I am building a log sided home (stick built). On the interior I am using
matched pine so as to give the inside a log look. I am in a kind of weird
situation with some firecode sheetrock, a window header, and matched pine.
The problem is that I had put up firecode sheet rock for a wood stove right
near a window. I now realize that when I want to join the match pine atop
the window at the header and meet the sheet rock I have nothing to fasten
the matched pine to. See picture.
Can I put a piece of blocking on the left side of the header so I can nail
the pine to it? I am at the extreme limit for the sheetrock as far as fire
code goes. I know the headers for windows have to be the way they are.. but
to me this seems like I need to have an exception. I could take about a 3/4
of an inch of sheet rock away but it will look funky.
to that. Should have used more sheetrock to allow a better less visible
transition away from the window or perhaps do the whole wall in sheetrock
then put pine over the sheetrock leaving sheetrock exposed where the fire
code requires it.
I guess I'm lost.
Are you just wanting a way to nail the pine at the left side of
the window head? Most headers, or at least - headers used to be,
are made of solid dimension lumber, not I joists. Certainly you
can add whatever filler in the header web that you desire. It is
often required at the bearing ends of I joists.
You have some bigger issues coming IMHO. How are you planning to
deal with window trim? Are you going to have anything on top of
the drywall? Are you planning anything at the chimney (straighten
it up, hide it) ? Are you planning butt joints in vertical line
at window edges? What are you doing for ceiling?
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
IMHO that's not rustic, it's sloppy construction. It may look 'rustic'
today, but in six months you'll look at it and say "Why did I do
that?" And in two years, you'll rip it out, saying over and over
"Should have done it right the first time". <g>
I often frame headers the same way. 1 or 2 2x's oriented vertically,
with another 2x6 oriented flat ways on the bottom. The vertical 2 x's
are placed to the outside, to allow the assembly to be insulated after
the building is dried in. If this is what was done in your case, you
will have a space of 2". I'd suggest a few 2x4 blocks ripped to 2"
where you need backing. Then insulate that space. I prefer 2" rigid,
but fiberglass would be OK.
You've got a lot of work to do to tighten up your vapor barrier.
You gain nothing in terms of meeting clearance specifications by using
the sheetrock rather than the pine. They're both considered combustible.
You have a stick built wall. It's combustible whether you cover it with
pine, Sheetrock, or cement board. (Cement board is non-combustible, but
it would still transfer the heat to the framing.)
Check the stove and (stove pipe/chimney) specifications for clearance
values. You can usually significantly reduce the clearance to the wall
by installing a non-combustible panel spaced 1" out from the combustible
wall surface. Cement board or sheet metal are commonly used for this
along with 1" ceramic spacers. You want to leave gaps at the top and
bottom so air can circulate behind the panel.
Have your insurance company and building inspector approve your plan
before you continue. (Check your policy -- you're often not covered if
you don't declare the stove.) If you don't have a building inspector,
try the fire department. This is something you don't want to screw up.
I have done the above and was told to have sheet rock (firecode) on the
wall. It has a large sheet metal plate with the 1" spacers etc. Fire code
requires no pine behind the metal plate. Must have 18" of clearance to any
combustible surface for uninsulated pipe. 3" of clearance to combustible
material with insulated pipe. Yes I talked to all the people you mentioned
and followed the code. That is why I am with the sheetrock. I hate the
sheet rock but I wanted to be within the limits of the fire codes.
1. Aim your camera down lower (towards the floor) and reshoot your
2. I'd guess from that picture what you have won't meet code, but I
could be wrong. I can't really see where the stove is.
3. Left side? The left side of the sheetrock, and the heater don't
seem visible in your image.
4. Looks like all wood above the window, so why not use it? Or is the
darker piece behind the pastic vapor barrier set in some? If yes, then
use shim pieces to bring it out flush. Maybe a 2x4 sideways (if it
fits), or just rip down a 2x4 piece of scrap in your table saw?
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