like it would give you a little more headroom as well.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Feb 23, 7:33 am, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Gee, I guess there really is a lot wrong with the clarity of my first post and with the second as well. I asked about hanging joists from some lookout joists with appropriate hardware....do you know of such hardware?
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Just to clarify....the mansard is a fake. The real second floor wall is framed directly over the lower floor wall. The mansard studding is tapered 2x4s scabbed to the real wall studs at the top and with a bottom plate nailed to the second floor subfloor at the lookout header.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Nope, but you could probably use some really long joist hangers if you can find some. Really need to use 2x8s? I ask because it might be be easier to find a joist hanger long enough if you used 2x6s. Probably not code either but if you're not on the coast it's be ok.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Feb 23, 12:26 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Actually, the reason I was thinking 2x8 was that then I could taper the end that would fit up flush to the lookout joist at an angle to give me the proper roof slope. I'll have to sketch it up with actual sizes to see but I was thinking that hangers for 2x12 could be used...I just didn't want to miss something that some of the hardware manufactures might have conjured up for something like this. I just hate to start trying to set anchors in my bricks....the bricks are quite hard, I know how much Portland cement was added to the mortar, and I can see all sorts of grief coming from hammer drilling up so close to the top...and for what....so I can use some joist hangers on a ledger and be to code? If all else fails, I'll sketch it up and take it in to the building dept. guys and see what they say....I'll use an assumed name. The other option (and it's looking better all the time) is to use an insulated aluminum panel roof of the type used for manufactured sunrooms...light, strong, and easy to do. Thanks.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I agree about the brick, best left alone if you can finagle it :-)
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.